Hardware Exchanging thermal paste?
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The guy in that video puts thermal pads not only on the RAM chips, but also on the long stretch of the heatsink itself, instead of Nintendo's rather messy approach to put thermal paste on that too. Apparently the Switch uses the metal frame to dissipate heat further.
Do we know for sure what is the correct thermal pad dimensions (thickness, in particular) that we need to ensure that both the pad(s) on the RAM chips, and the pad on the long stretch of the heatsink make good contact with the metal frame?
I bought 0.5mm thick pads, but obviously I cannot know for sure if they actually make contact or not.
Is there any benchmark/stress test homebrew application available, that maybe records temperatures as well, or can someone confirm the optimal thermal pad thickness?
Do we know for sure what is the correct thermal pad dimensions (thickness, in particular) that we need to ensure that both the pad(s) on the RAM chips, and the pad on the long stretch of the heatsink make good contact with the metal frame?
I bought 0.5mm thick pads, but obviously I cannot know for sure if they actually make contact or not.
Is there any benchmark/stress test homebrew application available, that maybe records temperatures as well, or can someone confirm the optimal thermal pad thickness?
you may be able to stress test with this version of linux for the switch https://gbatemp.net/threads/ubuntu-18-04-on-a-switch.502147/
I would like to contribute with some info. I have 2 NS, both with cfw (atmosphère). One of them the paste was replaced with AS5. Both overclock, highest settings, dock mode; waited for 20 minutes in the results screen after a 8 player smash game (fan speed increases in that particular screen). Went to the Hekate menu tu compare the temps after the 20 minute wait. The NS with new paste registered 47.9°C, the other registered 54.6°C. A difference of 6.7°C without using thermal pads, only replaced paste. Hope this is useful for someone 
I use some cheap liquid metal in my switch, and the trick is to use very little, and spread it thin. It's safer this way. My fan barely ever kicks on anymore handheld, and even docked it's not running as hot. It also cools down faster after exiting a game, I've noticed. So the liquid metal paste really works, and you can use a cheap one, doesn't have to be a $20 tube.
you can put a lot of alcohol with 0 problems, just always 1st disconnect the battery and before connecting make sure its 100% dry...
Also if you remove the copper crap sheet, its better to do the old method of manually spreading the thermal compound on the whole SOC, because if some part is not covered some parts might get hot spots, so its better to manually spread across the whole die.
Also if you remove the copper crap sheet, its better to do the old method of manually spreading the thermal compound on the whole SOC, because if some part is not covered some parts might get hot spots, so its better to manually spread across the whole die.
So until this thread I didn't realize that the Switch can noticably thermal throttle at stock speeds in normal room temperature. That alone would explain some of the reports of switch revision being more stable in high end games, and suggest you can get the exact same results just improving the cooling on the OG Switch. Also furthermore that you practically have to do this mod for Horizon overclocking to matter in said games.
Last edited by Rahkeesh,
When I see easy mods for improvements like this I can't help myself but I decided to change thermal paste on my launch day PS4 the other day and it didn't help at all. Having a hacked switch filled with 200gb of games is awesome and I'm not going to bother taking a chance with it. I mean I soldered in the 5cm "wifi wire antenna" in the right joycon and a reed switch but I'm not going to start messing with the console itself.
And if you are working on the SOC why would you apply in the LCD... the alcohol is to be used to clean the thermal compound nothing else... (also now for a few years on really super crappy thermal compound I have been using WD40 to remove spraying it into cotton, it removes the super dry gum thermal compound much better than alcohol, never had problems, my Xbox360 was always cleaned with WD40 since 2008 and its still working, same on my PS3)...
And even still It all depends, I had many devices who went to salt water and some the LCD was still like new while others the LCD still worked but kinda bad... Also I don't know how's the nintendo switch LCD as I havent taken apart, but most smartphones this days the LCD at least is usually waterproof because all the layers are completely glued on all corners so no water can enter it, even though the rest of the phone can be damaged or the LCD electronics unless the phone is waterproof...
