Hardware PS3 Fat HDMI Issue

[LeChucklas]

Hi, I've recently purchased a CECHC03 backwards compatible PS3, it was effectively dead. I've de-lidded both CPU/GPU and reflowed them and its now working beautifully, temps are cool across the board and I've been gaming on it trouble-free for a couple weeks...except for one issue.

When I switch it on (either via the power button or dualshock) it boots fine but there's no signal (on HDMI might I add), if I power down and boot using the double-beep safe-mode the picture then appears, I select option 1 to restart the PS3 and it boots and I play normally without any problems for as long as I want, no artifacting or anything. If I switch it off and reboot it, it also comes back on without problems, but if I leave it for an hour or more its back with the black screen no signal and I have to perform the double beep again.

First I thought the GPU needed reflowing as I may not have done it for long enough initially, however surely if the GPU was the problem going into safe-mode wouldn't help, but the double-beep method brings the HDMI picture back EVERY.SINGLE.TIME!

Somehow it seems to forget the HDMI settings when powered down for a while. I'm thinking it's something to do with the power rail, this is supported by the fact the settings are retained if powered back on after a few mins or left on standby, but if I let the board drain of power it needs to boot via safe-mode again. Is the CMOS chip responsible for remembering such things? I have replaced the battery but the chip itself might be busted?

Has anyone else come across this at all or know what would cause it? Its not a major issue, I have no intention of selling it or anything and its a fully functional backwards compatible PS3 at the end of the day that just takes about 90 seconds longer than normal to boot. But if it can be fixed I'd certainly like to get it perfect.

 

[SundayWarrior]

Check image on component cable. Maybe its silicon image ic issue

 

[ChiefReginod]

It might not be related to the issue you're currently having, but it should be noted that the BGA reflow "repair" is no longer recommended. The real cause of YLoD was discovered to be the NEC/Tokin capacitors. There are a lot of videos about this if you look it up.

 

[driverdis]

It might not be related to the issue you're currently having, but it should be noted that the BGA reflow "repair" is no longer recommended. The real cause of YLoD was discovered to be the NEC/Tokin capacitors. There are a lot of videos about this if you look it up.

reflow repairs are not recommended but at the same time NEC/Tokin is not as much of a smoking gun as everyone originally thought. Lots of work went into this thread about that https://www.psx-place.com/threads/t...apacitors-replacement-ylod-fix.25260/page-206

 

[WiiU_Funkionz]

It might not be related to the issue you're currently having, but it should be noted that the BGA reflow "repair" is no longer recommended. The real cause of YLoD was discovered to be the NEC/Tokin capacitors. There are a lot of videos about this if you look it up.

It can honestly be both. There's no one fix fits all when it comes to yellow light issues. YLOD can be caused with something as simple as a capacitor getting knocked off.

I recently had a fatboy launch model i was working on. I did the cap replacements per the tutorial you're talking about, wasn't having any luck. Decided to try to reflow as a last ditch effort before throwing it up on CL for parts, and to my pleasant surprise the reflow actually fixed it and it's running beautiful now. Unfortunately with these unless you're going about using the SYSCON probing method, you're pretty much just throwing darts at the wall and hoping something sticks. Luckily one stuck for me with this console lol.