Hacking Three consoles, three choices.

Sicklyboy

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I have three working Xbox 360 consoles in my possession. I want to mod two of them, but I don't know which ones to mod.

My consoles, as follows -

1) Xenon w/ BenQ? (yellow wires), hasn't been Xclamp fixed, doesn't RROD, has the extended GPU cooler.

2) Zephyr w/ BenQ? (white wires), RROD fixed with Xclamp replacement, sure I will have to heat gun at some point, has the extended GPU cooler (since it's a Xephyr)

3) Xenon w/ Hitachi-LG? (blocked with black plastic), no RROD or Xclamp replacement, but did have to pot-tweak the drive so I am sure the laser will need replacing at some point, has the extended GPU cooler.

As far as identifying the drives, I was following this: http://www.360drives.com/howto

The two that I listed as a BenQ have the metal casing that the 3rd one does, they're the ones that say "Philips & Lite-On" on them. But console 1 has yellow wires, and console 2 has white wires. So... console 3 has the Hitachi-LG case with the wire-hole blocked with black plastic, so I am pretty sure that is what it is. But insight onto the other two?

The Zephyr I would like to RGH, which should be possible since it isn't on the newest Dashboard (it IS on the Metro one, but not the most recent version that fixed(?) RGH). The other two, I would like to drive flash one and leave the other stock. Which would be easier to flash, the BenQ (if that's what it is) or the Hitachi-LG?

Second, I don't have the money for an RGH kit yet, so I am gonna hold off on that for now, but I WOULD like to drive flash one soon. What tools would I need to do it depending on what drive I flash? I had been looking at the CK3i, but I am not clear on if that also acts as a drive PSU or if I still need the X360USB.

And another question - I want the RGH console for myself, and am gonna give the drive flashed one to my little brother. He currently also has a Xenon w/ a BenQ (iirc, at least) which I am not going to touch. I obviously don't need 3 Xboxes. So I figured we'd each keep a stock one, then I would have an RGH one and he could have a flashed one, that if I wanted to play a burned game on Live I would use that. I know RGH consoles can't ever connect to live, and that flashed ones can. On a flashed one though, as long as you're running unmodified games (burned), is one likely to get profile banned? I'm not super worried if it gets console banned (though I would rather it doesn't), but I don't want to put him on Live with it if there is a high risk of getting profile banned.

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry I have so many questions XD
 

dilav

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Yellow wire = Lite-On
Both drive looks identical, Model VAD6038 is BenQ while DG-16D2S is Lite-On.
BenQ drives would be the easiest to flash requiring nothing but a compatible SATA controller, VIA6421 chipset works perfect, I had some success with Intel ICH10, and there are surely others.
Hitachi is also easy like the BenQ, requiring a compatible chipset + depending on the model, burning a disc. These drives however are brick-able.
Most Lite-On will also require another tool. PMT hack being the latest and easiest solution. I do not know what Xectuer call their PMT solution product. Oh there is also freeze issues when erasing Lite-On drives with VIA6421, removing the VIA driver will work fine.

Dash 14714 was the first dash to block RGH. (Do not know if there were any way around this on fat consoles)

CK3i - Basically a drive PSU
X360USB - SATA controller on a easy and convient USB as well as not needing to disable driver signature enforcement to use JungleFlasher.

AFAIK unmodified backups on a flashed console does not ban a profile.

You might as well purchase a Lite-On drive iHASXX4B compatible with iXtreme Burner MAX to burn those XGD3.


I personally went the cheap method with a VIA6421, 360 to power the drive (later was rumored as not live safe, which I then built my own), and the homemade no cap PMT for Fat Lite-On drives.
 

Sicklyboy

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That's another thing I forgot to mention. Where would I find an iHAS type B burner? All the ones listed on newegg here:http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007589%2050001336%20600003707%20600003509&IsNodeId=1&name=DVD%20Burner dont appear to be a type B. Would this one on Amazon work since it has the 2MB buffer? http://www.amazon.com/Lite-On-Super-AllWrite-Layer-Drive/dp/B002YIG9AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333004054&sr=8-1

So if the CK3i is a PSU, then what is the difference between that and the CK3 Mini? That JungleFlasher can control it? Is it really a big deal?

For the Lite-On drive I am gonna need a probe, it looks like. Right, the Lite-On drive is in my primary Xbox, the one I would rather not mess with.

Would it be worth giving my on-board SATA controller and my SATA-USB adapter a shot before getting one of the VIA chipset cards?

http://www.xconsoles.com/products/xecuter-coolrunner-revb.html Would that be an okay RGH board? Does it come with the wires I need to solder, do I need to buy them separately, or would the 22Gauge wires I have here in my drawer work fine?

Thanks a bunch for the answers. Unlike the Wii stuff there doesn't seem to be a uniform method on what to do. I know of and have already looked over the JungleFlasher tutorial a few times, but that's only so helpful when you don't even know what you need in order to get to step 1 of it, lol.
 

dilav

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I have no clue about type B, the Amazon one should work and a review even say so, but stocks may change, as well as the different sellers on Amazon.

It looks like the difference between the CK3i and CK3Mini is the absence of the Mode B switch (isn't needed, alternative method) for Hitachi drive as well as automatic powering on/off to put devices into vendor mode. I haven't own any Xecuter product for the 360 besides a CoolRunner on my slim, so I am not familiar with their product.
I still flash some drives using the console to power it, they are RGH consoles so don't mine if they are flagged. If you don't have a problem with unplugging/plugging in the power cable with power on and are careful to not plug in the cable backward you may want to try this method. Be sure to plug in the component/composite cable to the xbox end to keep it from automatically turning off.

What is your on board SATA controller? You should be able to find it under Device Manager - Storage Controllers. My Intel controller did not work when it was in AHCI or RAID mode.

The CoolRunner should work without a problem, mine came with wires, but 22AWG should work fine also. There are supposely some fake ones, but I think xconsoles is a official reseller. I didn't have a problem with the cheap glitch chips on the Zephyr/Falcon/Jasper consoles. But had some issues when installing them on slims. I'm not sure why, they all use the same CPLD, might be a better design or bad install as I only RGH a single slim.
 

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