Same here...
I can only give credits to Sony, because I opened up my PS4 Pro recently and it has around 3 years and the thermal paste in it was actually mostly liquid, its a HUGE upgrade from the PS3\360 era... However I was also ripped by Sony at the same time since my PS4 pro had random shutdown problems since day one, some times it appears "there's too many usb devices connected" without even having any usb cable connected then freezes and then shutdown, most online said it was a software problem so I just kept it...
Now after opening the console I see that I got a used repaired motherboard in a new shell because it was full of solder, something that looked like watermarks damage, solder all over the place, I wasted almost half a can of contact cleaner on the whole motherboard and fully brushed it, there was even very small loose solder balls in the motherboard, after doing that, for now the console hasnt shutdown a single time yet...
But I can't say either if the good quality thermal compound is also a standard on the PS4 Pro or if Sony simply used a better one than the factory when they repaired the motherboard, my PS4 Pro 1st revision have always been super quiet, it only spins up a bit for very little time and goes back to silent and I even have the back of it pointing my face, my friend PS4 Pro 1st revision for example is jumbo jet loud (but I know theres 2 different fans too and one louder than the other)...
Last edited by guily6669,
Why are you guys not using liquid metal, shouldn't that maximize potential gains? Or not worth the chance or getting some on the board since it's conductive?
I bought Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut which is probably the current best safe thermal compound, but never tried it yet, I don't even use the Switch, but that's what I'm gonna use... Also I'm waiting for copper plate coolers and other stuff to arrive for months already which I want to see if I can put on any of the bigger chips inside the motherboard, I also want to mod my PC GPU cooler (specially cool the GDDR5 chips to push them to the max 9000mhz)...
I bought 3 thermal grizzly Kryonaut 1gr, 1 for switch, 1 for the GPU and one for my CPU, on the PS4 I used Artic MX-4 which I have a lot of it, its way cheaper and works pretty good and I never also had any thermal problems in it neither I have it modded so can't OC either...
I bought 3 thermal grizzly Kryonaut 1gr, 1 for switch, 1 for the GPU and one for my CPU, on the PS4 I used Artic MX-4 which I have a lot of it, its way cheaper and works pretty good and I never also had any thermal problems in it neither I have it modded so can't OC either...
Because LM is only liquid over 10C.
Here in winter times it can be -15C, so its not usable.
Hmm I would argue that if the components of your Switch are maintaining -15c while in play it doesn’t matter what you use for thermal control. If however your unit heats up to above 10c during use then LM is ideal.
I don't know exactly how it affects, but the recommended operating temperature is >10C.
Another point against LM is: if you drop the console it could be that LQ is dispersed in the switch. Would be too risky for me. I think it's great for stationary devices, but not for mobile things that move a lot.
Another point against LM is: if you drop the console it could be that LQ is dispersed in the switch. Would be too risky for me. I think it's great for stationary devices, but not for mobile things that move a lot.
That's what I also said quite a lot of posts back and the main reason why I don't use liquid metal on something that goes running with us, jumping, maybe a small fall here and there for some ppl and so on...
However like I said you should always cover all the SOC surrounding with a protective layer so if it spills at least on that area it won't do any harm...
Anyway I'm simply happy with the Thermal Grizzly thermal conductivity which is enough 4 me even though I still even haven't tested it... In fact I was always happy with Artic MX series which I have been using for like a decade and always worked amazing, this newer one will probably be a bit better though I have no clue if it lasts in good condition as the Artic MX too...
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CameronCataclysm
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Mondooooo:
and my right eye is bloodshot from lack of sleep but damn. the full moon with the clouds is beautiful -
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CameronCataclysm:
Why no blog posts about Nitendont going after Garry's Mod repos that have been up for a decade or 2?
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