M92T36 or BQ24193

Discussion in 'Switch - Console, Accessories & Hardware' started by nerirififi, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Test for continuity from one side to the other of the choke
     
  2. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    And also that choke doesn't have lines shorted to each-other.
     
  3. solac

    solac Member

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    Sorry for the late reply been kinda busy these days. Hmmm let me see if i understand this correctly. So all same number chokes should have continuity, and they are not suppose to have continuity to other chokes with different numbers (e.g.choke 1 continuity to choke 1). Pintglass was wondering if your's had docking issues? seems to me that we have the same issues from the broken charge port to a shorted P13USB. I haven't tested the switch with the dock.
     
    Last edited by solac, Sep 21, 2019
  4. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Have you not got a dock to test it in, it may work as it is.
     
  5. solac

    solac Member

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    I don't have a dock, il try to borrow one and test it out. I will update soon as i tested it.:)

    Was i correct on how to check continuity with the common chokes?
     
    Last edited by solac, Sep 21, 2019
  6. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Each choke has 2 lines in it check that you have continuity on each line from one side to the other. Imagine that your just testing a piece of wire as that's all they really are.
     
  7. paraskevas

    paraskevas Member

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    Hey guys, I'm trying to troubleshoot a non-working switch I got.

    Switch seems to charge but it doesn't boot. I also has AutoRCM installed. The Switch died after plugging it into a dodgy USB port of a PC.

    Battery voltage is 3.8V without the charger and 4.0V plugged into Nintendo charger.

    Here are my findings after reading the thread:
    1) Pin 5 on M92T36 has 3.3V (meter shows 3.28V) and isn't shorted to ground. Pin has 0V when I plug in the battery, changes to 3.3V when I plug the charger and then stays at 3.3V even if I remove the charger.

    2) I could not find any capacitors that are shorted near M92T36, BQ24193 or P13USB. I could only find some shorted capacitors. I've marked them on the attached photo.

    The Switch seems to make a really high pitched noise when plugged to the charger. I couldn't hear any noise (though the case) on my working Switch.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    There not capacitors they are inductor's

    Have you tried to connect the switch to a pc after you've inserted the charger, does the pc recognise it.
     
  9. paraskevas

    paraskevas Member

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    No, it doesn't make any sound. I've tried with my working Switch to be sure drivers etc work. I have tried connecting it without the eMMC, will it show up as RCM without it?

    Edit:
    I've found this wiki entry: https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Testpads

    Measuring across Cluster B 6 and 4 gives me -4.0V. Measuring across 6 and 5 I get -4.5V. Not sure why I get negative voltages (black probe is on 6 which is ground).
     
    Last edited by paraskevas, Sep 22, 2019
  10. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Do you get the same readings on the pins of m92T36, are the readings with a charger plugged in.
    Are you sure you've not got a short on the 3v3 rail
     
    Last edited by Pintglass, Sep 22, 2019
  11. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Inductors can make that sound, Video chip can go bad common situation with non original docks. Does it load hekate?
     
    Last edited by Agilato, Sep 22, 2019
  12. fnwhatnow

    fnwhatnow Member

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    Sep 24, 2019
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    Guys,

    I have a switch that will boot hektate only, it also doesn't seem to want to fast charge.

    When I plug in the charger I get nothing on the screen, no power indication.

    I tested the continuity across the caps by the M92T36, BQ24193 and P13USB, no issues.

    Because the last unit I repaired had a P13USB issue, I just went ahead and replaced it as I had ordered 2.

    I pulled the board out and plugged in a battery and a USB-C through a USB tester. I get .48 amps at 5volts being pulled.

    Because everything checked out good and I was stumped I tossed it into RCM mode and was able to boot to hektate!

    It came up and the screen works, everything looks good.

    No clue what this is now, is it a hardware problem or a firmware issue?

    Thanks!
     
  13. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    What charger are you using?
     
  14. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    First try briccmii tool.
    I have water damaged switch that behaves exactly same way... my guess problem around BQ chip... compare small elements around it....
     
  15. paraskevas

    paraskevas Member

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    I do get the same readings. The readings are with a charger and no battery connected. I don't have a short in the 3.3V rail!

    It doesn't load anything. PC doesn't recognize it at all. It only charges at .45A (and then drops when I presume the battery is full)
     
  16. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Check chokes right before Video Chip, you should be able to read continuity on each line.
     
  17. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Are you using an original nintendo charger, check to see if you have a short on the usb D+ and D- lines
     
    Agilato likes this.
  18. paraskevas

    paraskevas Member

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    I can read continuity on each choke (on opposite pins)

    Yes. Only original charger and official cable (from Pro Con) when connecting to PC. No short there. I also plugged the cable and confirmed continuity from the male end (USB A) to the board test pads
     
  19. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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    Check that you've got continuity on the choke just above the usb port on the D+ D- lines, if you've tested for continuity up to the usb test points under the audio chip then its fine.
     
  20. paraskevas

    paraskevas Member

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    Sep 18, 2019
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    What chokes are you referring to?
     
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