Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Takezo-San]

Thats an inductor, it is supposed to be shorted i think (if we are talking about the circled one)

Oh snap! Just when i thought i was getting somewhere. Re - the 3.3v point, thats the point im already using for the Lite!?

 

[QuiTim]

Oh snap! Just when i thought i was getting somewhere. Re - the 3.3v point, thats the point im already using for the Lite!?

My bad on the 3.3. Thats GND connected there, you are OK

 

[Takezo-San]

My bad on the 3.3. Thats GND connected there, you are OK

No probs. Got any theories on what i could be? The most I can think is either short or emmc. What ya guys thnik?

 

[BlueBeans]

Just did an install and this is the code I’m getting. Used the mosfet method. The blinks are yellow. Any help would be appreciated

 

[QuiTim]

No probs. Got any theories on what i could be? The most I can think is either short or emmc. What ya guys thnik?

I'm like 95% on emmc...if it was a short you would have bigger problems i think

 

[Takezo-San]

I'm like 95% on emmc...if it was a short you would have bigger problems i think

thanks, going to research emmc stuff. more thank likely its that.

 

[QuiTim]

Just did an install and this is the code I’m getting. Used the mosfet method. The blinks are yellow. Any help would be appreciated

Code is ==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)

 

[lightninjay]

Just did an install and this is the code I’m getting. Used the mosfet method. The blinks are yellow. Any help would be appreciated

Read the guide in my signature.

 

[Takezo-San]

Just did an install and this is the code I’m getting. Used the mosfet method. The blinks are yellow. Any help would be appreciated

==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)

 

[jkyoho]

Just did an install and this is the code I’m getting. Used the mosfet method. The blinks are yellow. Any help would be appreciated

2 long 1 short, show your mosfet work

 

[mlucianoeze]

Just get another pi pico, flash 2.74, and this time just remove the transistor for dat0 solder point in pico board, then assembled all the wire, then power on.. if like you said that your switch board soldering in fine then it should boot to sdcard screen.
Pi Pico is a rather tricky, but ive done multiple units with Pi Pico and in the process ive lost/burn/broke 4 pico boards.

yep dont add pain to yourself, buy new one as simple as that

Hello! I managed to replace the pico with a new one so I can use the latest v2.74 and now I can see the error clearly!! It's ==* which means CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet). I desoldered and re-soldered the two MOSFETs multiple times and replaced them just in case they were bad, but I keep getting the same error and then the Switch boots normally, so idk what to check.

Any detailed setup photos?

Here I attach photos of my setup, sorry if it looks a bit messy, I can guarantee that is well insulated and the MOSFETs seem well soldered (even if it's not clear in the images).

 

[lightninjay]

Hello! I managed to replace the pico with a new one so I can use the latest v2.74 and now I can see the error clearly!! It's ==* which means CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet). I desoldered and re-soldered the two MOSFETs multiple times and replaced them just in case they were bad, but I keep getting the same error and then the Switch boots normally, so idk what to check.


Here I attach photos of my setup, sorry if it looks a bit messy, I can guarantee that is well insulated and the MOSFETs seem well soldered (even if it's not clear in the images).

I'm sorry, but you need to improve your soldering skill if you want to cleanly perform this mod.

 

[mlucianoeze]

I'm sorry, but you need to improve your soldering skill if you want to cleanly perform this mod.

I know hehe, I was hoping it could work out as long as it's physically soldered.

I would love to do it better but the issue I had with the MOSFET itself is that it's really hard to keep the solder in its tiny pins, it gets out really easily when I try to solder the cables, so I end up putting too much solder in order to at least keep it there. Also, if I'm too near a pin I already soldered, the temperature ends up desoldering it again. I lowered the soldering iron temperature but helped just a bit.

Any tips or recommendations for making it cleaner without ending up so fragile?

Btw I'm seriously considering replacing the MOSFET with a bigger alternative.

 

[abal1000x]

Hello! I managed to replace the pico with a new one so I can use the latest v2.74 and now I can see the error clearly!! It's ==* which means CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet). I desoldered and re-soldered the two MOSFETs multiple times and replaced them just in case they were bad, but I keep getting the same error and then the Switch boots normally, so idk what to check.


