Gaming Getting an excellent Desktop, Need serious help

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I am not sold on the graphics myself; sure it will be an awesome card but I can not help but feel you could shave some money off there and not lose much, if anything, in the performance world. On the other hand unless it is proper CAD workstation time I tend not to go for graphics that expensive (I would argue it is expensive for the sake of being expensive) which coupled with graphics largely being the most easily upgraded internal device.
Just looking down the graphics from the same company:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814130508
Probably will overclock into similar regions and is about $200 cheaper.

Case: motherboard is ATX so obviously an ATX supporting case is needed, everything else just deals with amount of drives you want to stick in there.
Alas we are in the high end of computing/physics now so cooling becomes a problem (in your basic desktop it is not much of a concern and a case is a case) and as you are going with air cooling some case fans are a good idea.
On the flip side I see the odd plastic sided case and I hear reports of electrical interference but nothing major which given they are often the domain of those who whine about anything and everything I am not so sure.

Solid state: most people who spring for drives like the ones on your list will stick them in a RAID and use it for stuff that requires speed. As you might expect running an OS on top of that will mean sometimes the disc is used for the OS and other times for the speed requiring software leading to lots of "random" reads which are slow in electromechanical drives.
Long story short forget about it and especially if RAID is not your thing. If you want to test it out buy a good CF card and an adapter as you will get a similar feel for it.
Speaking of the drives seedvt is right on and the "slow" part comes largely from them being 7200RPM (10000 RPM drives have been around in normal computer circles for a few years now) although they are significantly smaller in capacity and frankly I do not see the need.

Keyboard and mouse: never used the ones you link but $30 for both does not seem right (especially wireless). You are using the keyboard and mouse every time you are on the machine and for most it matters more than what is under the hood so to speak.

Cooler: not sure about the stock i7 coolers so I will shut up.

ram: I say stick with the 4 lots of 2 gig ram although as Joe88 says triple channel is called for, 4 gigs sticks do exist ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820220422 note that this is server ram and technically of lower spec than what you were looking at) even 8 gigs ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820609486 again I am looking at server ram and as you can see the price point is more than your entire setup which as others has said is already ridiculous). You do not appear to want to upgrade this any time soon and frankly 8 gigs is a ridiculous amount of ram for most things (I struggle to hit 2 unless I am purposely trying to get that high or something memory leaks).

DVD drive is a DVD drive (they messed up their copying and pasting of specs by the way) unless you have to argue otherwise in which case you can already pick a good one out. LightScribe does not do anything for me (have you seen how much discs cost?) but that is nothing to cry over.

@Vidboy10 XP is sadly directX9 only for whatever reason, not to mention I ran it on my 7900GS (8XXX was the first Nvidia series to support DX10).
 
Thanks FAST6191,

Video card: The one you linked is the same one that I linked. You probably were confused with the $684.98 which is the price of the video card & the motherboard TOGETHER

Case: so as long as ATX is supported I can pick whatever case I want? size doesnt matter? besides the cooler that I picked out, I need fans for the case as well? Can you link me to those?

Solid State: I think I'll just skip that. I honestly dont see why I need that. (well, I dont fully understand RAID so yeah). I might have that in the future or something..

Keyboard and mouse: Those wireless ones are too good to be true? or expensive?

RAM: Ah, here they are.. so they are server based huh.. so am I better off with 4 lot of 2GB, or 2x4GB (which does not have hig performance as the others?) or the 2x3GB for triple channel?

Motherboard: Thinking of changing motherboards, any recommendations?
 
Sorry was doing that on autopilot somewhat. Annoying as I tried to make special effort in noticing/remembering the "combined price" when I was prattling on.

Case: Pretty much. If the case has fan support it will probably come with a few (I usually stick one on the hard drives, one on the air intake (it is usually found over the graphics card), one for exhaust and the rest wherever).
You can buy aftermarket ones as they are a standard size, shape, power connector and the like (just differences in LED colours, motor type, noise produced, speed control method, plastic colour....)
As you asked though:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList....amp;x=0&y=0
Your case may also come with a large fan on top. Note these little fans courtesy of basic physics can make some fairly high pitched noise which many find far more audible so know you probably do not have to go all out on these.

