Switch stuck at nintendo switch logo

hoyohoo

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Hi there, I want to fix a switch to hopefully make it as a gift to my neighbours little kid. They are not very wealthy so I really want to make him a nice gift.

So I got myself a bluescreen switch v1 (at least I was hoping that it is not patched, but it seems it is, more on that later) and started to do my work. I started with applying pressure on the apu, the ram, the emmc, bluescreen was still there unfortunately.

I then proceeded to remove and reball the apu, as the reflow did nothing. There were no ripped pads, so I tried reballing, but used sn/bi solderpaste (my first mistake) with a melting point of around 138 °C, because the stencil kept warping. So anyway, I did this, put the apu back on, still blue screen.

Next was removing the RAM, as again, reflow did nothing. Under the RAM were finally some ripped pads, a couple to be honest, but most of them were no connect / ground. Just one had to be repaired.
The RAM was reballed with mechanik 183 °C solderpaste (the regular sn/pb type) and this was very new to me. I actually started reballing with paste with this switch, before I only used balls, but they are getting harder to get in germany, as they contain lead.

Anyway, here is mistake 2: I am not sure, if the reballing went as smooth, as it could have. Maybe here lies all my problems.
Well, still bluescreen, so what can I do now? Out of frustration, I reflowed the emmc, no difference.

And now for my 3rd mistake, I took down the emmc, without first checking if I had a stencil. Naturally, I did not. So I reballed with solder balls. The only ones I had however were 0,35mm for the APU, so I did this. It was kinda too much I guess, as it squeezed out a bit on the other side of the emmc pcb. But there were no measurable shorts, so I proceeded.

Unfortunately, the blue screen persisted. In a final attempt, I removed the APU again and reballed it, this time using the new Mechanik leaded solder paste. After a few tries, I finally found the right temperature and airflow settings, resulting in perfect solder balls. I carefully reinstalled the APU, and to my relief, the console powered on! The Nintendo logo appeared, followed by the Switch logo... but then it froze at this screen and wouldn’t progress any further.

I then reflowed the wifi chip. No effect. I removed it and cleaned it with solderwick. Why? WHY DID I DO THIS? Of course the soldermask of the wifi ic just vaporized. But, not I had to buy and install a brand new chip from a well known source. And I did that, but, still no effect.

I then bought a stencil for the emmc, reballed this, knocked the tiny cap, got the right value on this forum, replaced it, and now I am back at where I was: switch logo hangs.

I am out of ideas. Do you have any?
 
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thesjaakspoiler

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There might be something messed up in the ofw.
Can you enter the official Nintendo maintenance mode?
If so, just do a full factory reset.

Is the battery also fine?
Afaik without a battery or battery readings, the Switch also refuses to boot past the Nintendo logo.

You haven't told whether it is patched or not.
If it is not patched, set up Hekate, prepare a emummc and try to boot.
Maybe something is wrong with the fuse count (which Hekate doesn't care about but the OFW does).
If it is patched, I would recommend installing a picofly.
With your skillset that should not be a problem I guess.
Then at least you can boot Hekate and look at all the stats for more indications.
 

hoyohoo

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oh yeah, sorry, I totally forgot about the patched thing. I could not inject a payload, neither with or without the emmc installed, so I guess it is patched.

The battery has around 4 volts and seems to be ok. How else can I test it? The switch only slow charges as far as I tested it. I only can use a "USB-A" cable on my multimeter, so I can only test 5V. The switch takes .40 to .44 Amps.

I cannot seem to enter this maintenance mode if I did it correctly

I would love to install a picofly, but I never did, so I have no real source to buy it from, I do not even know what exactly I need to purchase.
 

stetofix

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If the Switch hangs on the Switch logo, I would check the wifi ic again and the lines to it. At the V1 and V2 Switches there are two caps on the left side of the SoC which could cause stuck on Switch logo.
The wifi ic should be an ic from another Switch because the wifi ic needs to be programmed if new from factory.

A picofly RP2040 mod could helpfull to narrow down the issue. If you look for 'rp2040 Switch' at amazon, you will see a picofly mod chip with an "arm" which has an emmc plug .
 

hoyohoo

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Ehm, the WiFi ic was like I said brand new. I bought this one:
https://www.sintech-shop.de/wlan-wifi-chip-ic-bcm4356xkubg-passend-fuer-nintendo-switch/a-11330

I do not have any donor switch unfortunately. So I cannot just take a WiFi ic down from it.

I will check all the caps around the WiFi ic again. If they are the cause, would they be shorted to ground?

I do have an unlatched switch v1, it is mine which I use regularly. Can I check the emmc of the new switch with that somehow?

Could you maybe link a fitting picofly from aliexpress?

EDIT: Will this fit and does this have anything needed? https://www.ebay.de/itm/126603821758
 
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stetofix

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Never test another emmc modul in another Switch and power on normally. If the firmware is higher on the other emmc modul, it will cause burning the firmware fuses on start and this leads to a fuse count missmatch to the original emmc modul.

If Hekate is running and the fuses are protected, than it is possible to check/test an foreign emmc modul inside a Switch.

The both caps are not connected to GND. On the wifi side they should have the same reading and on the SoC side they should have the same reading.

I would look for a wifi ic from a donor board and solder this one to the board
Please forget this. I just read that the wifi ics are preflashed by default and not empty.
 

hoyohoo

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I havent tested the caps yet, I have an exam on wednesday 25.9. and I am short on time. And after that I have an exam on 1.10. After those two, I will have enough time.

I ordered the hwfly now from ali, as I got an incredible deal for 0.99€, so I could not say no XD
Will it not work with that aswell? I mean, this has a RP2040 as the brains too, right?
Post automatically merged:

Ok, here are the cap values of the caps I measured. I measured them in diode mode with red probe on a ground hole of a screw and black probe on the corresponding pad.

I hope my "system" is understandable

PHO00012.JPG
 
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thesjaakspoiler

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The battery has around 4 volts and seems to be ok. How else can I test it? The switch only slow charges as far as I tested it. I only can use a "USB-A" cable on my multimeter, so I can only test 5V. The switch takes .40 to .44 Amps.
I think it is safe to conclude that the battery itself is ok.
Those 2 caps pointed out by the other user might be pull up resistors for the I2C data lines that go to the battery management IC. If those are missing, just look through the forum for their values.

I cannot seem to enter this maintenance mode if I did it correctly
It's pressing both volume buttons and then power.
If that doesn't work then it might indicate that there is something wrong with the partitions or the data on those partitions.
The maintenance mode presides on one of those small partitions and usually should boot are some sort of fail safe.


I ordered the hwfly now from ali, as I got an incredible deal for 0.99€, so I could not say no XD
Will it not work with that aswell? I mean, this has a RP2040 as the brains too, right?
That should work as well but a hwfly is not the same as a RP2040.
It has a simple cpu with a dedicated FPGA to do the glitching.
But there are a ton of threads about it here.
 

hoyohoo

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I ordered this one:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007505039752.html

And it says rp2040. Or is this just so people can find this product via searching for rp2040?

Yes, I pressed both volume buttons and tapped the power button without letting the volume buttons go and the switch tried to boot normally, no service mode.
Post automatically merged:

I would check this caps:

View attachment 459787

All right, if oriented as in your pic, both caps?? have on the botton pad 0,424 V in diode mode and O.L. on the top pad.
 
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