Tutorial  Updated

ANOTHER Magnetic Reed Switch RCM Installation

[TUTORIAL] [MOD] RCM mode with just a magnet (maghax). No visible changes to the Switch or Joycon!!! v1.7 2018-06-28

Please post any improvements or clarifications you'd like to see. If this passes muster, Mods can move it to the tutorials forum if appropriate.
v1.0
- beta tutorial
v1.1
- added some more text, and links to joycon teardowns
v1.2
- added reed dimensions
- added info about side affects and charging (there are no side effects)
v1.3
- added details on magnets
v1.4
- added more purchase options for magnetic reed switch
v1.5
- added link to https://gbatemp.net/threads/f-g-joycon-mod-magnethax-switch-edition.502459/ for credit to an older magnetic switch thread and instructions
v1.6
- added advise to disconnect battery before starting soldering.
v1.7
- added a user experience link at the bottom describing some more details.
-----------------------------------
This should be a pretty solid method for installing a MAGNETIC REED RELAY into your Right Joycon. the purpose is to have a cosmetically PERFECT Switch, with the ability to launch RCM with almost no effort. You just need to have a strong magnet to hold near the bottom right corner of the right joycon while you press power and volume + when booting. There are no known side affects of this method. i.e. you can still charge, use the joycon or switch normally. It's essentially stock when there is no magnet nearby and should last forever with no risk (after installation). I'd not send it in for warranty repair with the reed switch installed though :). This is a MUCH better option than a jig if you don't mind some soldering

The tutorial requires MODEST disassembly and soldering skill.

I'm not saying my approach and tutorial is any better than what other's have done (and posted). They certainly deserve credit. However, this is what I did and I think it's the best approach. I had previously posted a PSA about "why jigs are a bad idea" as I don't agree with them generally. So here is an explanation (for the reasonably skilled solderer) to do a magnetic reed switch the way I did it.

Note that much of the tutorial text is IN the spoilers with the pictures. Don't miss it. It is always at the top above the picture. I elected to keep this pretty visual rather than text, but happy to add more if people want more detail.

It is advisable to disconnect the joycon battery before starting to solder. I didn't disconnect the battery when I did the mod. So there isn't a picture of it.

IMG_20180521_200510 tool list.jpg
I didn't include info on how to open the case beyond showing the triwing screwdriver. There are better tutorials on opening the joycon VIDEO and TEXT
The reed switch can be bought from digikey for about $0.50 each. Shipping via USPS first class mail runs about $3 for under 8oz. The reed switch is 1.8mm by 10mm (body of the switch). HERE is an option from Amazon that is bigger (2mm x 14mm)

reeds only image.jpg
Note, I used 6cm wires. I wish I had cut them to about 3cm. You will see later they were a little too long. Also, I didn't take a picture of it, but I generally use the soldering iron to melt off 1mm of the wire end for soldering. I don't usually use wire strippers on Kynar insulated solid 30AWG wire. Note this is also called "wire wrap wire" in many circles.

IMG_20180521_201804 6cm wires.jpg
This is one of the main items different from what most people have done. This approach takes less space and allows the wires to exit the reed switch from the same side toward the connector. BE CAREFUL!!! It's VERY easy to break the glass on the reed switch when bending the leads. I broke two, though they were not ruined, I didn't want them chipped. Use some tweezers or needle nose pliers to bend it about 1mm beyond the end of the glass.

IMG_20180521_202311 bend.jpg
IMG_20180521_202524 solder.jpg
The goal here is to use enough heat shrink to cover the exposed leads and solder, but little enough that it doesn't interfere with placement. I went about 1/8" beyond the electrical connections on each end of the device.

IMG_20180521_202608_resize.jpg
Sorry I didn't get a better picture here!! It will give you the idea however.

IMG_20180521_203056 shrinkage.jpg
Be careful with the foam. It actually serves a purpose protecting the other side of the flex cable from abrasion against the soldered pins.

IMG_20180521_201134 remove foam.jpg
Here are pins 1 and 10 that you want to solder to. Be VERY careful. This is a tight soldering job and you don't want to mess up. You can still back out at this point if you aren't comfortable.

IMG_20180521_201220 solder points.jpg
IMG_20180521_203056 soldered.jpg
I think this is the best place to put it. The Joycon is pretty tight once assembled but there is ample room above the PCB and wire routing location where I have stuck it here.

IMG_20180521_203156 reed installed 1.jpg
IMG_20180521_203234 replace foam.jpg
If it isn't obvious, the way you know you did it right are with the below two tests, with and without magnet, and what you should see on the screen. Speaking of Magnets: I'd consider using a 1/4" or larger rare earth or "neodymium magnet" They come in different grades N35 N42 N50 etc. The higher the number the stronger. Any of them should work. The dark brown or black "ceramic" magnets work but they are not as strong so you might consider a larger size (maybe 1/2"??). Ebay has tons of them, Harbor Freight has rare earth magnets and magnetic grabber tools. Buymagnets.com is also an option but shipping might kill it.
IMG_20180521_203724_resize no magent.jpg
IMG_20180521_203750_resize with magnet.jpg

Here is a nice discussion of specific wire lengths and soldering technique as well as a way to use the kickstand to store the magnet [Post 84]
 

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Last edited by gallymimu,

Jayro

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I'd highly advice people attempting this mod to disconnect the battery before soldering, just so nothing is powered while doing this. A glob of solder falling onto something it shouldn't, and it could short out things.
 

gallymimu

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I'd highly advice people attempting this mod to disconnect the battery before soldering, just so nothing is powered while doing this. A glob of solder falling onto something it shouldn't, and it could short out things.

