Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[deesil]

For led, see this post below...

All for my Tiny work well now !!!

Thanks! I've been through the posts for this conversation.

I checked that resistor and it was 10k ohms. I removed it and bridged the pads with solder. I checked for continuity between the 3.3v pin/rail and the led. All seem to be okay. But when I load the firmware the light doesn't light up.

 

[chronoss]

Thanks! I've been through the posts for this conversation.

I checked that resistor and it was 10k ohms. I removed it and bridged the pads with solder. I checked for continuity between the 3.3v pin/rail and the led. All seem to be okay. But when I load the firmware the light doesn't light up.

do not bridge the pad, leave it open

 

[deesil]

do not bridge the pad, leave it open

THAT WAS IT!!!! Thank you!

Post automatically merged: Dec 27, 2023

I have a bunch of these RP2040-Tiny clone boards. This is the first one I tried to remove the 10k ohm resistor, but removed the one directly to its left as well.

For giggles, I plugged it in and it lights the same way as the one which I did not remove the second resistor.

Anybody know if this matters or what the purpose of this resistor is? Will it be a problem that it is missing? I can easily just junk the board, but if it doesn't matter I'd love to use it.

 

[jkyoho]

 

[superxoi]

View attachment 410486

hello jkyoho. i have just reballed(apu) a switch i just have bought thinking whether i could revive it. but there are 4 missing pad on the apu itself. i have marked these 4, do you know if i can get away with these 4? thank.

 

[jkyoho]

hello jkyoho. i have just reballed(apu) a switch i just have bought thinking whether i could revive it. but there are 4 missing pad on the apu itself. i have marked these 4, do you know if i can get away with these 4? thank.

I believe the missing each missing pad shares the voltage line around the pad next to them like pic I circled, and the top pad is NC. So I guess you are still ok.
You can doublecheck on the board side see if near-by pad has continuity or not

 

[superxoi]

I believe the missing each missing pad shares the voltage line around the pad next to them like pic I circled, and the top pad is NC. So I guess you are still ok.
You can doublecheck on the board side see if near-by pad has continuity or not

you are right . they share the same voltage line. thank you.

 

[psycho-neon]

Hi!

Does anyone knows what might be the resistor value if this for oled? Its near the lcd connector. I accidentally knock it off when I dropped the tweezer.

 

[deesil]

View attachment 410486

Yeah, I'd seen this diagram. This is the clone RP2040 Tiny. It's got the 10k resistor at R5. I didn't expect that removing it and leaving the pad open would be the solution though. @psycho-neon even explicitly said to bridge the pad. But also I may have misunderstood.

Any idea why it works with the resistor removed and the pad open? I would think that would leave the DIN open and prevent signal from reaching the LED.

I mean, it works, so that's the solution. But I'd love to know why.

 

[psycho-neon]

Yeah, I'd seen this diagram. This is the clone RP2040 Tiny. It's got the 10k resistor at R5. I didn't expect that removing it and leaving the pad open would be the solution though. @psycho-neon even explicitly said to bridge the pad. But also I may have misunderstood.

Any idea why it works with the resistor removed and the pad open? I would think that would leave the DIN open and prevent signal from reaching the LED.

I mean, it works, so that's the solution. But I'd love to know why.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The bridging i was talking about was the resistors for pin 27 28 29 for dat0, cmd and clk point. For LED it should be left open for clone ones.

 

[deesil]

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The bridging i was talking about was the resistors for pin 27 28 29 for dat0, cmd and clk point. For LED it should be left open for clone ones.

No worries at all. Thank you for the info. It all leads to the answers.

Why are you suggesting bridging those resistors. Would that be if they were the wrong size? I currently added 47 ohm resistors to 27 and 28. When I measure those across their corresponding resistors I get about 100ohms. That appears to be the correct resistance. I've seen another comment that the goal is 100/100/47

 

[psycho-neon]

No worries at all. Thank you for the info. It all leads to the answers.

Why are you suggesting bridging those resistors. Would that be if they were the wrong size? I currently added 47 ohm resistors to 27 and 28. When I measure those across their corresponding resistors I get about 100ohms. That appears to be the correct resistance. I've seen another comment that the goal is 100/100/47

Chronos was only asking if he could remove the resistors and instead add 100ohm across in 1 go if he doesn't have 47ohm resistor at hand.

 

[deeps]

Hi!

Does anyone knows what might be the resistor value if this for oled? Its near the lcd connector. I accidentally knock it off when I dropped the tweezer.

View attachment 410490

It's 47k ohm

 

[psycho-neon]

It's 47k ohm

Thank you.

 

[deesil]

Chronos was only asking if he could remove the resistors and instead add 100ohm across in 1 go if he doesn't have 47ohm resistor at hand.

This makes total sense. All is right in the world and I'm grateful to you and Chronos for the help.

I've got 3 tinys prepped. 10k removed, LED lighting, and 47ohm resistors in place.

Next step is to open up a dead switch lite that my nephew dropped in a toilet and practice on the solder points on that board. I'm new at all the micro soldering stuff and just got all this for myself for Christmas. So it's good to practice on stuff that I don't care about. Lol.

Thanks again.

 

[Dee87]

I understand doing your own switch with adapter since it's waste of time and money to get the equipment and learn to reball (for most people at least), but if you are doing this as a business there is no excuse.
As someone said way back on this thread (I think it was Dee87) "If you are going to take money from people you should do a proper job".
There is also that satisfaction in being able to do that first reball where you don't screw anything up (which is worth a hell of a lot more) but I guess thats just for us "elitist nerds" as you said

Yeah that was Probally Me Xd

I agree with you (and Dee87), but I haven't heard of any installer who isn't active here doing anything other than dat0 adapters

Saidly that is Very true all the other installers that I know around here only use Adapters,I Mean okay if u use a Proper one and install it Properly they might work.

But for them its just fast cash and I had a lot of people from them reach out to me cause they where having issues with there device and then had to come to me to get it properly fixed.


I just think if people pay such prices that people around my place charge (150-200€), i even heard of 250€ XD
they should get proper work done.

I charge 120 for oled with reballing and 100 for V1/V2.

 

[death7lord]

Hello to all.
I have OLED, OFW 17.0.1, and rp2040-zero chip. I use Lockpick_RCM.bin version 1.9.11 and Lockpick from a last Hekate.
But my prod.keys are missing DK "device_key" , SBK "secure_boot_key" and "tsec_key".
Hekate on screen shows DK and SBK as fffff value.
How to get this keys on OLED?

 

[abal1000x]

Hello to all.
I have OLED, OFW 17.0.1, and rp2040-zero chip. I use Lockpick_RCM.bin version 1.9.11 and Lockpick from a last Hekate.
But my prod.keys are missing DK "device_key" , SBK "secure_boot_key" and "tsec_key".
Hekate on screen shows DK and SBK as fffff value.
How to get this keys on OLED?

you'll get secure_boot_key after decrypting the partialaes.key

afaik, you'll get 2 important keys on oled, prod.keys and partialaes.key.
and another key_retail.bin, i ignored that file, just save it.

on v1 you'll get the tsec_key, and device_key from the lockpick.

 

[death7lord]

del

 

[Alanamaro]

qual é o nome e valor deste componente, switch lite