Gaming GBS Control, anyone built one? I did recently and think it is worth it.

[Borgman2018]

nice case, really digging the redesign, do you plan to share the files?

I can, but beware that the big "GBS control" writing on the side isn't easy to print, it will likely come out deformed, this is how mine came out:

In order to correct the mistake, the guy that printed it made a plaque with the correct writing and applied it on top of it.

Also, not everything is perfect. For example, the video output cutout is still sized for the VGA port, so it's too small for the HDMI adapter, I had to manually cut a bigger hole in order to make it fit, the SCART cutout is too thin (although the width is fine) etc... This was the first time ever I edited an .stl file, so I'll post it with the understanding that you'll have to modify it yourself in order to make it functional (I called the file "unfinished draft" for this reason).

BTW, my intention is to put the power supply behind the SCART socket, a slim one should fit.

also on the last thing r26 resistor mod is used for component inputs as the brightness isn't quite up to snuff on them and may produce too dark an image. it is seperate from the one for SCART and should be off when SCART is in use as it would make the input from it too bright, only reason i added a switch was i plan on using both.

OK

that all being said i ended up doing something completely diffrent with that board and am building another one now. currently using it to bring my nes tv back from the ghost using the gbsc and an arcade monitor board that worked with the tube i had in it. might post some pictures of that once it's all fininshed up.

Yes, do it. That would be interesting.

 

[issdar]

I finally got around to checking if it will work with my elgato game capture HD, and it does!
while all setting work for passing through video (except 15khz and passthrough in gbsc for obvious reasons) but to capture video gbs control has to be set to 720p or 1080p output, you might be able to capture the other resolution settings using software like obs studio instead of the stock elgato software but i have not tested it.
looks like a possible good alternative for a cheap streaming option for older consoles, while the game cature HD can accept composite, s-video, and component it won't look as good as a gbsc with good cables will over the hdmi input.
these can be had for as little as $30 usd working on ebay, and HD60s goes for around $45 and might be a batter option for most but dunno if it will play nice (i say better because it isn't limited to 30fps capture).

Spoiler: pics

View attachment 279648
View attachment 279649

on that note, i did the one's of these i did not do before to see if i saw any benefits, but only really noticed a actually difference with the 330ohm resistor on r26 it does a lot for the brightness levels over component.
took some captures to show the differences.

Spoiler

View attachment 279656
switch on for 330ohm
View attachment 279658
off
View attachment 279659
on
View attachment 279660
off
View attachment 279661

I also added a switch to the 100ohm resistor between syn and ground from what i have read and personally witnessed it makes vga in put signals look wonky and distorted and sometimes tear badly if left connected while using a vga source input.
i am gonna modifly the STL i used for this shell to accommodate these switches and some other stuff i might feel like adding after i clean up some of my test solders and rewire a few things.

Hello! These are awesome comparisons of r26 resistor mod I have been struggling with low brightness for PS2 (component in/vga-to-hdmi out). I am a little confused though you said you swapped r26 for a 330ohm resistor? I am reading everywhere else that is should be 150ohm for rgbhv output and 110 ohm for component output. How did you come up with 330 ohm?

 

[issdar]

I finally got around to checking if it will work with my elgato game capture HD, and it does!
while all setting work for passing through video (except 15khz and passthrough in gbsc for obvious reasons) but to capture video gbs control has to be set to 720p or 1080p output, you might be able to capture the other resolution settings using software like obs studio instead of the stock elgato software but i have not tested it.
looks like a possible good alternative for a cheap streaming option for older consoles, while the game cature HD can accept composite, s-video, and component it won't look as good as a gbsc with good cables will over the hdmi input.
these can be had for as little as $30 usd working on ebay, and HD60s goes for around $45 and might be a batter option for most but dunno if it will play nice (i say better because it isn't limited to 30fps capture).

Spoiler: pics

View attachment 279648
View attachment 279649

on that note, i did the one's of these i did not do before to see if i saw any benefits, but only really noticed a actually difference with the 330ohm resistor on r26 it does a lot for the brightness levels over component.
took some captures to show the differences.

Spoiler

View attachment 279656
switch on for 330ohm
View attachment 279658
off
View attachment 279659
on
View attachment 279660
off
View attachment 279661

I also added a switch to the 100ohm resistor between syn and ground from what i have read and personally witnessed it makes vga in put signals look wonky and distorted and sometimes tear badly if left connected while using a vga source input.
i am gonna modifly the STL i used for this shell to accommodate these switches and some other stuff i might feel like adding after i clean up some of my test solders and rewire a few things.

