Then grow a thicker skin (pun intended). However, you give very little info or descriptions of your problem. Is the Switch turning off? Is it just very warm? Does the fan sound like raving squirrels?
Hardware My Switch Overheats Like SHIT
- Thread starter MarzDaindigo
- Start date
- Views 10,582
- Replies 34
Have you been keeping your switch in places with no air flow (closets,drawers and boxes), is the vents dusty? If so clean them.
@Indigo Marz I would suggest taking it out of the leather case as that will definitely help some with heat dispersion.
And I would say if it has never heated up like this before but is now doing so after using CFW then that would be the most likely culprit. Otherwise it’s just good old wear and tear and may just need some TLC.
And I would say if it has never heated up like this before but is now doing so after using CFW then that would be the most likely culprit. Otherwise it’s just good old wear and tear and may just need some TLC.
Yea this is the most ive used it and it could be the case too cuz it has never shut off on me like its been doing. Could be cfw seeing as im playing more demanding games.
It sounds like a manufacturing issue. I honestly suggest either removing the hacks and returning it or sending it under it's warranty. Or opening it up yourself and seeing if you can figure out what's wrong with the fan
I have two Switches and neither of them get very hot
I have two Switches and neither of them get very hot
If they are like the 3ds, they strip so easy, people don't understand. It is then a bitch to drill them out.
Thanks a million....
Now I just want need some developers willing to create a display calibration software for the Switch's panel, mine has a bluish tint which was not a problem up until now since I recently got my desktop monitor and laptop displays all calibrated.
Edit:
I don't like the way the SOC is covered by a protective aluminum plate/shim before making contact the the actual heatsink having go through thermal paste twice, would have been much better if that aluminum plate/shim soldered to SOC for maximum heat transfer efficiency to the heatsink; this reminds me of the IHS on the PS3 and older AMD CPU's.
Once I man up a bit and get some more tools to work on such a small board, I think I'll go through with the re-pasting process; I'm thinking of using IC Diamond between the SOC and shim since I'd assuming the pressure is low and Kryonaut/GC Extreme from the shim to the heatsink.
Now I just want need some developers willing to create a display calibration software for the Switch's panel, mine has a bluish tint which was not a problem up until now since I recently got my desktop monitor and laptop displays all calibrated.
Edit:
I don't like the way the SOC is covered by a protective aluminum plate/shim before making contact the the actual heatsink having go through thermal paste twice, would have been much better if that aluminum plate/shim soldered to SOC for maximum heat transfer efficiency to the heatsink; this reminds me of the IHS on the PS3 and older AMD CPU's.
Once I man up a bit and get some more tools to work on such a small board, I think I'll go through with the re-pasting process; I'm thinking of using IC Diamond between the SOC and shim since I'd assuming the pressure is low and Kryonaut/GC Extreme from the shim to the heatsink.
Last edited by Nemix77,
I just removed the copper + ally shim/cover all togeather and have heat sink direct on soc, was a bit unsure of its purpose, shielding maybe? Ive noticed nil effect anyway
1- When did you buy the console and was it new?
2- Whats your current average air temps? (remember inside house can be a lot higher than outside as my room is super hot and outside is kinda good today).
3- Does the console heat up a lot portable?
4- Is the fan speed\noise a lot while portable?
5- If you also have a laser thermometer play a bit a demanding game like Zelda on the forest part when its as hot as you think its overheating try reading on the air cooling fins and try getting the highest value (mine was 40 something Cº with air temp at like 25Cº maybe as I can't remember, now its summer and much hotter I don't know what temps it could achieve).
My console doesnt heat up a lot and its nearly silent, just spins a bit higher from time to time, but not something much loud though I never tried the dock yet as its when the fans will be spinning higher because of higher clocks producing more heat. I find my tablet Nvidia Shield Tablet a lot hotter to the touch than the Switch.
The Switch should be slightly warm to the touch as it has a bigger cooler and then has the backplate to spread the heat evenly across the whole Switch so that you can't really feel the hotter part of the cooler.
ps: My friend's console was super loud on the dock and the console kinda broke like 2 days after buying it brand new and he barely played, it started making a huge loud buzz sound from the speakers no matter if it was portable or docked and even if we mute the speakers it made them at the same volume, wasnt even related to volume (its on youtube something similar), so I'm thinking if its super hot its probably defective or the thermal compound was badly applied, but if you would live in a hot place I guess the console could be hot and loud.