You did not ask but RAID; redundant array of inexpensive discs. It is a way making multiple discs appear as one "virtual" disc which means speed increases and/or redundancy (able to rebuild data if it corrupts) depending on the "level" you use. Some more http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/R/RAID.html and just about everywhere you care to search.

RAM: I think a quick guide to ram is in order.
Many things to look for in ram beyond the obvious size and size per stick. "Server ram" is somewhat of a misnomer (sever here refers to "enterprise class" server rather than machine that pipes out data to other machines) but it is expensive as anything as it usually comes with warranties beyond anything we see in consumer world (hardware engineers will often be dispatched to your place to fix it sort of thing), can take serious punishment and unless we are building silly machines like this it is usually far faster/packed with fun features. I suggest you avoid server grade stuff as it is way over engineered for consumer purposes, I really only went there as I knew I would find an example for you.

Ram timings- ram is not instantaneous and it often takes several cycles to get "into position" as it were and pipe back the data after a request. "Tighter" timings reflect how quickly it gets into these states/does things and cheap ram often sacrifices these in these timings to get there, an explanation http://www.tweakers.fr/timings.html
It should be noted overclockers sometimes drop these timings to allow it to clock faster and sometimes add extra cooling and voltage to try and turn slow rated ram quick. Know that if you find yourself looking at old ram the timings may be quicker (it is tied to the DDR vs DDR2 vs DDR3 thing) but for reasons that should become apparent it is not much of a problem. At this stage in the game I would not get too hung up on timings as they are all roughly the same but in a year or so when all this is past technology start looking.

Clock speed: in some ways it does not really exist with the i7 but in days of old (pre i7) the frontside bus was part of the CPU clock and part of the RAM clock. Originally the CPU and the RAM had the same clock but "unlinked mode" came about (you probably could still run linked on most boards if you wanted though) so they could vary. This is somewhat academic though but just know that the frequency and timings determine the overall speed of the ram.
Your motherboard needs to support the ram running in it and while most will allow you to "underclock" ram you are just burning money if you do (some overclockers will do this as underclocked ram can be "overclocked" for timings as mentioned), likewise you can stick slow ram in a "fast" board (high end ram is really expensive when it first comes out and may not confer a great advantage) but the real problem comes if you mix ram rated for different speeds/timings (upgrades being where this usually crops up) or different access methods (detailed below).

DDR and double/triple channel- modern ram comes in DDR, DDR2 and DDR3 (I will not look at the far older stuff right now as it does not apply, DDR is pretty much gone too). Basics http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/167
It is not essential to use triple channel but we are building high end machines today and games do appreciate it. This page explains is better than I am willing to type out right now:
http://www.guru3d.com/article/g-skill-ddr3...memory-review/2
Long story short it is theoretically faster, how much depends more on the application and what you are doing:
http://www.insidehw.com/Reviews/Memory/Int...emory-Mode.html
If you understood RAID up there it shares some conceptual similarities.

Most other things are for really high end work (ECC ram and what have you) but long story short match your ram to your board and the other ram it is playing with at the time; again most boards will "underclock" ram to suit but unless you like wasting money for no reason then read up.

Motherboard: that one looked OK, I will do some searching though to see if I can find something else and if I do I will edit this or include it in another reply.

I probably missed something but hopefully I did not.
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188049
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188048
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188039
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813131371
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813131352

These are 5 motherboards that I think are good. If you cant find anything interesting, can you comment on these?

Thanks for info, I'll get back on this thread after some more research
Meanwhile, hope I get more comments, every comment helps
smile.gif


oh and btw.. now i'm considering the solidstate for the OS ..
 
All links are socket type is LGA 1366 your processor is LGA 1156 and for some reason that I should have caught before it ever got near this stage so is your "current" motherboard/first link (again computer parts buying- do not do it on autopilot or you will miss stuff like this).