Hello! These are awesome comparisons of r26 resistor mod I have been struggling with low brightness for PS2 (component in/vga-to-hdmi out). I am a little confused though you said you swapped r26 for a 330ohm resistor? I am reading everywhere else that is should be 150ohm for rgbhv output and 110 ohm for component output. How did you come up with 330 ohm?

I finally got around to checking if it will work with my elgato game capture HD, and it does!
while all setting work for passing through video (except 15khz and passthrough in gbsc for obvious reasons) but to capture video gbs control has to be set to 720p or 1080p output, you might be able to capture the other resolution settings using software like obs studio instead of the stock elgato software but i have not tested it.
looks like a possible good alternative for a cheap streaming option for older consoles, while the game cature HD can accept composite, s-video, and component it won't look as good as a gbsc with good cables will over the hdmi input.
these can be had for as little as $30 usd working on ebay, and HD60s goes for around $45 and might be a batter option for most but dunno if it will play nice (i say better because it isn't limited to 30fps capture).

Spoiler: pics

View attachment 279648
View attachment 279649

on that note, i did the one's of these i did not do before to see if i saw any benefits, but only really noticed a actually difference with the 330ohm resistor on r26 it does a lot for the brightness levels over component.
took some captures to show the differences.

Spoiler

View attachment 279656
switch on for 330ohm
View attachment 279658
off
View attachment 279659
on
View attachment 279660
off
View attachment 279661

I also added a switch to the 100ohm resistor between syn and ground from what i have read and personally witnessed it makes vga in put signals look wonky and distorted and sometimes tear badly if left connected while using a vga source input.
i am gonna modifly the STL i used for this shell to accommodate these switches and some other stuff i might feel like adding after i clean up some of my test solders and rewire a few things.

Hello! These are awesome comparisons of r26 resistor mod I have been struggling with low brightness for PS2 (component in/vga-to-hdmi out). I am a little confused though you said you swapped r26 for a 330ohm resistor? I am reading everywhere else that is should be 150ohm for rgbhv output and 110 ohm for component output. How did you come up with 330 ohm?

 

[PhyChris]

Has anyone tried using the Trueview 5725 scaling chip's video input the MTV230M CPU uses for its OSD? how would one test that anyway?

 

[Borgman2018]

[...]

Hi, sorry if I bother you again, but I need an advice on the project.

I finished the GBS and it works... for a while, then the WiFi board's blue LED turns off and I get a black screen. the red led of the GBS stays on, it's just the WiFi board that turns off.

The WiFi board is connected to the +5V header of the GBS 8200, along with the HDMI adapter (see the picture, it's the purple wire on the lower right corner).

I tried to connect it to the 3.3V of the GBS and I noticed that the picture lasts a little longer, even a couple of minutes, but eventually it turns off.

Do you have any idea of what could it be the problem?

 

[wolffangalchemist]

Hi, sorry if I bother you again, but I need an advice on the project.

I finished the GBS and it works... for a while, then the WiFi board's blue LED turns off and I get a black screen. the red led of the GBS stays on, it's just the WiFi board that turns off.

The WiFi board is connected to the +5V header of the GBS 8200, along with the HDMI adapter (see the picture, it's the purple wire on the lower right corner).

I tried to connect it to the 3.3V of the GBS and I noticed that the picture lasts a little longer, even a couple of minutes, but eventually it turns off.

Do you have any idea of what could it be the problem?

View attachment 310599From what i can see, the wires on the

could just be this,
https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control/wiki/various-notes

but if it persist from what i can see though it is a different revision(i have 4.0 boards and yours is a 5.1) it might be psu related the area around the power input is a bit different in your revision, it would help to get (if you aren't already using one)a 2.5 to 3 amp 5v psu just to rule it out completely and maybe hard wire the power to the hdmi and the wifi board. also though i think that isn't necessary the issue looks like you also have some dry connections around clk2 on the clock gen i would move it up a bit like i have it here and shorted the wires as much as possible. i have also insulated the ram with a layer of tape with foil in between it and the wires going over it, this should help with any signal interference.

I also have some updates about the nes TV that i should have posted here a bit back but these past few months have been a bit hellish as i was jobless due to unforeseen circumstances, that said it now lives again! I'm still working out some back external connections for inputs and how everying will be mounted internally. haven't done to much of a write up but this will be completely applicable to turning old tv sets with good tubes but bad boards potentially into a poor mans PVM.

 

[liquidgykill]

I finally finished mine last weekend, I followed Voultar's method.
I didnt removed the 3 yellow potentiometers since I only will use component cables.

My main drive to make one of these was to use it on my PS2, I dont own any other older console.
I loved how crisp the image can be in some games with GSM enabled (on OPL) but I didnt liked the slight blurry artifacts of the analog component output through my TV (Im using official Sony component cables). So I tought I could get a cleaner picture with a digital output while using GSM.