Here I attach photos of my setup, sorry if it looks a bit messy, I can guarantee that is well insulated and the MOSFETs seem well soldered (even if it's not clear in the images).

Try to check the dat0, maybe its SC with others.
In Oled i experience the same.

You might try to increase the resistor of CMD/CLK/Dat0 to around 100ohm. Usually by add another 47ohm.

 

[Takezo-San]

I know hehe, I was hoping it could work out as long as it's physically soldered.

I would love to do it better but the issue I had with the MOSFET itself is that it's really hard to keep the solder in its tiny pins, it gets out really easily when I try to solder the cables, so I end up putting too much solder in order to at least keep it there. Also, if I'm too near a pin I already soldered, the temperature ends up desoldering it again. I lowered the soldering iron temperature but helped just a bit.

Any tips or recommendations for making it cleaner without ending up so fragile?

Btw I'm seriously considering replacing the MOSFET with a bigger alternative.

jays right. It takes practise. You just have to git gud. Heres my method i did recently with a 10k pull down resistor bridging the mosfets' gate and source Covering each point in solder mask. Patience is king otherwise it won't work

 

[abal1000x]

I know hehe, I was hoping it could work out as long as it's physically soldered.

I would love to do it better but the issue I had with the MOSFET itself is that it's really hard to keep the solder in its tiny pins, it gets out really easily when I try to solder the cables, so I end up putting too much solder in order to at least keep it there. Also, if I'm too near a pin I already soldered, the temperature ends up desoldering it again. I lowered the soldering iron temperature but helped just a bit.

Any tips or recommendations for making it cleaner without ending up so fragile?

Btw I'm seriously considering replacing the MOSFET with a bigger alternative.

Just search in here theres lot of successfull mosfet alt.

This is my note (from message post in this thread):

AON7400A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch
It give false positive so cannot work reliably, one unit returned from customer with systomp can only boot to stock.

AON6414A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch

AON S36312
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6512
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6792
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

FDMC 7672
Works, Reliable, Perfect 3x3 package, Single Mosfet Install

 

[Takezo-San]

Try to check the dat0, maybe its SC with others.
In Oled i experience the same.

You might try to increase the resistor of CMD/CLK/Dat0 to around 100ohm. Usually by add another 47ohm.

did you have this ==* code?

 

[blackheartme]

Hello! I managed to replace the pico with a new one so I can use the latest v2.74 and now I can see the error clearly!! It's ==* which means CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet). I desoldered and re-soldered the two MOSFETs multiple times and replaced them just in case they were bad, but I keep getting the same error and then the Switch boots normally, so idk what to check.


Here I attach photos of my setup, sorry if it looks a bit messy, I can guarantee that is well insulated and the MOSFETs seem well soldered (even if it's not clear in the images).

for me if thats happens most of the times its the mosfets installations, try using flex v1 or v2 so much easier and took afew second to instal

 

[abal1000x]

did you have this ==* code?

Yes in oled.

I use flex cable, and double check it. Its not mosfet.
And my instinct tell me its the dat0 adapter, since i experiment on it.
And its really is the dat0 adapter.

 

[cgtchy0412]

I know hehe, I was hoping it could work out as long as it's physically soldered.

I would love to do it better but the issue I had with the MOSFET itself is that it's really hard to keep the solder in its tiny pins, it gets out really easily when I try to solder the cables, so I end up putting too much solder in order to at least keep it there. Also, if I'm too near a pin I already soldered, the temperature ends up desoldering it again. I lowered the soldering iron temperature but helped just a bit.

Any tips or recommendations for making it cleaner without ending up so fragile?

Btw I'm seriously considering replacing the MOSFET with a bigger alternative.

Buy bigger mosfet 5x6 mm package should be easy enough.
Also buy Wire Wrapping, you use all enamel and with that quality of soldering there is a high chance of cold joint in those point.
also please isolate Dat0 point from ground thats not safe at all.
Use cable jumper to isolate it.