I'm pretty sure I know how it works as I've been working with frep to design it, and also I have a rev 1 board he made. You don't need an IC to turn it off, the circuit is using a latch and if you look at what pin D4 does to the transistor it's connected too - just saying!
I'm pretty sure I know how it works as I've been working with frep to design it, and also I have a rev 1 board he made. You don't need an IC to turn it off, the circuit is using a latch and if you look at what pin D4 does to the transistor it's connected too - just saying!
In general, you are correct. But in this case, the board behaves like @mrdude said. The powering of the board is controlled by the enable pin of the voltage regulator. The input voltage is permanently connected to the battery voltage, but the board is only powered, once the enable pin is set to high. This can either be achieved by pressing the two buttons or by connecting the usb. Compare for that the schematic, or tell me if I haven’t explained it well (english is not my native language), then I can try to explain it again.
@mattytrog THANKS for sharing the ItsyBitsy Files!
finished my ItsyBitsyTinyPayloadThingy
i took a broken bluetooth controller and salvaged its 180mah battery (yeah i know its complete overkill), sandwiched it between a charging board and the itsy bitsy, connected a switch in between the charging board Output and the BAT Pin. The Charging Board gets its Power from the USB Pin. I Also only had to connect the charging Boards GND to G on the ity bitsy. Normaly i would use the GND Wire to put a switch in between but this way i would have had to press the Button all the time for charging... pretty inconvinientaaand of course designed and printed a "case" for it. I like the "DIY" look so i dont put lids on both sides (only a little bit on the itsy bitsy side to keep it in place) the rest of the case is a pretty tight fit. didnt had to glue except for the tactile switch.
I ordered some USB-C male breakout boards and will add a proper connection to it as soon as they arive. there is a little space between the wires of the switch. i will try to keep it as compact as possible.
Hope to see some more updates for it
as i came across this whole diy payload injector stuff with this thread... here is my own quote in another thread.
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I don't want pay 15 euro just for a trinket m0
then use your android phone. pc, or laptop to send payload via tegra...
There are plenty of options make your own or buy a cheap one.. there is plenty of information on here and members @MatinatorX and @electronrancher are or have made some lovely payload injectors /dongles...
If you dont pay you do not get simple as that..
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Jesus Christ, if you're going to say "no" at least give reasoning as to why you're saying no.
@gianm93, I see it has USB interface and 5v hookup for a external battery, if using a disposable battery that and a female USB to male USB type C should be all that's needed(hardware-wise), if using a lipo rechargable battery you might need a seperate microcontroller for charging the battery(unless you can charge it via USB from the DigiSpark itself?). To me it looks like you can use this for what it needs to do. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.
That attiny85 chip doesn't have usb controller capabilities, unlike the atsamd21, also it has less flash memory for storing payloads. That's why I'm saying NO - also this question has previously been asked and answered.
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OK, that's good to know but not everyone will know that question was answered before so it would've been nice if you could've elaborated on your answer or quoted the post with the answer, that's all. Thanks for the explanation though.
Hi guys. I'm fairly new to this all and just trying to find my feet.
I've purchased a switchme.
This is the instructions I got from the site:
Auto RCM Strapping – 5-6 wire install
Software Auto RCM – 4 wire install
Normal Mode – 4 wire install
Auto Payload injection after reboot – 5-6 wire install
If no Auto RCM Software or Strapping used you will either need to use a jig or solder pin 1-10 on the right joycon.
It looks like it can do 4,5,6 wire install
Do you have a link to the 5 and 6 wire install?
When it says auto RCM not required , is that a setting to be adjusted when adding payload?
If I do a 4 wire install. Will I need to reload payload after switch goes to sleep?
I've purchased a switchme.
This is the instructions I got from the site:
Auto RCM Strapping – 5-6 wire install
Software Auto RCM – 4 wire install
Normal Mode – 4 wire install
Auto Payload injection after reboot – 5-6 wire install
If no Auto RCM Software or Strapping used you will either need to use a jig or solder pin 1-10 on the right joycon.
It looks like it can do 4,5,6 wire install
Do you have a link to the 5 and 6 wire install?
When it says auto RCM not required , is that a setting to be adjusted when adding payload?
If I do a 4 wire install. Will I need to reload payload after switch goes to sleep?
Last edited by Drillakilla,
I've had a look on this page here:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ybitsy-m0-express-guide-files-support.508068/
Method 2 doesn't appear to go to the joycon part as used on jig, but a pin on main circuit, is my understanding correct?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ybitsy-m0-express-guide-files-support.508068/
Method 2 doesn't appear to go to the joycon part as used on jig, but a pin on main circuit, is my understanding correct?
@Drillakilla Those are test points for the rails. So if you pull it low, it is the same as pulling pin 10 low on the rail.
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