Sadly, dissapointment sank when I realized that GBS-C is not compatible with GSM, it fucks the image royaly trying to use GSM in 1080i and the scaler in ANY mode.

I tought I could use GBS-C as a simple pass through to clean the analog artifacts, while GSM does all the upscaling. I was wrong. No matter if I try to use it just simply as a pass through wich most of the time results in no image, or if I try to use any GBS-C resolution in tandem with GSM, it always gives an inferior fucked up image.

For example lets say I try to play Resident Evil 4 with GSM on 1080i, triangle+X to enable 480p, then pass through only. It always fucks the image in aspect ratio or it defaults to a very blurry greenish supbar "480p".

Also, even with the clockgen in place and the message of "Active FTL not necessary", in rare ocassions I still get some screen tearing and for what Ive seen on the official github, its a problem no one exactly knows why could happen. It fixes if you reset or power off/on the board.

Also another issue I have that is also documented on the official github is the diagonal lines of noise when I try to use the 480p resolution on GBS-C, again no one knows exactly what causes this.

I have to say that maybe my expectations where a little higher, but since I have no experience with upscalers maybe thats my fault. I still think GSM gives a sharper image through component cables directly to the tv tho.

Now, If I disable GSM at all and try to play a 480i game upscaled to 1080p, the change is evident, the flickering is practically gone with motion adaptive deinterlacing, and its slighty sharper than using component cables direclty hooked to my tv with GSM disabled. Also the image is better with 480p games upscaled to 1080p.

I have to repeat, its not that sharp as using GSM enabled on my TV but its close enough; the problem with GSM is that its not compatible with all games on OPL some games dont even start with GSM enabled, so GBS-C is a whorty alternative to have an all rounder decent image with all PS2 games.

I know Ive been a little pesimist with all Ive written but dont get me wrong, I like GBS-C a lot, and the fact I did it myself with no soldering skills; after a lot of suffering, frustration and trial and error to solder such little cables to very little pins, bridging and debridging a lot of shit in the process is a very good feeling of having something that you made working properly.

I also tried some Wii VC games through GBS-C and the result was a slightly sharper image but not much difference tbh.

I think GBS-C makes things easier in general, and with a wide compatibility and decent image quality you cant go wrong by having one preferably assembled by yourself since its cheaper than a finished unit, now I dont use GSM anymore on my PS2, I traded slighty sharper image for a wider compatibilty and almost no flickering and its worthy IMO.

I still have to test it on CRT to see how does it do.

 

[eyeliner]

Component always blurs the lines, from my experience.
For really crispy image, RGB is the way to go.
I use my GBS-C with my SNES, SFC, PS1, PS2 and Wii.
My setup consists on GBS-C hokked up to a 15" TFT, and the results are quite consistent.
Component blurs the image, while RGB shows the pixels very lovely sexy.

I'd use component cables while hooking my systems to my HD TV directly that has component input.

Resorting to GBS-C, RGB is the way to go.

 

[Kamille]

Hi everyone,

I'm quoting from someone else who is helping me put together my own GBS-C via Voultar's video on building one. Considering it's a grueling adventure to do, we've ran into an issue in which I will quote from him below and hope anyone knows what might be causing the issue.

I can log into the web control interface for it, and I can select and adjust pretty much every setting, EXCEPT the output resolution. That whole section of the menu will blink when I tap or click a button, so it knows I'm clicking it, but it refuses to actually select one. They just remain dotted lines around each option. And thus it doesn't output ANY video.

After setting up the debug menu options so we could see what could possibly be causing a problem. He mentioned that "GBS board not responding" is popping up in debug. All the wiring has been checked, and double checked, but to rule out anything, is there a video out there that shows how to build one of these units step by step? Following Voultar's was good, but now I think it might be something else.

Edit: Including how the wiring looks for now. Maybe someone can see something that's been overlooked.

 

[eyeliner]

Why is that Grey cable connected to c10?
Isn't the board the other way around?

 

[Kamille]

Why is that Grey cable connected to c10?

I'll ask my friend about it. Chances are during us troubleshooting, there was a post I found that mentioned wire swapping to somewhere else, either on the clock or arduino board. I'll have him check it out.

Isn't the board the other way around?

Which board? the Arduino board or clock?

 

[eyeliner]

I'll ask my friend about it. Chances are during us troubleshooting, there was a post I found that mentioned wire swapping to somewhere else, either on the clock or arduino board. I'll have him check it out.

Which board? the Arduino board or clock?

The wifi card. The chips should be facing the interior of the GBS?

