Picofly AIO Thread

[cicci084]

Good evening guys.
I've always used ponits as close together as possible to shorten the wires.
If it helps, I share this installation where I routed cables under the rp2040 and where you can see the wiring before installation.
By the way, PICOFLY is the bomb.
To date 15 out of 15 consoles all installed and working.

More importantly, even after a few months now, no customer has suffered damage due to explosions or fires.


Thank you all.

 

[jmmc]

I'ven searching in the forum and I've not found anything related, is it normal that RST point gives continuity with ground when battery is connected? Picofly works fine and the console boots fine, should I check wires?

Thank you in advancend.

 

[Adran_Marit]

Hi! I'm sorry if this is a dumb question or if this isn't the right place to ask, but i was wondering, is soldering required for having CFW on a OLED Switch? I never soldered anything at all, so i think i wouldn't want to risk doing it on my own and failing miserably xD Thanks in advance

Very much so and some of the points are tiny. I'm talking a whiskers width

Post automatically merged: May 25, 2023

I'ven searching in the forum and I've not found anything related, is it normal that RST point gives continuity with ground when battery is connected? Picofly works fine and the console boots fine, should I check wires?

Thank you in advancend.

Easiest way to check imo would be get an unmodded console ans do a continuity test

 

[jkyoho]

is it normal that RST point gives continuity with ground when battery is connected?

You don't do continuity test when there are voltage in the circuit. Meter will be tripped when you plugged in battery

 

[QuiTim]

Good evening guys.
I've always used ponits as close together as possible to shorten the wires.
If it helps, I share this installation where I routed cables under the rp2040 and where you can see the wiring before installation.
By the way, PICOFLY is the bomb.
To date 15 out of 15 consoles all installed and working.

More importantly, even after a few months now, no customer has suffered damage due to explosions or fires.


Thank you all.

Nice work and nice pictures. We love your twisted wire also

Post automatically merged: May 25, 2023

Knowing the theory of soldering doesn't necessarily make it easy. Then there's the added stress of knowing that you could mess up your device if you don't get it right.

I haven't used the APU pads, but I had my concerns with the CLK point on my OLED. Are the APU pads harder than that?

One thing to be aware of for anyone using this point is that you need to have a proper iron tip that only touches the point and not the whole surrounding area. If you use 370°-400° with some good flux it tins in 1second. As you said, using a high temperature and short time gives the best results here.

 

[T4kUM1X]

yes at the moment only using modchip with micro solder requirement, i do recommend to find/ commission it to chip installer / modder near your area better safe than sorry, unless youre willing to learn and risk killing your Switch, its a steep learning curve for beginners.

Very much so and some of the points are tiny. I'm talking a whiskers width

I actually don't own a switch yet, i was just wondering how easy would it be to do this, but now i am definitely gonna avoid this completely, i think xD thank you very much to both of you for helping me out tho!

 

[cicci084]

What kind of wire are you using for the mosfet?

Wire AWG 36 from aliexpress.

2) Varnished cable taken from winding 0,2mm +/-

Post automatically merged: May 26, 2023

Befor you install pico in console. Led was blue the yellow 4 time blinking???

Befor? When i flash it? Yellow.

A first boot, See with your Eyes

Post automatically merged: May 26, 2023

Wow really nice soldering job! What mm wire are you using for the mosfets? 0.2 mm twisted together?

Yes bro!

 

[blackheartme]

Correct hahahaah

you can connect it to another ground, like the SOC chasis, i do struggle like yours also

 

[cgtchy0412]

I actually don't own a switch yet, i was just wondering how easy would it be to do this, but now i am definitely gonna avoid this completely, i think xD thank you very much to both of you for helping me out tho!

Thats the spirit, its better to be confident now than desperate latter.

 

[jmmc]

you can connect it to another ground, like the SOC chasis, i do struggle like yours also

I ended doing that hahaha.

