Hacking Battery hold almost no charge (new switch)

[CrAzYLiFe]

They are way different in management and usage. RC batteries normally don't even have protection ic.
Also a typical lithium battery for electronics is never discharged lower than 3.2V. RC batteries can be "revived" if they get low. But for electronics normally no (without removing the battery ic pcb).
Lastly, they always come pre-cured from factory.

No need to charge them every month. If this was the case, then it would drive everyone crazy.
Best way is every 4-6 months at 40-50% (~3.75V). Otherwise, 70-80% every year.

Yeah it's a Li-Po 3.8V (max 4.35V). I have a sony (z5 compact). They still use their best batteries in flagship smartphones (for capacity and charge cycles).
I mean it's a tiny and slim battery but could hold 2895mAh (design is 2700mAh. I was lucky and had a good binning).

Everywhere I look the z5 compact comes up as having a Li-ion and no mention of polymer

 

[CTCaer]

Everyone still recommends doing a first higher time charge and the cycles everywhere for every device, but whatever...

I have a Sony Xperia Z2 and mine is a Li-ion, but your phone is way more recent too, never thought they would use Lipo in them

And about the RC, they can't be revived that good, I have quite a lot of dead batteries as I don't use them for a year, then a charge, then a year of no use, so at the end all of them keep dying grrr, I hope next battery technology can make them stay uncharged 4 ever.

Everywhere I look the z5 compact comes up as having a Li-ion and no mention of polymer

Maybe the info is wrong, because most sites copy from gsmarena. Many sites write a lithium battery as Li-on, even though it's different technology.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sony+Xperia+Z5+Compact+Battery+Replacement/53303

I owned these xperias: Ray, S, ZR, Z1, Z5 compact. A friend had these: T, Z2, M5, XZ1. All of them opened and checked.
All of them with Li-Po.

Maybe it has to do with regions? Europe gets the Li-Po ones like Japan?
Maybe what you see is a similar case with @guily6669.
Btw, @guily6669 have you opened it and saw the battery?

 

[tides]

can we check the state of the joy con battery as well? i feel like one of my joy con batt is not consistent with the other

it's also interesting how people deny that the switch is designed well when they have an internal battery + the dock will keep your battery constantly charged at 100%

 

[CTCaer]

can we check the state of the joy con battery as well? i feel like one of my joy con batt is not consistent with the other

it's also interesting how people deny that the switch is designed well when they have an internal battery + the dock will keep your battery constantly charged at 100%

Nope you can't check something like in Joy-Cons. Also the right joy-con battery depletes faster if you use the motion a lot, or the left one if you don't (constant use of stick).

The switch has automatic charging and voltage regulation cutoff that kicks in in 5 hours. This is implemented on the battery charger level and does not need OS interaction (it works in RCM also).
The battery even goes low if you don't use it at all in dock.

If you remove it from the dock and add it again, this timer restarts.

So believe it or not, for normal operation it's well designed. Mine is day -2 switch and it can still give 98% of the max capacity (design).

 

[tides]

Nope you can't check something like in Joy-Cons. Also the right joy-con battery depletes faster if you use the motion a lot, or the left one if you don't (constant use of stick).

The switch has automatic charging and voltage regulation cutoff that kicks in in 5 hours. This is implemented on the battery charger level and does not need OS interaction (it works in RCM also).
The battery even goes low if you don't use it at all in dock.

If you remove it from the dock and add it again, this timer restarts.

So believe it or not, for normal operation it's well designed. Mine is day -2 switch and it can still give 98% of the max capacity (design).

the only game i am playing is XBC2

i have 2 sets of joycon. on the first one, the right one reaches low faster. i made a post about this but the only feedback i got was that i was using it more often. fine.

but when i bought another set of joycon, the left one reaches low faster. this is fustrating too because there is no way to check if the battery of the joycon is fuked or not. i just changed my iphone battery, my 3ds battery is bloated and i can't seem to find a replacement because nintendo isn't in my country and ebay only sells the normal 3ds xl but not the new 3ds xl (fuck nintendo for it's naming sense cus it's a pain to find battery replacement esp since they all have different batteries)

 

[Classicgamer]

All thermal compounds that manufacturers use are crap (cost reduction).
And when you see a pink one (greaze or pad), it's absolute garbage.

So does the switch exhibit less performance in games when docked, such as Zelda, due to heat?
If the game continues to run “normally” everything is as good as it gets in terms of FPS?
Does replacing the thermal paste make a difference at all?

