Hacking Hardware HWfly-shaped Picofly boards start shipping in China

lightninjay

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Welp turns out it works exactly like that.
View attachment 373937
I wired up d+ and -. held the button on the pico, pressed power and boom. I can write to the rp2040 over the switches usb c port.
This is huge! now if the chip is blank, no button will need to be held. It should just come up on windows.
View attachment 373938
I'm not quite crazy enough to try it, but I wonder if a RP2040-Zero were wired up in this manner (just running the USB Dat+ and Dat- pads that are exposed after removing the USB-C connector to the same points) if it would work the same. Theoretically it should, as it's really just the RP2040 at the core.
 
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Modzvilleusa

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I'm not quite crazy enough to try it, but I wonder if a RP2040-Zero were wired up in this manner (just running the USB Dat+ and Dat- pads that are exposed after removing the USB-C connector to the same points) if it would work the same. Theoretically it should, as it's really just the RP2040 at the core
Yeah I don't see why that wouldn't work. if it's not blank you'll need to sort something out for the button that you likely removed
 

QuiTim

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I'm not quite crazy enough to try it, but I wonder if a RP2040-Zero were wired up in this manner (just running the USB Dat+ and Dat- pads that are exposed after removing the USB-C connector to the same points) if it would work the same. Theoretically it should, as it's really just the RP2040 at the core.
I think @abal1000x is up for this :D
 
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Nephiel

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Yeah I don't see why that wouldn't work. if it's not blank you'll need to sort something out for the button that you likely removed
A magnetic reed switch would allow using a magnet to trigger it without opening the console.

Still, I'd rather play it safe. Is there any chance both the Switch and the Pico might attempt to drive the USB port at the same time? If so, this sounds like trouble.
 

QuiTim

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How could you know i am considering to try it. :lol:

The problem is how to switch it to the bootmode.
Try to solve it programatically.
We could wire one of these all the way up to game card slot or vent grill, fix it in place with some glue/solder mask and then use a pin to push it when needed.
 

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Taquitos

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I got the lite version too,
if the chip is faulty, are there any chances to still salvage my console as long as the installation is well done? I only need to remove the chip from the flex cables, right ? :unsure:

I got this Lite cheap but I still don't want to do anything too reckless, haha, nor make anyone who might install this chip feel bad because whooops, it's faulty and now your Lite won't turn on!

Also, it seems the chips are acessible on Aliexpress now on the hwfly store so there's no need for an agent any longer.

How is it possible for chip variants to burn consoles. It doesnt make lot of sense.

I'm confused too since I read they are all the same chip, just "arranged" differently to better fit the console. The OLED chip can work on the Lite just fine after all.
 
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Modzvilleusa

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We could wire one of these all the way up to game card slot or vent grill, fix it in place with some glue/solder mask and then use a pin to push it when needed.
What about wiring the button to vol + or -?
I spammed that button on the pico after the console booted and it didn't seem to have any effect.

Also, does anyone know where the D+ and D- points are on a lite?
 

QuiTim

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What about wiring the button to vol + or -?
I spammed that button on the pico after the console booted and it didn't seem to have any effect.

Also, does anyone know where the D+ and D- points are on a lite?
To be honest i don't know. Would we need to press the button while switch is off to enter storage mode in pico?
If this is the case than pressing the vol buttons during switch boot will for sure trigger something else on switch aswell but it might not interfere.
Damn, now i'm getting curious.... I have to get my hands on another switch cuz if I mess up mine my kid would kill me :D
 

abal1000x

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What about wiring the button to vol + or -?
I spammed that button on the pico after the console booted and it didn't seem to have any effect.

Also, does anyone know where the D+ and D- points are on a lite?
d+-.png


Only tracking from https://balika011.hu/switch/lite/ compared to erista that should be the point.
Don't know whether its correct or not.
Post automatically merged:

What about wiring the button to vol + or -?
I spammed that button on the pico after the console booted and it didn't seem to have any effect.