Another problem I have (idk if it’s normal) is that when launching Hekate, it’s boots fine but when I made the nand backup it showed the slow emmc mode. I rebooted and it was fine again.

Is that normal??

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[jmmc]

Use the search 'slow mode' you will found abundant information.

The usual solution is by add 47ohm resistor in the emmc line.

I did that and I only found when hekate boots.

Mine appears after doing a nand backup or emmc test.

Hekate boots quickly and ofw and cfw works fine.

 

[LuigiGad]

I have not been able to successfully complete a picofly installation using only a MOSFET. the general guide always mentions dual MOSFETs. I wonder what method you use? the double or single MOSFET? Are there any special precautions in using a single MOSFET? Thank you.

 

[QuiTim]

I have not been able to successfully complete a picofly installation using only a MOSFET. the general guide always mentions dual MOSFETs. I wonder what method you use? the double or single MOSFET? Are there any special precautions in using a single MOSFET? Thank you.

I have done 6-7 all with single mosfet. Soldering to APU is pretty much the same difficulty as flex cable.
Soldering the mosfet (if you use the 2x2mm Irfhs8342) is a bit tricky.
I would suggest you go with a bigger one (3x3mm) for starters like aon7518 or aon7506 or even bigger IRF8714 (but you have to cut the shield to fit it).
Photo for comparison

 

[LuigiGad]

I have done 6-7 all with single mosfet. Soldering to APU is pretty much the same difficulty as flex cable.
Soldering the mosfet (if you use the 2x2mm Irfhs8342) is a bit tricky.
I would suggest you go with a bigger one (3x3mm) for starters like aon7518 or aon7506 or even bigger IRF7814 (but you have to cut the shield to fit it).
Photo for comparison

thanks for the suggestion, but that's not the problem, I can easily weld on the 2mmx2mm it's just that it never starts during startup, however I'll try again.

 

[QuiTim]

thanks for the suggestion, but that's not the problem, I can easily weld on the 2mmx2mm it's just that it never starts during startup, however I'll try again.

Well then you should try with 2 because there are alot of cases here where 1mosfet did not work

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[LuigiGad]

Well then you should try with 2 because there are alot of cases here where 1mosfet did not work

that's exactly what I meant, it's not mathematical to glitch with 1 MOSFET. unfortunately I don't have time for rehearsals with all the work to do. I focus on the dual MOSFET. Thank you.

Post automatically merged: May 26, 2023

Use the latest firmware 2.73, what is the error code?

with the Fw prior to 2.73, Blue flashes endlessly

 

[QuiTim]

that's exactly what I meant, it's not mathematical to glitch with 1 MOSFET. unfortunately I don't have time for rehearsals with all the work to do. I focus on the dual MOSFET. Thank you.

Post automatically merged: May 26, 2023

with the Fw prior to 2.73, Blue flashes endlessly

So basically, there were 2 different versions of 2.72 (prior to 2.73) one of which had a problem (if was fixed in the meantime but you might have flashed the 1st flawed version).

 

[zorusgb]

So my first attempt on a Lite bought second hand particularly to test the mod was not so great. Upon power up only got a black screen, very audible choke buzz and smoke from under the APU shield. Upon inspection the G wire got detached from the MOSFET, most likely while I was soldering it to the Pico. I used 0.2mm enamel wire for that point and in hindsight I should have secured it to something before placing the shield back, 0.2 is just to stiff for that small weld. Didn't want to commit to solder mask just yet and paid for it.
The MOSFET (single 8342) got fried obviously, but surprisingly the Switch survived. After removing the Pico and the MOSFET it power into OFW just fine. The Pico seems to be fine too, at least behaves the same upon re-flash.
Hope this experience helps someone to avoid my mistakes.
FYI, I used 0.22mm bare copper wire from 14AWG speaker wire for D and S, 30awg Kynar for 3.3V and ground and 0.1mm enamel for everything else. I'm going with 30awg on the G for the second attempt (when I find time).