Choices:
New board- no strong feelings for a new processor so I went through the boards as well.
No board with LGA 1156 support on newegg that I rate.

new processor (probably easier and more long term support) with LGA 1366
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16819115202
Nominally slower 2.66 vs 2.8 GHz, nominally cheaper. Will probably OC to similar speeds on air and will almost certainly be able to bump the speed 5% to match.

I will then look at the motherboards again. Dropping the processor "down" saved you $20

Round 1
First link is your current choice, I like the look of it on the face of it, makes it into next round.
EVGA 141-BL-E757-TR
----
Second - far more expensive for no real gain (no need for 3x PCIe slots). Goes no further.
ASUS Rampage II Extreme LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
----
Third- Nice ram support, a bit low on USB ports (only 6) and microATX (should fit in an ATX case though). Included just to round things out.
ASUS Rampage II GENE
----
Fourth- Nominally more expensive but not enough to disqualify it. Good memory, good network, good memory- Definite contender.
EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1
----
Fifth- PCIe slots up the price beyond what is worth it. Dual network is nice though. Does not make it through.
EVGA 141-BL-E760-A1


Round 2
EVGA 141-BL-E757-TR vs ASUS Rampage II GENE vs EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1

ASUS Rampage II GENE is immediately outclassed and goes.

EVGA 141-BL-E757-TR and EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 are more or less the same board but with a few different ports meaning no notable differences between CPU support, ram support/speeds or anything like that.

The EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 has pata/IDE ports (just 1) from which you can hang a few old drives (worth having I find) vs none on the other. Adapters/caddies are easy enough to come by and will sort for 99% of problems (alas gbatemp types fall in the 1% with things like the original xbox) and you can always get a PCI IDE controller for the price of a decent pizza.

9 SATA ports vs 6 (your setup has 3 at present (two hard drives and a DVD) so this is probably redundant).

The EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 has a single firewire but it is onboard vs the other board which has two sockets for it (no mention about onboard sockets for the EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 and I will leave that to a search (newegg is not the best for specs). Frankly 1 is enough but I will leave this to you.

Same USB.

Dual lan for the EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 which is nice to have (useful for sticking wayward devices- laptops, consoles, your router in when playing network tweaking guy.

The EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 looks better on paper but for $50 I would expect it to be.
It comes down purely to extra features (more sata ports, pata/IDE, firewire already wired in to back, dual LAN) which are nothing you will miss and nothing a PCI card could not fix or do better.
Approximately the same combo deals.

Oh and I got sensible and found some ram (works for either board):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820145269

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820145253
 
That was VERY helpful FAST6191, thank you so much. I've decided on the $50+ extra motherboard

Here is what I have right now,

- CPU/Processor & Memory Combo:
Price of the Combo: $474.98
- CPU/Processor:
Intel Core i7-920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366
Price without combo: $299.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16819115202

- Memory:
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Price without combo: $209.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820145253


- Hard Drive:
2 x 1.5 TB Seagate Hard Drive - 7200 RPM
Price: 2 x $119.99 = $239.98
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822148337


- Video Card & Motherboard Combo:
Price of the Combo: $759.98 + Free Batman Game

- Video Card:
GeForce GTX 295 1792MB DDR3 PCI
Price without combo: $519.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814130508

- Motherboard:
EVGA E758-A1 3-Way SLI (x16/x16/x8) LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
Price without combo: $289.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188049


- CPU Cooler:
COOLER MASTER Intel Core i7 compatible V8
Price: $59.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16835103055

- Power Supply:
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
Price: $119.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817139006



--------------------------------

I am missing 4 things
- A computer case
- A Monitor
- Keyboard & Mouse
- DVD Burner (Maybe 2 of them)

But I'm getting these from my country. No need to buy online
I'm not missing anything else am I?

--------------------------------

The total price is $1655. Is there anywhere I can shave off some money?
I'm looking at the CPU cooler, the power supply, and the RAM.
The problem is, I dont know what other alternatives for these I have. (I do like how the CPU cooler looks though)

Any suggestions regarding those three? Any comments to the overall components? Also, judging from all of that, 750w power supply is enough? 850w is $20 more expensive would you recommend that? or something totally different?


Thanks again
smile.gif
 
omfg... Such detailed posts. Awesome ness. And Seagate is good... 5 years warranty I think... It is nice.

