Hacking SWITCH NOOB PARADISE - Ask questions here

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so it looks like my switch isn't vulnerable :(

i bought a mod chip now on a whim lol (i cant send a pic) but it looks like it has an rpi2040 on the larger cable thing

before i send it and the switch to someone who can install it, do i need to flash it or do anything with it ?
If you really has no experience with flashing microcontrollers let to someone else do all the job if you have experience you can use the thread https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/ as source of information.
 
Help me with resizing SD partition to a bigger one.

Hi, I just bought a bigger SD card and I was in the process of changing the smaller one to the new one, when I saw that the last owner had made the partition only 12gb, so I have been trying to resize the partition to a bigger one. I did it using partition master but when I put the card on the switch it still appears as only 12gb, so I am again at square one. Could someone give me some indications, I have been searching on the internet but I am starting to lose my mind not finding a clear answer of what to do. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Hi. I wanted to ask if there was someone who could help me. I'm trying to put the firmware in my hwfly chip, but when I connect it to my PC, a blue light comes out and then a yellow light appears that flashes 3 times, I guess it doesn't detect my chip my pc. And when I try to flash, I get that no device has been found. Please help.
 
How could I put folders in Homebrew menu to group games, emu, or util inside?

Some folders are shows but others not. Some nro inside folders looks in main row but not inside folder

Is there some clues?
 
Help me with resizing SD partition to a bigger one.

Hi, I just bought a bigger SD card and I was in the process of changing the smaller one to the new one, when I saw that the last owner had made the partition only 12gb, so I have been trying to resize the partition to a bigger one. I did it using partition master but when I put the card on the switch it still appears as only 12gb, so I am again at square one. Could someone give me some indications, I have been searching on the internet but I am starting to lose my mind not finding a clear answer of what to do. Thanks in advance for any help.
The best you can do is to backup your current card on your PC, then format it OR use a new one.

In order to backup your Card you MUST to copy all files on the visible partition to a folder on your PC. DO NOT FORMAT THE HIDDEN ONE IF WINDOWS TELL YOU IT NEEDS FORMAT. Then backup your EmuNAND, for that:
  • If your EmuNAND is Raw Based, you can use the EmuTool to convert the current Raw Partition to a set of Files on your PC.
  • If your EmuNAND is File Based it's already backed up with all files on your card.

Now you must decide which type of EmuNAND the «new» card will use:
  • If you go for Raw based, restart your console to Hekate, then using the NAND tools format the card and create the RAW partition. Then use EmuTool to restore the previous backup folder to the new RAW partition.
  • If you want to use file based one (for me works better and make future migrations VERY EASY) do not create reserved space and format all your card with a unique partition. simply copy the EmuNAND backup to your SD Card to SD:/emuMMC/SD00/eMMC
  • Start the console with the new card and go to NYX and go to emuMMC manager and activate the new EmuNAND. now you can start your console.

Always is good idea to format and test your Card before start the restore process, first format it to fat 32 using fat32 format (https://gbatemp.net/download/gui-format.33869/) then test your sd card using H2Testw (https://www.heise.de/download/product/h2testw-50539) So you are sure your card is working perfect.
 
Last edited by impeeza,
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quick question boys v1 and v2 parts are interchangeable? i bought a broken v2 set rly cheap and it turns out the console itself is working in the dock but it has a broken screen or board because the screen is not turning on at all so i was thinking about quick swaping board to v1 unit to test it how bad of an idea is it ^^?
Also if someone knows what socket is used for the touchscreen ribbon it would be nice to know because someone broke off lever on that v2 unit from that socket :X
 
Last edited by Lamcza,
quick question boys v1 and v2 parts are interchangeable? i bought a broken v2 set rly cheap and it turns out the console itself is working in the dock but it has a broken screen or board because the screen is not turning on at all so i was thinking about quick swaping board to v1 unit to test it how bad of an idea is it ^^?
Also if someone knows what socket is used for the touchscreen ribbon it would be nice to know because someone broke off lever on that v2 unit from that socket :X
mostly yes, the bigger change between V1 & V2 was the chip revision but the board is almost the same.
 
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mostly yes, the bigger change between V1 & V2 was the chip revision but the board is almost the same.
nice thx

i was wrong about socket its not for touch screen lol i think is for power? : P (red arrows :D ) is this a power socket for a screen? because it is missing leaver on it in this v2
if someone know name of the socket it will be nice because maybe i can stick there new leaver xD

1725606781517.png


Edit: ok nvm lcd socet if quacek up 2 or more pins are pushed out of place ehh :P
 
Last edited by Lamcza,
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QUESTION FROM A NOOBE
(who f*cked up her sister's switch, I beg you please help me! T-T)

Hi, I installed a Picofly RP2040 V1 on a patched SWITCH.
At first, it worked well. But after a few hours, my switch stopped working.

The screen stay black and the LED of the picofly only shows blue light flashing from it's led.

So I removed the picofly set up entirely, but the Switch still doesn't power on.

I figured out the following:

- Firstly, the left capacitor (named B on the picture) where I connected my picofly V1 died (no color visible in the middle)

- Secondly, when checking the Ohm value of the capacitor around, I figured out the one on the left (named A on the picture) show 0Ω when I use my Multimeter on both its sides.


So here are my questions:

- If I try to replace them, what are those capacitor references to buy some?

- Will it works if I use those one from Aliexpress {item/1005006048549738.html} (copy in picture Capacitor ref X5R 0201 1UF 10% 6.3V)?

- Should I replace the one with 0Ω as well, or it is expected to show this value?

