Tips and tricks for resoldering GPU 1uf 0201 caps?

[Fatfingers]

Hi!

After undoing a mod during diagnostics for a faulty switch I ripped off and lost one of the 1uf 0201 ceramic caps from the GPU (the left most one) I was able to find a post on here to get what cap I need and even instructions to use a hot air rework to resolder the smd cap. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or good to know things about doing this repair? Like I was assuming a lowering 320-340 temp and 30-50% air.

But what I’m struggling with is knowing what a good solder material would be. The thread (I’ll link it when I can) didn’t say what type of solder other than just regular solder but I was thinking maybe a more higher melting point solder like the lead free could be a good idea as it might help if in the future I remove the mod that only the ribbon cable comes off and not the cap…. Is this a thing? Any other advice?

Cheers

Post automatically merged: Jul 6, 2023

Here’s the thread: (url of site)/threads/what-is-the-capacitor-value-on-top-of-nintendo-switch-apu.572089/

Looks like some people choose to leave the cap off and just solder to the pads… anyone had experiences with this fix or with the cap-less fix?

 

[FAST6191]

Temperature and air amount vary wildly from setup to setup, not to mention how far away you hold the thing (hold the thing away from your hand and slowly move it towards it without changing settings, same thing just a lot hotter).

Higher melt as far as electronics is mostly is a way to get away from leaded solder (my favourite type -- wets the best and has a whole load of qualities.
For things that small you are probably going to be best off with solder paste if this is new.

Tips for it. If you can make some foil to go around around it to prevent heating of the others. Clean the areas you are soldering back to with solder wick (smear some flux on it before going in), have some kind of rod/stick to hold the capacitor down while you are soldering it (if you are using paste then it should already be on the pads and you will have a free hand), if your eyes are not good enough then do get some magnification (even just nerd flip down glasses will improve things, no need to go full microscope).

Can't speak to leaving out the cap as I have not looked at the circuit to see what it does. Empirically though then you would have thought a notable uptick in stability, lifetime decreases, charge... would have happened if it was going to pose a problem.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Hi!

After undoing a mod during diagnostics for a faulty switch I ripped off and lost one of the 1uf 0201 ceramic caps from the GPU (the left most one) I was able to find a post on here to get what cap I need and even instructions to use a hot air rework to resolder the smd cap. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or good to know things about doing this repair? Like I was assuming a lowering 320-340 temp and 30-50% air.

But what I’m struggling with is knowing what a good solder material would be. The thread (I’ll link it when I can) didn’t say what type of solder other than just regular solder but I was thinking maybe a more higher melting point solder like the lead free could be a good idea as it might help if in the future I remove the mod that only the ribbon cable comes off and not the cap…. Is this a thing? Any other advice?

Cheers

Post automatically merged: Jul 6, 2023

Here’s the thread: (url of site)/threads/what-is-the-capacitor-value-on-top-of-nintendo-switch-apu.572089/

Looks like some people choose to leave the cap off and just solder to the pads… anyone had experiences with this fix or with the cap-less fix?

Rosin core leaded solder (60/40) is always the way to go. Unleaded solder is not a good thing, it doesn't work as well. It's harder to get a good solder joint and the solder joints aren't as strong.

 

[Fatfingers]

Temperature and air amount vary wildly from setup to setup, not to mention how far away you hold the thing (hold the thing away from your hand and slowly move it towards it without changing settings, same thing just a lot hotter).

Higher melt as far as electronics is mostly is a way to get away from leaded solder (my favourite type -- wets the best and has a whole load of qualities.
For things that small you are probably going to be best off with solder paste if this is new.

Tips for it. If you can make some foil to go around around it to prevent heating of the others. Clean the areas you are soldering back to with solder wick (smear some flux on it before going in), have some kind of rod/stick to hold the capacitor down while you are soldering it (if you are using paste then it should already be on the pads and you will have a free hand), if your eyes are not good enough then do get some magnification (even just nerd flip down glasses will improve things, no need to go full microscope).

Can't speak to leaving out the cap as I have not looked at the circuit to see what it does. Empirically though then you would have thought a notable uptick in stability, lifetime decreases, charge... would have happened if it was going to pose a problem.

Cheers I’ll see if my local has solder paste or I’ll just yolo it and pre tin with regular rosin core solder

Edit: they do! However they only have a single type which is the SN63PB37 which I worry could require too much heat and result in me melting some GPU solder balls. Are there any types of solder paste that are recommended for a job like this, maybe a specific AliExpress one that has works well for peeps here?

 

[randy_w]

Why do you want to use hot air station to solder the cap? A fine bent tip at 350C should do the job, just like how you solder the sp1/sp2 SoC ribbon cable. Wet both pads with plenty of flux, hold the cap with tweezers and solder it in place.

Also if only one capacitor is missing the switch should still work, it's just a filtering cap. My friend had an oled with missing sp1 capacitor and it still works, never heard him complaining about the switch being unstable.

 

[Hassal]

Why do you want to use hot air station to solder the cap? A fine bent tip at 350C should do the job, just like how you solder the sp1/sp2 SoC ribbon cable. Wet both pads with plenty of flux, hold the cap with tweezers and solder it in place.

Also if only one capacitor is missing the switch should still work, it's just a filtering cap. My friend had an oled with missing sp1 capacitor and it still works, never heard him complaining about the switch being unstable.

Easy said than done. You must have the steadiest hands on earth to hold caps this small with tweezers.

 

[Fatfingers]

Easy said than done. You must have the steadiest hands on earth to hold caps this small with tweezers.

It depends how many coffees I am down for steadiness haha! Iron would be the better choice because it lowers risk to the GPU solder, but I have low confidence in the quality of the joint I will get with my tips and skill vs hot air. I’m pretty sure it would be fine without the cap but I do feel like it would be better to replace than to leave off the stability.

I feel like I want to use the hot air as it’s my new toy and small SMD parts tend to want to stick better to my tweezers than to my soldering jobs

 

[Hassal]

It depends how many coffees I am down for steadiness haha! Iron would be the better choice because it lowers risk to the GPU solder, but I have low confidence in the quality of the joint I will get with my tips and skill vs hot air. I’m pretty sure it would be fine without the cap but I do feel like it would be better to replace than to leave off the stability.

I feel like I want to use the hot air as it’s my new toy and small SMD parts tend to want to stick better to my tweezers than to my soldering jobs

No, hot air is the proper way to solder these small components you just need to shield off everyhting else to prevent it from toasting. Apply just a tiny paste and hit it with 360 degree at 35% airflow. 8 seconds should be enough to melt the solder and build the joint for 150-183.

360 should be safe so long its not applied for long sessions your components should be able to handle it. Don't expect to get any good results using those janky alixpress hot air stations though.