Not bad advice. I did the mod with the battery installed, but it would be advisable to be safe! I'll add that to the main post.
 

Leolas123

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Nice job! Hope it works well for you!

I see you laid it in differently than I did. Does it pinch at all when you re-assemble the housing?

Yes it works very well with a small flat magnet.
I put it under the battery, the case does not force, moreover I did not tighten the screws, too afraid to break them.
I also modified my soldering iron to create a fine point.
 

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gallymimu

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Yes it works very well with a small flat magnet.
I put it under the battery, the case does not force, moreover I did not tighten the screws, too afraid to break them.
I also modified my soldering iron to create a fine point.

Very cool.

Your poor soldering iron tip hahahah.

Glad it worked.
 
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coppertj

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I have one question before I attempt this, does this require micro soldering pen or am I good with using a hobby 15w soldering pen (planning on getting micro hakko pen later this year) with maybe a fine point. I've had experience soldering in the past also since I was young so I do know what i'm doing just wondering how big the points are.
 

gallymimu

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I have one question before I attempt this, does this require micro soldering pen or am I good with using a hobby 15w soldering pen (planning on getting micro hakko pen later this year) with maybe a fine point. I've had experience soldering in the past also since I was young so I do know what i'm doing just wondering how big the points are.

This is really hard to answer without knowing the diameter of your soldering iron tip. My gut response is that you will have problems without a small tip 1mm but ideally 0.5mm conical tapered tip or similar.
 
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thaikhoa

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is that a type C cable with a magnet built in if so where did you get it and does it have th 56k ohm resistor so that it is "switch safe" ?

Yes it is. It's ZMI, a brand of Xiaomi. No, you don't need any resistor to make it stable due to the nature of reed is to short temporarily.
 

weatMod

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Yes it is. It's ZMI, a brand of Xiaomi. No, you don't need any resistor to make it stable due to the nature of reed is to short temporarily.
xiaomi is great , i love their stuff
but i was not talking about the reed switch
i was talking about the type c cable itself
i assumed you were aware that it has been said that type c cables need to have a 56k ohm resistor built into them to be used safely with the switch
to prevent the voltage regulator from burning up alla the 3rd party dock flaw
i guess so far there has not been any real evidence that this is happening but it is widely suggested to use only USB type C cables that have a resistor in them to be sure you don't fry your switch
 
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thaikhoa

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xiaomi is great , i love their stuff
but i was not talking about the reed switch
i was talking about the type c cable itself
i assumed you were aware that it has been said that type c cables need to have a 56k ohm resistor built into them to be used safely with the switch
to prevent the voltage regulator from burning up alla the 3rd party dock flaw
i guess so far there has not been any real evidence that this is happening but it is widely suggested to use only USB type C cables that have a resistor in them to be sure you don't fry your switch


I have zero issue when using the cable. I reckon it does have kind of resistor you are talking about because it has a built in led in the usb c port itself. Anyway, transfering data from my android phone to the switch works perfectly.
 
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einfachGaer

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Well, had some problems fitting everything in... Left the wire way too long, since in most cases you can't have too much wire!...:rolleyes:

SJagQ6E.jpg
But it works!
Z9yi4xx.jpg
HVmgvkZ.jpg
Also good fun working with that nice and awesome gigantic iron tip!
eGRARt8.jpg
 

Rasa39

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Nvm, I was being an idiot, was pressing vol- instead of vol+ because I'm a genius!!
Thanks for your tutorial, there are many like it, but this one is yours. So thanks :)

Left my original message if anyone wants to lulz at the noob mistake I made.

Original:
I'm having a bit of an issue, I got everything soldered in properly and using a magnet provides the same result as everyone else is having (no magnet=charging, magnet=wireless)

Yet for some reason I can't get into rcm when using this method. If I place the magnet on the joycon, making sure it is activating the reed switch, then try to boot (or reboot) my unit, it loops the nintendo logo 3 times before showing the switch logo and booting to dashboard.

Any ideas?
 
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bandicoot37

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i've build something similar with a Hall Effect Sensor IC it's need 3 solder 1 to VCC , 1 to Ground and other to pin 10 ( + need to glue a small part inside near to SENSOR )
hall.jpg
 
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gallymimu

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i've build something similar with a Hall Effect Sensor IC it's need 3 solder 1 to VCC , 1 to Ground and other to pin 10 ( + need to glue a small part inside near to SENSOR )

Why did you decide to use a hall sensor instead of a reed switch? Or, is that just what you had around/decided to use.
 

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