Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,658,933
  • Replies Replies 17,050
  • Likes Likes 15
Try to remove sdcard, is it still the same?

Try to check again, maybe theres cable short or something.
When the nintendo logo shows up especially when the joycon logo shows, its the time when the voltage change. So might be something disturb the voltage line.
only the nintendo logo, the joy con does not appear
 
  • Angry
Reactions: LogicalMadness
Yes i know, right after the nintendo, the joy con appear.
So it might be when the voltage try to go under, it failed.

It just one probability, the other probability is the data corrupted.
I think the most safe one is try to update the firmware.
Still remember the first time the firmware security unlocked, it have that bug.
I couldn't run the ofw, by vol+ vol- also couldnt from the hekate bottom right menu.
Only could run the ofw from the Warmboot Fix option in Launch menu inside hekate.
i dont know what is warmboot, i search it
 
  • Angry
Reactions: LogicalMadness
First note for oled is do it very carefully, especially in clk and dat0.

I think its better to upgrade the firmware to 2.73 first. Be safe than sorry.
I temporarily installed another chip with the new firmware, it gives me this error, could it be an RTS error?
 

Attachments

  • VID_20230526_104059.mp4
    27.6 MB
  • Like
Reactions: Danook28
I don't know that, apart from reading the rating and general info available, but after some years of trying different ones you eventually end up with a brand you like.
But if you open up a 1yr old piece of equipment which has never been opened before and you see thermal paste hard as stone which crumbles like sand when you try to clean it then you know it was a sh*tty quality to begin with.
COUGH
PS3
COUGH
 
Okay thanks I will see if that helps. Although it has never failed to glitch it just takes 20+ seconds sometimes. Its very random. Sometimes it will take 2 seconds, sometimes around 10 seconds, and occasionally 20+ seconds.

I fully believe it's the flex cable
 
This has been previously discussed. As abal1000x said, caps smooth the signal. Although they seem to not matter in most of the cases it was suggested that if you play a game/app that has a high resource demand the APU might experience unexpected behavior due to these caps not being present.
I don't remember seeing any post where this happened, but then again, if it is an unexpected behavior that we are expecting how can we know what it was :D
Nice. Thank you. Out of curiosity, What's your preferred MOSFET installation method? Caps or no caps?
 
Nice. Thank you. Out of curiosity, What's your preferred MOSFET installation method? Caps or no caps?
The vast majority of us prefer to leave the caps on. Removing the caps was moreso earlier in the experimentation process when we were deciding the most efficient positioning of MOSFET's.
 
Yes, that is what i'm thinking. But I would still go with 2.73 since it has a way more advanced diagnistics. Or you could try 2.67 and then 2.73, up to you.
I agree. 2.7+ Diagnostics are a life savior. I did a V2 and was working fine, then it slipped out of my hand and was hit to the ground. Ever since it's been booting OFW. I checked the lights and it was ==*. I knew it was the G point wires because it's the most difficult for me to solder and was not happy with it. I resoldered it and now it's working fine.

In previous firmware it would have given me a blue light, I would have resoldered everything again.

This community is beyond supportive. It's amazing to be part of it going forward.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7175.JPG
    IMG_7175.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 66
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: overcode and QuiTim

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum