Will my switch still work fine without this capacitor?

ack

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Switchre_side1.jpg

so basically, a soldering accident occured, and now my switch doesn't have this capacitor anymore. Is this a big deal? It still boots and stuff, but does anyone know what this capacitor does and if not having it could cause any damage down the line? might be a silly question seeing as it boots, but it's stressing me out extremely.
 

FAST6191

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Short version. Nobody knows and it will likely take some real testing to figure out, and possibly some serious schematics even then.

Anyway blue arrow near circled 2 for those playing spot the hidden object.

Capacitors can serve multiple functions (though for things this size and location in a circuit* it is usually providing less noise or that little bit of extra power if the draw elsewhere in the circuit would have it drop below rather than what you might see from electrolytics in power circuits) and it might even serve none (just there for reference implementation but not removed by the designer or the integrator). It booting is a positive sign. The problems are more likely to come with lower battery, higher performance demanded (running a menu is one thing, thrashing it in the middle of a high demand game quite another), periods of noisy devices being nearby (you can try running it in a factory near giant motors if you want) and possibly even some weird combo of things (wifi on, speakers, up, high demand, certain types of instructions).

*the traces next to it appear to follow an unusual path and closely match each other which says they are matched impedance traces (if you follow it further around does one, probably on the "inside" do a little wiggly bit?), and that capacitor goes between the two which means they are either an inverted pair or it is some kind of capacitive coupling between two signals.
I don't know what that chip is and a casual search on https://octopart.com/ and https://www.findchips.com/ (the numbers on top mean things, however things that small are usually incomplete and I don't see a logo https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/415163/smd-identification-sot23-t-7-symbol ) does not reveal much either.
 

ack

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ok so i've pretty much figured out what not having it does- the chip it goes into is a temperature sensor, and it's there to smooth out the current between the d+ and d- lines, so it being gone, and the resistors below it possibly being shorted or not even there means that that chip doesnt function. Now the question is, will my switch still function fine with one temperature sensor nonfunctional? it's the SOC temperature sensor, and i've been monitoring the skin temperature it's been getting up to. For the pcb temperature, its gotten to up to 57 c and the skin temperature has lagged behind at like 10c and lower when the pcb temperature is lower. So, is this gonna mean my switch will frequently overheat, or could the soc get hot enough to damage itself before the pcb gets hot enough to shut it down?
 
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binkinator

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ok so i've pretty much figured out what not having it does- the chip it goes into is a temperature sensor, and it's there to smooth out the current between the d+ and d- lines, so it being gone, and the resistors below it possibly being shorted or not even there means that that chip doesnt function. Now the question is, will my switch still function fine with one temperature sensor nonfunctional? it's the SOC temperature sensor, and i've been monitoring the skin temperature it's been getting up to. For the pcb temperature, its gotten to up to 57 c and the skin temperature has lagged behind at like 10c and lower when the pcb temperature is lower. So, is this gonna mean my switch will frequently overheat, or could the soc get hot enough to damage itself before the pcb gets hot enough to shut it down?

Below 60 degrees is normal temp.

The SOC has built-in protections as well and should trip them if it gets too hot.

For a temporary workaround, you could turn the fan on using sys-clk, as the over-clockers do.

Would still be better to figure out the value of this resistor capacitor and get the circuit operational again (duh...I know.)
 
Last edited by binkinator,

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