Also, does anyone know where the D+ and D- points are on a lite?
According this also
EEIOL_2015FEB09_INT_TA_01Fig7.gif

image-asset.png
 
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Modzvilleusa

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View attachment 373964

Only tracking from https://balika011.hu/switch/lite/ compared to erista that should be the point.
Don't know whether its correct or not.
Post automatically merged:


According this also
View attachment 373965

View attachment 373964

Only tracking from https://balika011.hu/switch/lite/ compared to erista that should be the point.
Don't know whether its correct or not.
Post automatically merged:


According this also
View attachment 373965
fantastic thanks! Will test on a lite asap and report back. couldn't get it figured out on an oled. v1 worked fine though.
 

Nephiel

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We could wire one of these all the way up to game card slot or vent grill, fix it in place with some glue/solder mask and then use a pin to push it when needed.
A magnetic reed switch would allow using a magnet to trigger it without opening the console.
However, if picofly firmware can now be updated from the SDcard by using picofly toolbox, why would anyone want to wire the USB like this?

(I mean, other than doing it for kicks just because it can be done, which is a perfectly valid reason I totally get)
 
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QuiTim

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However, if picofly firmware can now be updated from the SDcard by using picofly toolbox, why would anyone want to wire the USB like this?

(I mean, other than doing it for kicks just because it can be done, which is a perfectly valid reason I totally get)
I would do it exactly for that, just so see if it can be done, and I guess you are right there is no other "sane" reason :D
Otherwise I don't really plan to update any pico in the foreseeable future if no critical issue is reported in the meantime
 
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abal1000x

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However, if picofly firmware can now be updated from the SDcard by using picofly toolbox, why would anyone want to wire the USB like this?

(I mean, other than doing it for kicks just because it can be done, which is a perfectly valid reason I totally get)
If using the usb c we could get the serial monitor then its very useful for firmware developer.
 
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Modzvilleusa

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However, if picofly firmware can now be updated from the SDcard by using picofly toolbox, why would anyone want to wire the USB like this?

(I mean, other than doing it for kicks just because it can be done, which is a perfectly valid reason I totally get)
I think it's massive. installers can test then blank out the chip. Users could then plug it into usb on their end and flash it.
 

Modzvilleusa

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Phantomas77

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I think it's massive. installers can test then blank out the chip. Users could then plug it into usb on their end and flash it.
Have you tried to power on a switch with a blank Pico FW? What happens? This would mean as well that the Pico will be flashed when the OFW is loaded, won't there be a signal interference between both USB?

Be careful there, if you don't use a pulldown resistor while doing MOSFET install, it could get your SoC fkdup hard since there will be no FW to pulldown the signal on the gate.
 

Modzvilleusa

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Have you tried to power on a switch with a blank Pico FW? What happens? This would mean as well that the Pico will be flashed when the OFW is loaded, won't there be a signal interference between both USB?

Be careful there, if you don't use a pulldown resistor while doing MOSFET install, it could get your SoC fkdup hard since there will be no FW to pulldown the signal on the gate.
When you run the nuke.uf2 to blank the chip, you plug it in via ubs c with the console off and it's instantly detected, console doesn't seem to turn itself on. Dragged over the picofly.uf2 it flashes then the console turns itself on. Power down, turn it back on and the chip trains / boots.
I've wired the boot button to vol+.
plugged into usb c, hold vol+ and press power. pico becomes mountable. console doesn't turn on until you flash the uf2.

as for the mofsets, that's good to know but I always use a flex cable. Manually wiring those mofsets is way more work than it's worth imo.

1685234994280.png

1685235011903.png

Post automatically merged:

I'm not quite crazy enough to try it, but I wonder if a RP2040-Zero were wired up in this manner (just running the USB Dat+ and Dat- pads that are exposed after removing the USB-C connector to the same points) if it would work the same. Theoretically it should, as it's really just the RP2040 at the core.
Ok last update on do on this here as it's pretty off topic. Might deserve it's own thread eventually.
A buddy of mine said he tried this and it does indeed work.
In my testing, I've been wiring boot to vol+ and haven't noticed any negative effects.
1685311978989.png
 
Last edited by Modzvilleusa,

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