Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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taxco

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thx, failsafe is better.

i tried all 3 boot priority setting, but non works.
see my settings.
Post automatically merged:

thx, failsafe is better.

i tried all 3 boot priority setting, but non works.
see my settings.
Another few hours later, messing with it.
I think you always need VOL+ strap.
The priority setting is what trinket should first load when power btn is pressen ( vol+ strap connected )
Post automatically merged:

E: I might be wrong about the Vol(+) and ability to autoboot CFW.

…from the README:




Vol(+) is not absolutely required to do this. not sure about this after reading the above statement

The latest V9 software is only supported via the docs @mattytrog has kindly provided on GitHub. Most folks here will not likely have installed it as the earlier versions just work. Of that subset of people, even fewer will have done it without the Vol(+) button.

latest software, limited user base, limited support and without the configure strap = you are doing this one on hard mod.

Since you are not installing Vol(+) you will need to pre-load all you settings in advance.

I’ve done extensive research into how to do this with V6/7 but have not looked into the new V9 series. It does look similar but there are some new terms I’ve not played with.

Fortunately the instructions on how to do this for V9 are located here:

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE/tree/master/Fusee-Suite/SETTINGS_UF2
Did you write this, about the V9 and extensive research into how to do this with V6/7.
If you know how i can do it using V7, permanent CFW with out the VOL+. plz tell me.


Update!
Got tired of searching and i installed the strap Vol+, now its boots to cff with the power btn.
Strap VOL+ is needed for permanent cfw.
 

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thx, failsafe is better.

i tried all 3 boot priority setting, but non works.
see my settings.
Post automatically merged:


Another few hours later, messing with it.
I think you always need VOL+ strap.
The priority setting is what trinket should first load when power btn is pressen ( vol+ strap connected )
Post automatically merged:


Did you write this, about the V9 and extensive research into how to do this with V6/7.
If you know how i can do it using V7, permanent CFW with out the VOL+. plz tell me.


Update!
Got tired of searching and i installed the strap Vol+, now its boots to cff with the power btn.
Strap VOL+ is needed for permanent cfw.
So VERY glad you soldered the Vol(+) strap in. It’s not required in general but for what you wanted to do specifically, it is required.
One thing.
The standard TRINKET.UF2 is FailRCM set default.?
Unfortunately @mattytrog is not here to tell us what he did so you’ll have to reverse engineer it to find out. You might be able to compare the default trinket.uf2 and a blank.uf2 using a hex editor. There will most likely be a section that matches the pattern of settings style hex digits in the trinket.uf2 file.
 
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So VERY glad you soldered the Vol(+) strap in. It’s not required in general but for what you wanted to do specifically, it is required.

Unfortunately @mattytrog is not here to tell us what he did so you’ll have to reverse engineer it to find out. You might be able to compare the default trinket.uf2 and a blank.uf2 using a hex editor. There will most likely be a section that matches the pattern of settings style hex digits in the trinket.uf2 file.
Oke thx
 
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Has anyone installed the seedstudio Xiao samd21? I put one in last night but noticed the green and amber LEDs stay on and no real activity was shown as far as injection on any led. I have removed them for now so I do not vampire the battery. I lost 3% of battery over 6 hours in sleep mode as a test. I believe this is considered normal.
 
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Anomaly_XB-6783746

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I did the trinket install with mostly the alternate points on the back but now my switch won't turn on. Whenever I press the power button, the RGB led on the trinket just quickly blinks green one time and then nothing happens, the screen just stays black.. I paid attention to not bridge anything etc so I am really clueless what went wrong.

Does any of you have some tips on how to start troubleshooting?
 

Hayato213

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I did the trinket install with mostly the alternate points on the back but now my switch won't turn on. Whenever I press the power button, the RGB led on the trinket just quickly blinks green one time and then nothing happens, the screen just stays black.. I paid attention to not bridge anything etc so I am really clueless what went wrong.

Does any of you have some tips on how to start troubleshooting?

Post pictures of your soldering.
 

Anomaly_XB-6783746

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Currently only possible to take a picture of the front as I have to remove the PCB again.. Will post it later once I had the time for it.

