Hardware Switch won't turn on

  • Thread starter Thread starter ds34
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Well
Looks good to me except for some things

Welp, did you manage to fix this? Usually you can't just shove a BGA-component back to where it sat in the beginning.
I'd suggest you get the capacitors and resistors from Aliexpress. Usually they're a lot cheaper than those found at farnell or Reichelt Elektronik and you can even get like an assortment (50-100 values or something) for like 3 bucks.

The M92T36 looks gorgeous now except for some scratches (I know that it's still missing loads of components, but I think I can fix this Switch)

Is this a problem?
Regarding this: Check some of the pins that are on the left hand side of the package marking.
Also you shouldn't use the heat gun anymore, I guess. The PCB shows severe damaging already and it could delaminate, if you're going on like this. Only exception is, if you want to reball the BGA component from the post above. Then you could use a stencil, 185°C solder paste and try to solder it on with some flux at around 5-10% airflow with a tight nozzle.
I wouldn't be too worried about the last image, you just scraped through the solder mask by the looks of it.


Also: If you only got the Yihua/Saike/... soldering Iron, I'd strongly recommend you buy a Hakko T12 clone (Something like the T12-952). They are FAR better in regards to temperature control and a bit more 'beginner friendly', since you're able to work way more controlled with a JL02 or ILS soldering tip.
 
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Can I use a legit Hakko iron with a fake Hakko station?
What about UniSolder?
 
i guess thats working fine, just that the clone will be not as precise and steady as the genuine ones. In my Setup i use a real Station with some genuine & also cheap clone Irons. The clone ones do a good job for the price.
 
I think I will buy a Quicko T12 station and use it with Hakko irons.
Can we get back to the topic please? I really need to know more about the resistor that I lost or about how I can check that IC for shorts
 
Last edited by ds34, , Reason: Grammar.exe has stopped working
done. the other missing components should arrive tomorrow. Is there anything else that I should check before turning it on/plugging power in?
 

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Do you mean this fuse?
f47c755df605771602b3924b915af2d0.jpg


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i would now check the caps around MT & BQ and the fuse above the USB Port. and then give it a try :)
I checked caps for shorts to ground and P13USB filters
 
Yes, that fuse ..

...and Battery Charger Chip BQ is also good around? if u have a USB Voltage measure Dongle u can check how many Amp`s the Switch is taking, or in Best Case you will see a Nintendo Logo :switch:
 
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The caps arrived. I will install them onto the board in a few hours.
I am still scared to plug power in or breaking the FPC display connector.
 
Last edited by ds34, , Reason: My name is doof and you do what I say whoop whoop
Ladies and gentlemen, I made it.
This will make Louis Rossmann cry, but I´m happy.
(Actually this will make experienced people throw up, so be advised)

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@Agilato @Jabba2k12ger @Pintglass please have a look at this. I really want to turn this thing on. Should I use the original charger, a normal usb power output or battery?
 

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i will try to turn this thing on with a battery now.

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it´s making ticking noises

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it´s same as before. even the blinking green led on the docking station remained
 
I don't know, but there's no voltage on the battery pins or on pin 5/6 of M92T36
 
I got a Nintendo Switch motherboard for free...
It has a broken USB C port though...
Should I try to repair this one or the one that makes ticking noises when I plug it in?
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