Many thanks for any help you can give me. :bow:

switch.png

1725696676464.png
 
Last edited by Yokomala,
My Switch has started displaying a low power message as soon as it gets to 25 percent power and automatically going into sleep mode. This isn't really a problem as i can just press the button and turn it on again or plug it in but it is new. It never used to do this. It used to be at like 10 or 15 percent or something and it also didn't automatically go to sleep. Anyway, no big deal but just curious why or if this is a sign of a problem.

EDIT: Doing some reading it seems the issue is probably battery is not calibrated properly and i should charge it 100 percent then drain it 100 percent then charge again. I will give that a try.
 
Last edited by baobao43,
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My Switch has started displaying a low power message as soon as it gets to 25 percent power and automatically going into sleep mode. This isn't really a problem as i can just press the button and turn it on again or plug it in but it is new. It never used to do this. It used to be at like 10 or 15 percent or something and it also didn't automatically go to sleep. Anyway, no big deal but just curious why or if this is a sign of a problem.

EDIT: Doing some reading it seems the issue is probably battery is not calibrated properly and i should charge it 100 percent then drain it 100 percent then charge again. I will give that a try.
Unless you had running some unsupported linux or deleted calibration is not likely you battery got uncalibrated.
You can run CTCaer's "Battery Desync Fix": https://github.com/CTCaer/battery_desync_fix_nx
 
My Switch has started displaying a low power message as soon as it gets to 25 percent power and automatically going into sleep mode. This isn't really a problem as i can just press the button and turn it on again or plug it in but it is new. It never used to do this. It used to be at like 10 or 15 percent or something and it also didn't automatically go to sleep. Anyway, no big deal but just curious why or if this is a sign of a problem.

EDIT: Doing some reading it seems the issue is probably battery is not calibrated properly and i should charge it 100 percent then drain it 100 percent then charge again. I will give that a try.
Something similar happened to my Switch once. I guess the battery gets out of sync, or something, under certain conditions. What I remember doing that fixed it for me, was to let it completely drain, until the Switch goes in sleep mode by itself. And then I booted Hekate, and let it sit on the Hekate screen, until the screen turns off for low power. I then forced turn off the Switch and tried to turn it on. If it still booted, the battery was not low enough. I waited until trying to turn it on, it only displayed an empty battery icon, and turned off the screen immediately. That's when I recharged it, and the out of sync issue was gone. Your mileage may vary, of course.
 
QUESTION FROM A NOOBE
(who f*cked up her sister's switch, I beg you please help me! T-T)

Hi, I installed a Picofly RP2040 V1 on a patched SWITCH.
At first, it worked well. But after a few hours, my switch stopped working.

The screen stay black and the LED of the picofly only shows blue light flashing from it's led.

So I removed the picofly set up entirely, but the Switch still doesn't power on.

I figured out the following:

- Firstly, the left capacitor (named B on the picture) where I connected my picofly V1 died (no color visible in the middle)

- Secondly, when checking the Ohm value of the capacitor around, I figured out the one on the left (named A on the picture) show 0Ω when I use my Multimeter on both its sides.


So here are my questions:

- If I try to replace them, what are those capacitor references to buy some?

- Will it works if I use those one from Aliexpress {item/1005006048549738.html} (copy in picture Capacitor ref X5R 0201 1UF 10% 6.3V)?

- Should I replace the one with 0Ω as well, or it is expected to show this value?

Many thanks for any help you can give me. :bow:

Hi again, I cleaned up all the board with solvent and removed the excess of tin on my solderings.

I discharged the capacitors with my Ohmmeter and waiting some hours.

Now the Switch succeed to boot on the original firmware, but the battery showed low power (shows 10% according to the Switch, and shows 3.57V on the multimeter).

So I tried to plug the Switch to the sector through the USB-C, but then the Switch shuts down and doesn't start anymore.

So I disconnected the USB-C and the battery to discharge again the capacitors on the board.

Once the capacitors are discharged and I plug back the battery (without plugging the USB-C cable), the Switch can boot again.


Now I can confirm the Switch still works but I don't know why the USB-C charging make it stop to work.

Do you have any idea or tutorial for finding the issue ?


Otherwise, I find on the forum that the capacitor SP1 (named B on the picture) is not obligatory to make the Switch works but it's still recommended to replace it.

But I didn't find any information about the one on the right (named A on the picture). It still shows 0 Ohm with the Ohmmeter.

Should I replace it? What are the references of this capacitor (X5R 6.5V 10% 0201 as well?)?


I hope you can help me.


1725731883908.png
 
After successfully installing picofly v1 on my switch. How can I backup my system and create emunand? Can someone provide a link with the most update method? Btw how to can navigate picofly firmware and power it off instead of it just going to sleep mode?
 
After successfully installing picofly v1 on my switch. How can I backup my system and create emunand? Can someone provide a link with the most update method? Btw how to can navigate picofly firmware and power it off instead of it just going to sleep mode?
https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy
Post automatically merged:

more specific:
https://rentry.org/BackupRestoreNAND

and

https://rentry.org/Erista-EmuNAND
 
Last edited by impeeza,

I updated my switch and I can no longer hold R to access the other mode when I press album. How can I get out of applet mode?​

You hold R over a game, not the album. The album is an applet so even if you hold R when you press it, you will still be in applet mode. Games are not considered applets.
 

I updated my switch and I can no longer hold R to access the other mode when I press album. How can I get out of applet mode?​

To exit any applet you press the home button, By default to enter to Homebrew Loader (ON APPLET MODE) you just run album WITHOUT touching any other key, to load Homebrew Loader in full memory access mode you press R while loading ANY TITLE and do not let go R until full load.
 

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