What I also noticed is after I turn on the console and the screen stays black, the LED of the trinket blinks red whenever I press the VOL+ button
 

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binkinator

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Currently only possible to take a picture of the front as I have to remove the PCB again.. Will post it later once I had the time for it.

View attachment 351486

What I also noticed is after I turn on the console and the screen stays black, the LED of the trinket blinks red whenever I press the VOL+ button

Something is shorted. Visually inspect (again), especially around the (Vol +) wire area. Look for splatter that you might have missed outside just the one joint.

I would start by removing the wires from the trinket side one at a time until you can get it to power back on by itself. I would start with the (Vol +) wire then power (+) and then (gnd). Hopefully it’s one of these three and you won’t have to undo everything. Be sure to test after each wire removal so you know which one “fixes” things.
 

Anomaly_XB-6783746

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Something is shorted. Visually inspect (again), especially around the (Vol +) wire area. Look for splatter that you might have missed outside just the one joint.

I would start by removing the wires from the trinket side one at a time until you can get it to power back on by itself. I would start with the (Vol +) wire then power (+) and then (gnd). Hopefully it’s one of these three and you won’t have to undo everything. Be sure to test after each wire removal so you know which one “fixes” things.
Ok thank you, I will try that and report back
 
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Ok thank you, I will try that and report back
Oh…also look for components you might have singed with your iron just to the side of where you were working. I fried a chip resting my iron on it while I worked.

…also look for components you might have completely knocked off. It happens! Shit’s tiny yo!
 
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Anomaly_XB-6783746

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Something is shorted. Visually inspect (again), especially around the (Vol +) wire area. Look for splatter that you might have missed outside just the one joint.

I would start by removing the wires from the trinket side one at a time until you can get it to power back on by itself. I would start with the (Vol +) wire then power (+) and then (gnd). Hopefully it’s one of these three and you won’t have to undo everything. Be sure to test after each wire removal so you know which one “fixes” things.
Okay so I did now check for shortings but was not able to find one. But what I found was the ground connection being loose. With this fixed, the only thing which improved is that there now is backlight (see picture one) but the screen stills stays black..
Also does not look like there is some fried component.

On picture two you can see a ribbon cable which does not fit 100% in the connector because of two wires, but it looks like all the contacts still are connected, so I am also not sure if this is related.
 

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binkinator

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Okay so I did now check for shortings but was not able to find one. But what I found was the ground connection being loose. With this fixed, the only thing which improved is that there now is backlight (see picture one) but the screen stills stays black..
Also does not look like there is some fried component.
Great. One less thing to hunt down in the future.
On picture two you can see a ribbon cable which does not fit 100% in the connector because of two wires, but it looks like all the contacts still are connected, so I am also not sure if this is related.
I pulled mine through on that space closer to the fan. See the gap over to the right?

At some point you’re going to have to undo;dee somethings, hopefully on just the Trinket, but maybe on the mobo side as well?
 
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Hayato213

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Okay so I did now check for shortings but was not able to find one. But what I found was the ground connection being loose. With this fixed, the only thing which improved is that there now is backlight (see picture one) but the screen stills stays black..
Also does not look like there is some fried component.

On picture two you can see a ribbon cable which does not fit 100% in the connector because of two wires, but it looks like all the contacts still are connected, so I am also not sure if this is related.

Most people don't do alternate point for the trinket, it work better the shorter the wires, also reseat your ribbon cable.
 

Anomaly_XB-6783746

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Great. One less thing to hunt down in the future.

I pulled mine through on that space closer to the fan. See the ga- over to the right?

At some point you’re going to have to undo;dee somethings, hopefully on just the Trinket, but maybe on the mobo side as well?
I think I will start with rerouting 3v and usb disconnect (red,yellow) to the gap you mentioned so the ribbon cable perfectly fits again. Maybe I should also use thinner wires
 
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I think I will start with rerouting 3v and usb disconnect (red,yellow) to the gap you mentioned so the ribbon cable perfectly fits again. Maybe I should also use thinner wires
Make sure you test booting in between every wire you remove. We don’t know which one might be causing the issues. Leave them disconnected and keep trying to reboot. Don’t start wiring back up until it boots cleanly.
 
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