The 7200.11 series of Seagate has had a firmware bug... So not too sure about getting it yet. It might be fixed, but I think it would be better to get something else like a Western Digital Caviar or a 7200.12 series from Seagate.
 
well, from this site,
http://www.harddrivebenchmark.net/
I saw that this seagate model has good benchmarking, and has the best rating compared to other drives on newegg

WD Caviar has worse benchmarking, and some other drives are just not worth the money (150+ each)
7200.12 model is 1TB, which i dont want, and doesnt has worse benchmarking..


Anyways, when it comes down to WDC vs SG, apparently seagate is better, i donno about this firmware bug.. Now I'm not sure which I should pick

WDC and SG both have the same price..

Edit:
Also, the WDC doesnt state the RPM in its description. Is it 7200?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136351
 
honestly on the hard drive bit. i'd rather much go 3 x 1tb or even 6 x 500gb. having a hard drive fail is bad enough but 1.5tb worth of data? my 1tb recently just crashed. nearly had a heart attack.
 
Just a suggestion but if you are going to make this PC a "gaming rig" you might as well get a gaming mouse such as a Microsoft Sidewinder or a Razer Diamond Back. For me the keyboard isn't as important as the mouse for gaming.
 
@.Radiant: well i dont think its will fill up to begin with. But in any case, i'm on a budget, I dont wanna spend more money

@pizzahutmaster (yum.. i'm hungry now..)
it's gonna be for .. well.. everything..
keyboard and mouse is a secondary thing for now.. My main priority is getting the essentials now. I'll probably get something like that when its time for it
 
the only place where i think you can save some serious buck is your gfx card, you wont lose barely if any quality if you went with a dual $100 gfx card setup instead of one $500, and before you purchase all your components, make sure you go over it with the person whos gonna assemble your pc. as far as ram latency, youll see a few numbers seperated with a dash like 7-7-9-11 or something, i believe the last number is your latency of the ram, which is more important in performance than how many gb it is, definetly something you want to look into. as far as mobo/case fitting, if youre getting atx mobo you need atx case, make sure your mobo has the pci express x16 slot/slots required for your gfx card/cards, make sure your processor LGA matches up with your mobo LGA, that it has enough memory slots depending on how many you buy and once again that it matches up DDR3 memory goes into DDR3 memory slots on mobo, think about how many regular PCI slot you need for stuff like a tv in pc thing or a wifi wireless pci card unless youre using wired or usb wifi connection. find out what kind of power connection your mobo/gfx(as the better performance gfx cards require additional power)/how many hard drives/dvd drives youll have, and make sure your power supply has the neccesary connections for these components, avoid having too many power connections which you wont use as its a hassle to shove them in the case unused. avoid the old large hard drive and dvd drive connections, make sure all your hdd's and dvd drives use sata 3.0 and that your mobo has enough sata 3.0 connections to support them(once again avoid having excess power supply cables you wont use like the large old cables used for hdds and dvd drives back in the day). figure out if you mobo has a sound card built in(most do,newegg will say under specs)if not get one and make sure you have the necessary pci slot. other then all that.....just figure out how many usb slots you need and if you need a firewire slot....also a helpful item i put into my machine is one of those internal card readers ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820223109 ) quite helpful for any sd/sdhc/mmc/pro duo/whateverthefuckkindamemorycard. also, for simple pc stuff like keyboard, mouse, monitor, find what you want than froogle.com the item to find the best price on it, dont bother on other pc stuff like cpu,gfx...as newegg is the place. well...good luck, and yea i used to lurk around maxconsole back in the day
 
You said you wanted the more expensive board yet your link is for the original one, here is the link for the more expensive one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188039

I agree with the others though and stand by my initial statements; graphics card is sure to be fantastic but way into overkill regions. Looking through your combo price for board and graphics drops from upwards of $750 to around $500, combo deal as you seem to be looking for them:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDet...st=Combo.254506

The cooler: I did some reading and apparently the stock one is fine unless you want to play proper overclocking. Personally your machine should be fast enough for you and when it is not third party cooling will be going cheap.