The shim is copper and yeah I don't see why they had the stupid idea of adding even 1 more heat transfer point to decrease cooling efficiency as nothing is 100% in heat transfer...
You can just remove the copper shim and use simply Artic MX-4 and this will make it better.
If you want to go wild you can also go with liquid metal without the copper shim as someone here did it and tested and re-open the console a few days after and all was good, the base of the cooler which actually look like aluminum in fact its not as the the other user reported liquid metal doesnt destroy the Switch cooler which if it was aluminum would be pretty bad in just a few hours maybe. Anyway I don't recommend Liquid Metal as the console is portable will take a lot of shaking and might spill a bit on surrounding components, but if someone does, USE the protective product on the surrounding components so if it spills it can't short.
My recommendation is just using Artic MX-4 with direct touch to the cooler with the copper shim removed (its a good thermal paste 100% safe and no curing time needed).
2- Whats your current average air temps? (remember inside house can be a lot higher than outside as my room is super hot and outside is kinda good today).
3- Does the console heat up a lot portable?
4- Is the fan speed\noise a lot while portable?
5- If you also have a laser thermometer play a bit a demanding game like Zelda on the forest part when its as hot as you think its overheating try reading on the air cooling fins and try getting the highest value (mine was 40 something Cº with air temp at like 25Cº maybe as I can't remember, now its summer and much hotter I don't know what temps it could achieve).
My console doesnt heat up a lot and its nearly silent, just spins a bit higher from time to time, but not something much loud though I never tried the dock yet as its when the fans will be spinning higher because of higher clocks producing more heat. I find my tablet Nvidia Shield Tablet a lot hotter to the touch than the Switch.
The Switch should be slightly warm to the touch as it has a bigger cooler and then has the backplate to spread the heat evenly across the whole Switch so that you can't really feel the hotter part of the cooler.
ps: My friend's console was super loud on the dock and the console kinda broke like 2 days after buying it brand new and he barely played, it started making a huge loud buzz sound from the speakers no matter if it was portable or docked and even if we mute the speakers it made them at the same volume, wasnt even related to volume (its on youtube something similar), so I'm thinking if its super hot its probably defective or the thermal compound was badly applied, but if you would live in a hot place I guess the console could be hot and loud.
Hope they add white balance of the LCD on the atmosphere at some point in time as I wanted to make the white more white adding blue on mine. I also can't wait to have temperature readings from the CFW, that's one of the things I can't wait for, hope they ever add that to the CFW's...
The shim is copper and yeah I don't see why they had the stupid idea of adding even 1 more heat transfer point to decrease cooling efficiency as nothing is 100% in heat transfer...
You can just remove the copper shim and use simply Artic MX-4 and this will make it better.
If you want to go wild you can also go with liquid metal without the copper shim as someone here did it and tested and re-open the console a few days after and all was good, the base of the cooler which actually look like aluminum in fact its not as the the other user reported liquid metal doesnt destroy the Switch cooler which if it was aluminum would be pretty bad in just a few hours maybe. Anyway I don't recommend Liquid Metal as the console is portable will take a lot of shaking and might spill a bit on surrounding components, but if someone does, USE the protective product on the surrounding components so if it spills it can't short.
My recommendation is just using Artic MX-4 with direct touch to the cooler with the copper shim removed (its a good thermal paste 100% safe and no curing time needed).
Last edited by guily6669,
I figured it out, it was my leather case that made it so hot (trapping the heat in). After i took it off and let it cool down i played again without it and it was regular warm. The weird thing is i never had that problem even with the case on before playing a taxing game so it definitely was a surprise. Thanks for the help everyone
Similar threads
- No one is chatting at the moment.
-
-
@
Sonic Angel Knight:
Or, I also heard that if you use flash memory, it can act as more "RAM" at least windows tell me when I stick a flash drive into it. -
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
@
K3Nv2:
I can think of the design teams process another joystick and no audio or a joystick and mono audio -
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