Though without seeing the pin labels, I can't compare with mine.

 

[Kamille]

The wifi card. The chips should be facing the interior of the GBS?

When I watched Voultar's video, the Arduino Wi-Fi card he does it on has the chips going outward. I'll ask my associate to do a rewire and see if having them go inward does anything, but I'm assuming there is no solder mask, or anything that could be preventing them from being wired in the way shown in the video. Doing anything I would say is better than nothing.

Though without seeing the pin labels, I can't compare with mine.

I'll see if he can take some better photos showing the labeling of everything.

Also his response for the C10 wiring was this:

I went off of RetroRGB's video for the black and grey wires to power the clock board
Black is ground and grey is power, afaik

Since my associate's at work as of now and wont have a chance to look at the board until either he gets home or on the weekend, I'll assume what he did was off of that video for the clock wiring so if C10 is there I'll let you know for sure later on.


Thanks for your help on this. You don't know how long we've been bashing our head against the wall to figure out what the issue was.

 

[Dragons]

That’s impressive work well done

 

[eyeliner]

When I watched Voultar's video, the Arduino Wi-Fi card he does it on has the chips going outward. I'll ask my associate to do a rewire and see if having them go inward does anything, but I'm assuming there is no solder mask, or anything that could be preventing them from being wired in the way shown in the video. Doing anything I would say is better than nothing.



I'll see if he can take some better photos showing the labeling of everything.

Also his response for the C10 wiring was this:


Since my associate's at work as of now and wont have a chance to look at the board until either he gets home or on the weekend, I'll assume what he did was off of that video for the clock wiring so if C10 is there I'll let you know for sure later on.


Thanks for your help on this. You don't know how long we've been bashing our head against the wall to figure out what the issue was.

This is mine.
Disregard how it's built in a wooden frame.
I have some different connections because I followed the advice on the wiki on Github.
I've seen Voultar and Bob's videos as well.
If all else fails, redo the thing?

It's a real easy project for a beginner.

 

[r1vver]

I have some different connections because I followed the advice on the wiki on Github.

Hmm... I see that your CLK is connected with a rather long wire (CLK0 to TrueView pin 40). Does this work well?

 

[eyeliner]

Hmm... I see that your CLK is connected with a rather long wire (CLK0 to TrueView pin 40). Does this work well?

Yup. Absolutely no problem.
Unfortunately, I don't get to use it often, as a PAL user and connecting to an LCD, I have to convert 50Hz to 60hz, and have the clock disabled most of the time.

 

[Kamille]

So since my friend was still trying to troubleshoot what was happening with the board that he got from me awhile back. I decided to just buy the parts and try again from square one. Managed to wire up everything sans most of the clock generator wires to the chip needed on the 8200 main board but works like a charm.

I do have a couple of questions to ask.

First, I tried out the composite connection on my board, and noticed there's an option to use composite video. However, everything comes out black and white. Can you use the upscale with just composite video, or is it only component? I noticed there was an option to use Composite video, but wasn't able to get too deep into it.

Second, how important is it to have the clock generator wired to the 8200? As of now it's hard for me to solder to pins 24 and 25 of the 8200 but almost everything else is in place. Is this a big detriment to not have it completely wired up before using?

Finally, and maybe this is just me either not understanding upscaling properly, but when I connected my Wii's component cables for testing and wanted to upscale from 480p to 1080p I would get absolutely no output resolution to my TV until I either dropped the settings on the GBS-C back to something that was 480p or did Pass Through Mode. Is it not possible to upscale from 480p to 1080p? or is there a setting I might have missed somewhere?


Thanks everyone! Been struggling with this project for months to just get it to work, and now having one that works is truly a dream!

 

[eyeliner]

There's no need to have the clock generator, unless you experience screen tearing.

I am not aware that composite input is supported.

Regarding the last question, maybe a 50hz/60hz miss match?

 

[Kamille]

There's no need to have the clock generator, unless you experience screen tearing.

I don't know if this would count as screen tearing, but I'm assuming it's some kind of signal interference, or just bad cables. When I hooked my Wii up to the upscaler via Component, I ended up getting this vertical tearing when I raised the resolution to anything past 480p.


Edit: After a couple of more hours of playing around with the component video and trying to see what's going on with it, I tried out my PS2 and the following was happening. I managed to capture this via passthrough option, but the second I switch to any resolution for upscaling, the video goes completely gray and a high pitched static noise will start playing through my speakers.

I'm taking it as a cable issue, and just ordered the HD Retrovision Composite cables to see if there is any change. I also noticed that on the GBS-C output the following text will be shown stating that there is no signal, and constantly loop, with the text inside of the "*****" brackets with minor changes to the number values.