By my calculations you are now well within your budget.
 
@DaMummy
- Thanks for the latency info, apparently the one I have has latency 7-7-7-20, which I think is good.
- Cases, I think that there are mid towers, and full towers that support ATX motherboard. Getting either one is fine?
- PCI express 16X, motherboard LGA matches processor LGA, soundcard built in ... Checked thanks to FAST6191.
- 6 memory slots, using 3 of them
- ooh yeah i wanted a card readed. The one you linked, is it recommended? I get scared from those reviews :s
- PCI slot, I'm not sure, but i think i have 2 (can you confirm that FAST6191?), and yes i wanted to ask about what PCI cards are available? I dont need firewire, i have one onboard .. which is more than enough .. enough usb slots. BUT I do need a wifi card, can anyone link me to a good one? Is there a bluetooth card? or does my current setup have it to begin with? anything else recommended?
- gfx says it had to have a power supply 680w minimum, i had originally decided to buy 750w, but changed that to 850w as its only $20 .. just to be safe. no mention of the motherboard though, not even on the manufacturer's site. Is 850w enough for this current setup?

@FAST6191
- oops, yeah thats the one i wanted for the motherboard, i just posted the wrong link, thanks
- I didnt get that part about the cooler, you mean the one i picked is fine? or i dont need one? in any case, do you recommend something else?

@Both
Yeah i understand what you guys are saying about the GFX card, but i donno.. I just dont want to let the one i picked out go for some reason. Well in any case, if things comes to worse, i would not have to put a second card ever as this will be more than enough.. right?

---------------------

so except for the wrong link for the motherboard, and changing the PSU to 850w from 750w (same brand), that is my current plan.
It will total up to $1687
I will be missing a monitor (which i might not buy, i can hook it up to my samsung 32' HDTV full HD), keyboard and mouse, 2xDVD Burners and a computer case

besides the questions i mentioned above. Any additions?

Thanks guys, you've been so helpful, especially you FAST6191, i would've gone nowhere without you
smile.gif
 
7-7-7-20 is good for DDR3 (and it is usually not much, if any, more expensive than the 8-8-8-? stuff) so I picked that out.
If it says ATX it should work, obviously a full tower will be easier to wire up but I doubt you will have any problems there.
PCI Slots = 2, remember you can stick wireless, bluetooth and the like on USB (OK I do not really rate many wireless USB cards but that is a different matter). If you do stick a wireless card in there go with a wireless G; the wireless N spec is not yet final.
Card reader: stick with a USB, you can internal (usually sit where a DVD drive would and external which I am sure you have seen before)

PSU stuff I will leave for a minute as it will require a bit of text.

Fans: Modern processors will come with a cooler which is usually known as the stock cooler to those building them. The third party ones aim to increase cooling usually by bolting on a massive heatsink and fan, often they succeed as stock coolers are generally aiming for the "will get the job done" grade. Throughout computing stock fans vary in quality and I was not sure where the i7 ones came in for the first posts I made but I went away and did some reading which said they are good for running at stock speeds and minor league overclocking.

Graphics card: it is a beast of card and probably one of the best ones still in the halfway sensible money region. It should play all modern games at ridiculous framerates (most of the time the human eye struggles to do above 30fps- reading reports some games with that ended up well over 100 fps) and it will probably last for a good couple of years until you really need to upgrade it.
The thing is for much less money you could get a card that can also put insane framerates out there and will also last for a good couple of years until you need to think about upgrading it. This might be two months ahead of the first and the insane rates might be 80 (less expensive) vs 100 (more expensive) or might mean you drop AA down to 8x rather than 16x but either way the games will run at great speeds, look pretty and not cause you too much hassle.
Second cards: the logic is/was that if you have a card and more pipelines, memory and so on make for more speed surely stitching two (or more) together would make it even better- this became SLI or crossfire depending on whether you went for NVIDIA or AMD-ATI for your cards. It is a sound theory but depending on the game it can make a world of difference or none at all or on rare occasions even make it worse (you can always disable it is software though). Truth be told most of the time they get used to people having multiple monitors on their machines and in doing so effectively making no difference at all unless you are running multiple games at once.