Thanks!

 

[CTCaer]

the only game i am playing is XBC2

i have 2 sets of joycon. on the first one, the right one reaches low faster. i made a post about this but the only feedback i got was that i was using it more often. fine.

but when i bought another set of joycon, the left one reaches low faster. this is fustrating too because there is no way to check if the battery of the joycon is fuked or not. i just changed my iphone battery, my 3ds battery is bloated and i can't seem to find a replacement because nintendo isn't in my country and ebay only sells the normal 3ds xl but not the new 3ds xl (fuck nintendo for it's naming sense cus it's a pain to find battery replacement esp since they all have different batteries)

Maybe the new set has updated firmware. I know for a fact that the latest 2 joy-con firmwares have reduced battery on left one to boost the signal when there's a lot of noise.
Myself I don't have a problem with that. It fixed the stick movement not registering.

So does the switch exhibit less performance in games when docked, such as Zelda, due to heat?
If the game continues to run “normally” everything is as good as it gets in terms of FPS?
Does replacing the thermal paste make a difference at all?

Thanks!

It will do a difference if you live in a hot country.
It's not easy to hit thermal constraints though. The fan does a good job.
It may hit it though if you reach ~40-45 oC ambient temperature.

So, it's not necessary. But if you remove the heatsink for something else, it's a good idea to replace the blob with a nice thermal compound.

 

[guily6669]

Maybe the info is wrong, because most sites copy from gsmarena. Many sites write a lithium battery as Li-on, even though it's different technology.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sony+Xperia+Z5+Compact+Battery+Replacement/53303

I owned these xperias: Ray, S, ZR, Z1, Z5 compact. A friend had these: T, Z2, M5, XZ1. All of them opened and checked.
All of them with Li-Po.

Maybe it has to do with regions? Europe gets the Li-Po ones like Japan?
Maybe what you see is a similar case with @guily6669.
Btw, @guily6669 have you opened it and saw the battery?

I changed screen on my Xperia Z2 and did tiny soldering .

My Sony Xperia Z2 battery report as Li-ion, whoever I won't deny the full voltage reported is more in the Lipo range, but we all know most devices keep away from the actual FULL voltage of them for having more cycles...

I use the option in Xperia Z2 that increases battery cycles reducing a bit the capacity and from time to time I use the other option to get more time.

But I bought my Xperia Z2 used from ebay, I will have to order a battery some day as it already came with quite a considerable loss of capacity.

EDIT: And I have checked yesterday on google for your Z5 compact and it actually shown some reported as Lipo, I never knew they would use Lipos as they are the most dangerous batteries out there lol and they easily balloon quite faster and easier than Li-ion.

Nope you can't check something like in Joy-Cons. Also the right joy-con battery depletes faster if you use the motion a lot, or the left one if you don't (constant use of stick).

The switch has automatic charging and voltage regulation cutoff that kicks in in 5 hours. This is implemented on the battery charger level and does not need OS interaction (it works in RCM also).
The battery even goes low if you don't use it at all in dock.

If you remove it from the dock and add it again, this timer restarts.

So believe it or not, for normal operation it's well designed. Mine is day -2 switch and it can still give 98% of the max capacity (design).

I never cycled my joy-cons, they are totally bad... I left them reporting 100% and didnt use my Switch for like 2 or 3 months, the console had above 90% reported (I did like 4 or 5 full cycles in it before leaving it at 100% for storage), but the joy-cons had no charge, I fully charged them now, but I didnt even ever removed them from the console or used them wirelessly...


Today I was trying to pair my DS4 to Switch, but all I could do is oddly pairing the DS4 to the Joy-con LOL(controller paired to another controller).

Basically I saw a post somewhere on this forum saying to use a bluetooth scanner to check Switch Bluetooth mac address, sadly I could only find the joy-con bluetooth mac addresses, console is hidden and not a single app could find it.

So I injected one of the joy-con address to the DS4 thinking if it was paired to the console maybe it could pair, but it can only get paired to the joy-con it self and not the console.


If anyone not lazy like me that have a DS4 and can connect the joy-con to the PC, if you get the Switch bluetooth mac address injected in the joy-con, can you please try injecting into the DS4 to see if it pairs with the Switch?

 

[igoticecream]

@CTCaer May I request that shipping mode enabler? I just bought a second switch as a backup and i'd like to conserve its battery since i won't be using it (had to check if it was vulnerable, so i had to plug it)