Hacking SWITCH NOOB PARADISE - Ask questions here

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Hello all.

Is there a nintendo switch homebrew project that uses the joycon ir camera as a light gun for arcade light gun games emulation, like time crisis or the house of the dead? Thanks
 
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So I've just got my modded Switch I can install a couple of games; for example, I've installed Mario Party, Bayonetta, Kart 8 Deluxe, and Tennis Aces, but when I start installing more games, I just get these errors.
I've installed Galaxy 2 via Tinwoo, and it shows up on my home screen, but I can't open it. Then I checked in DBI via file integrity; it gives me that error.
Trying to install other games gives me error 202. Restarting the system seems to fix it, but it will just be like the Galaxy 2 game (unable to open)

NSPS are fine and tested.

I think I just have a bad SD card or a corrupt one
Here are my specs:
FW: 22.5.0
Hekate 6.5.3
Atmosphere 1.11.2
 
Hi, does anyone here have experience doing 1080p 120hz with a V2 Switch and a 3rd party Newdery Switch Dock?. I have the newest version of fpslocker and sys-dock but no matter what flags I toggle and patch after a restart I can't get refresh rates over 60 fps to populate or the display overclock wizard. Only the underclock Wizard shows and myDP link rate only shows with HBR and a red X. Also I have a TCL QM7K 144hz tv. Thanks.
 
guys can you teach me how to i transfer my games to pc. i don't want to download the games again
 
Hi, does anyone here have experience doing 1080p 120hz with a V2 Switch and a 3rd party Newdery Switch Dock?. I have the newest version of fpslocker and sys-dock but no matter what flags I toggle and patch after a restart I can't get refresh rates over 60 fps to populate or the display overclock wizard. Only the underclock Wizard shows and myDP link rate only shows with HBR and a red X. Also I have a TCL QM7K 144hz tv. Thanks.
No version of the Switch hardware supports 120hz output.
 
This is not a technical question but I am unsure where to ask random questions on opinions. Anyway, I have Twilight Princess on Wii U and Dusklight on switch. Can't decide which way to play. What is a better experience in your opinion. The only advantage of switch I can see is the switch is higher def in handheld and potentially supports more mods.
 
I am curious about these. Why do v2 flex have 2 mosfets then and how reliable is this 1 mosfet setup? Afaik, for 1 mosfet install, I need to remove the left capacitor on the xcgpu chip.

Also, does the blue line go to this point as shown in pic 4 and No wire goes to rp2040?
 

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Last edited by jetuaime81,
Okay, I got a question. I got a Switch OG model with the latest atmosphere and I believe even the latest Official Firmware 22.5.0.

I just checked and that is correct. I wanna know, I do have a Switch 2 for all my official needs and stuff, but if I want to, would it be safe for my account to boot into the official firmware on my OG modded Switch 1 and log into the eShop on my main account, or should I create a "burner" account with a different payment method only for this Switch 1? I don't really care if my modded switch console itself gets banned, but I don't want my main account getting banned. That's the important thing for me. I have too many games.
 
Hello. Can someone help please? I was on a really old CFW and I updates hekate to 6.5.3 and atmosphere to 22.0.0.
I noticed that my mmc backup was 29GB so I decided to jump into ofw and delete fortnite so I could have a smaller backup for my archives. When I reboot to hekate then "launch OFW" I get "ailed to indentify kernel! Failed to launch HOS". If I reopen hekate and do "reboot to OFW" I just get a blank black screen. How do I fix this please? Mu CFW works fine.

I am on Mariko. Thanks.
 
Hello. Can someone help please? I was on a really old CFW and I updates hekate to 6.5.3 and atmosphere to 22.0.0.
I noticed that my mmc backup was 29GB so I decided to jump into ofw and delete fortnite so I could have a smaller backup for my archives. When I reboot to hekate then "launch OFW" I get "ailed to indentify kernel! Failed to launch HOS". If I reopen hekate and do "reboot to OFW" I just get a blank black screen. How do I fix this please? Mu CFW works fine.

I am on Mariko. Thanks.
For future reference, deleting things will not make your MMC back ups smaller, as it backs up the entire partition.
 
You have to replace the digitizer and panel together, as they are fused together, unlike the V1/V2/Lite. That being said, the least expensive I've seen them is $102 on mobilesentrix. If you can't order from MS, try Amazon; they range from $108 up.

(There is a question at the bottom of this post that I'd like an opinion on from anyone)

As a follow-up, and because I get an error when trying to post a review (or post images to the review), I went ahead with MobileSentrix for a new display, which cost me ~$117 USD.

It is labeled as a "refurbished" product, which implies some amount of original hardware is present. No parts that I can determine are original. It is a third-party display from China. If the packaging wasn't the biggest tell, not having a crease in the ribbon cable or absolutely no scratches on the display does.
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As for the display itself, it works.... well enough, I suppose. When compared to an OEM OLED, the Colors, blacks, and Brightness are indistinguishable to my eyes. That doesn't mean too much, as it is subjective, and I am not super familiar with looking at OLED displays, but side by side, I couldn't tell which is which.

This is an image taken with my phone, so there is some amount of distortion. The original OEM OLED is on top.

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Where it struggled, and forgive my lack of proper terminology- but near-black scenes. These are, like, scenes that transition from black to gray. In these moments, there was some aggressive green artifacting that occurred. This was most apparent in the OLED tester video I was watching, where a scene was gently lit by a light.


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So, that is a very specific video on YouTube, but what about games? Well...

Below is a Screenshot of Metroid Dread taken on the console with the new display.

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This is the same screenshot taken by my phone of the same console's screen.

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Green artifacting appeared. Other games, like the Pikmin 1 Title screen or Tri's text bubbles in Zelda: Echoes of Wisdom, had this green artifacting.

It sucks that this screen is close to being good, but not quite there.

This doesn't seem to be an exclusive issue with MobileSentrix, as a review on iFixit's screen suggests this is just an issue with replacement displays on the market.

The display itself, the digitizer, was pristine and functioned perfectly.

Question: Would this display be acceptable enough to sell as a refurbished console, or should I cut my losses, toss the display, and wait until I can get a genuine OLED from a faulty console?

I am a bit torn since that green artifacting bugs me. A lot. It may not bug others.
 
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A friend gave his v1 switch which is on 13.20|AMS 1.2.5|S. I don't think there is a dual band setup and he uses a jig.

Whats the best way to update and the recommended firmware to use?

Thanks
 

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