Maybe the info is wrong, because most sites copy from gsmarena. Many sites write a lithium battery as Li-on, even though it's different technology.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sony+Xperia+Z5+Compact+Battery+Replacement/53303
I owned these xperias: Ray, S, ZR, Z1, Z5 compact. A friend had these: T, Z2, M5, XZ1. All of them opened and checked.
All of them with Li-Po.
Maybe it has to do with regions? Europe gets the Li-Po ones like Japan?
Maybe what you see is a similar case with
@guily6669.
Btw,
@guily6669 have you opened it and saw the battery?
I changed screen on my Xperia Z2 and did tiny soldering
.
My Sony Xperia Z2 battery report as Li-ion, whoever I won't deny the full voltage reported is more in the Lipo range, but we all know most devices keep away from the actual FULL voltage of them for having more cycles...
I use the option in Xperia Z2 that increases battery cycles reducing a bit the capacity and from time to time I use the other option to get more time.
But I bought my Xperia Z2 used from ebay, I will have to order a battery some day as it already came with quite a considerable loss of capacity.
EDIT: And I have checked yesterday on google for your Z5 compact and it actually shown some reported as Lipo, I never knew they would use Lipos as they are the most dangerous batteries out there lol and they easily balloon quite faster and easier than Li-ion.
Nope you can't check something like in Joy-Cons. Also the right joy-con battery depletes faster if you use the motion a lot, or the left one if you don't (constant use of stick).
The switch has automatic charging and voltage regulation cutoff that kicks in in 5 hours. This is implemented on the battery charger level and does not need OS interaction (it works in RCM also).
The battery even goes low if you don't use it at all in dock.
If you remove it from the dock and add it again, this timer restarts.
So believe it or not, for normal operation it's well designed. Mine is day -2 switch and it can still give 98% of the max capacity (design).
I never cycled my joy-cons, they are totally bad... I left them reporting 100% and didnt use my Switch for like 2 or 3 months, the console had above 90% reported (I did like 4 or 5 full cycles in it before leaving it at 100% for storage), but the joy-cons had no charge, I fully charged them now, but I didnt even ever removed them from the console or used them wirelessly...
Today I was trying to pair my DS4 to Switch, but all I could do is oddly pairing the DS4 to the Joy-con LOL
(controller paired to another controller).
Basically I saw a post somewhere on this forum saying to use a bluetooth scanner to check Switch Bluetooth mac address, sadly I could only find the joy-con bluetooth mac addresses, console is hidden and not a single app could find it.
So I injected one of the joy-con address to the DS4 thinking if it was paired to the console maybe it could pair, but it can only get paired to the joy-con it self and not the console.
If anyone not lazy like me that have a DS4 and can connect the joy-con to the PC, if you get the Switch bluetooth mac address injected in the joy-con, can you please try injecting into the DS4 to see if it pairs with the Switch?