yes thats the full wiring diagram , only ths the current challengeSo does that mean we know have the right info to do an install
yes thats the full wiring diagram , only ths the current challengeSo does that mean we know have the right info to do an install
Yes, you can do the install but I'm sure there will be a better guide with altivernative solder points that don't require to lift the eMMC.So does that mean we know have the right info to do an install
CTC said he will release the fix this week, but AMS doesn't fully support aula btw.Yes, you can do the install but I'm sure there will be a better guide with altivernative solder points that don't require to lift the eMMC.
Also another thing that might cause problems, is the current public build of Hekate - all the working versions running on OLED switches, seem to be non public builds, handed out by CTCaer.
There is no rush here - the current method of modding it is barely a PoC.CTC said he will release the fix this week, but AMS doesn't fully support aula btw.
There is no rush here - the current method of modding it is barely a PoC.
I'm sure the modchip design will be adapted to the OLED PCB changes and once this happens, I'm sure Hekate and AMS are running 100% on this unit.
Aren't they clear enough?Does anyone know how to contact the person who posted those pictures. A larger picture of the overall board from them would be very useful
I wonder if there is an alt point
I assume this will be the limiting factor for most. Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.I wonder if there is an alt point
I will be getting the installation done soon. My installer will be filming the full procedure. The only thing is if it's better to purchase a core chip and leave my lite chip which I was hoping to use.I assume this will be the limiting factor for most. Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.
The only point I can't really see well is the D point on the mobo. I'm sure better pics are coming.I will be getting the installation done soon. My installer will be filming the full procedure. The only thing is if it's better to purchase a core chip and leave my lite chip which I was hoping to use.
same here; I was initially waiting for the installation pictures but after researching to pass the time it quickly flipped around to wanting to find the install points myself. even with the existing pictures, I will probably have a go at mapping it out on my own once I am able to get a consoleI assume this will be the limiting factor for most. Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.
I don't get what the the writing means though if their any translators here please tell me.The only point I can't really see well is the D point on the mobo. I'm sure better pics are coming.
probably its only dat0 thats missing theres probably a test point somewhere just didnt bother fully checkingI wonder if there is an alt point
First paragraph translated:I don't get what the the writing means though if their any translators here please tell me.
What Is The words he put on the photos. He put writing with a positive sign and a negative.First paragraph translated:
The cracking principle is the same as that of the old large version, because the CPU is the same. Find the corresponding 4 points on the motherboard, and fly the line to the sx chip. The idea is not complicated at all, and the ordinary fly line has no technical content. The most difficult thing is to fly to point C to remove the BGA font chip.
We already know this so...
Not sure but you can clearly see the differences in the chinese characters. Simply match them up so you don't mess up. I'm assuming ground, not to sure yet. Ones a + and ones a - per pic.What Is The words he put on the photos. He put writing with a positive sign and a negative.
Maybe some silver conductive is enough, in order to 'glue' a hair of (enameled) copper wire to the C ball?