Re: hooking a TV in lieu of a monitor; do it, only thing that is better in my opinion if you do not need greater than "HD" resolutions (you do CAD or something) is a decent projector.

PSU: as others mentioned a dodgy PSU is never a good thing; most things you can afford to skimp on and it will only cost you speed. A dodgy PSU is likely to make your machine fall over or worse damage components.
Graphics cards are now near computers in and of themselves (they have memory, processors, clock generators, input, output) and as computing ability goes up so does power draw (today graphics cards need extra power where before the motherboard was enough) and graphics cards have only just begun to start reducing their power requirements (everything else in computing has been doing it for years). As the only source of power in a computer is the PSU you need a bigger one to run more power hungry devices.
Power is measured in Watts and the rating given is the amount of power they are rated to provide (their power draw at the wall is probably going to be higher- better PSUs are generally more efficient too).
Calculating power requirements is an inexact science a lot of the time and filled with superstition and whatever else as power draw goes up with load (you might be able to run the machine but try playing a 3d intensive game and watch your machine crash sort of thing).
The other side of it is that the power draw listed by the graphics card is for the "average" system (not just the card) which does not really exist and other makers will try minimum and it is basically all a mess. Some advocate the biggest one you can afford, some advocate trying to calculate things, some advocate having a "bench" supply and measuring it once it appears and some advocate just "playing it safe". Each has their advantages and I would rather save the $20 (750W is OK). Again it also poses problems for people when they go to upgrade in a few years and things have changed (and more interestingly their supplies have degraded over the years)- 2 and half years ago 750W was insane while today a kilowatt (1000W) may raise an eyebrow but it is far from unheard of. Oh and 750W (assuming it actually draws a lot- you are encoding video, playing games.....) + monitors for many hours a day can make for a decent electricity bill if you are not careful.

You also have to account for the fact that power supplies have different "rails" (most of the time anyway- I see a few now that try a single rail) that are also limited in the power they can provide but your builder will take care of that and usefully it means if done properly (very hard not to) your DVD drives should never cause your graphics to go without power.

edit: missed the new ram. That would work.
 
Fan: So I should save my money and not buy that? as the one that comes with the processor does the job? Also, should i buy any fans for GFX card or any other component?

RAM: changed the RAM, and found better combo combinations. I'll post the updated setup when things are a bit clearer

Graphics card: so I might end up changing it in a couple of years even if I'm do not use it (game-wise) that much? Performance should be the same for the next few years shouldnt it? I mean cause it's already above what's needed for these days modern games. So in a few years the games will catch up, and well, am I really gonna help to change the video card (or upgrade it by installing a second one) in a few years?
If thats NOT the case, I will stick to my current card..

PSU: Good info, thanks. I decided to stay with the 850w one though, $20 makes no difference.
In regards to the electricity bill, in my country, electricity is for free. However, each household is assigned a specific number on Ampere or Watts or whatever the measurment is. I heard my dad saying that we are near the limit, or by the limit, he stick we can probably put ONE more Air conditioner at home. Well, I dont know how much power these modern airconitioners consume, but are they anywhere close to the computer power? If so, I would have to talk to dad first before buying anything.
Also, I didnt understand the last part about power supplies having rails. Can you explain that again please?

Cases: So a Mid Tower will work as long as its ATX supported, got it. I'm trying to avoid a full tower one.

Monitor: I'm going to use my TV at first, if I see that things are not working out for me, and makes me feel uncomfortable, I'm gonna buy a monitor.

PCI slots: yeah I know i can get them on USB sticks, I just want to know what kind of PCI slots are there. Since wireless N doesnt exist yet, I wont install the wirless card just yet.
for the card reader I dont want to use USB for it, i want a card reader, its ok if it takes one internal space, I have 9 right?

Motherboard: ergh.. quick check, can you check these 2 motherboards?
The one I picked, and ASUS P6T Deluxe v2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813131365
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188039

The price is the same, the combo price that I'm gonna pick differs 5 dollars only (asus 5 dollars cheaper)

Thanks again FAST6191
 

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