Could try a 2 Surge Protectors one for the Items you wont to Power Off completely, and the second for the items you dont mind to leave on StandBy

 

I've never actually heard of anything that suits your needs.. :/. But I do have an alternative, if you're ready to put a bit of extra $$ into it. You could buy several of the below [or anything similar.]:



Have one main one. Then, plug in your others, into the main one. Then, plug in one of your consoles into the alternative, and you can turn that off, without turning off the main power supply.

If that didn't make much sense, I'll gladly retype it [or make a picture..]

Good luck finding one. :s

*Quick Edit*: Wii Blaster said it. :|

 

Well, we have different plugs here in Europe, but still I am powering nearly an entire room worth of techyness from a single outlet, mainly a PC with improvized 5.1 and dual-screen setup, two lamps and a wii.
And in what way exactly do you think chaining power strips is different from using one huge one?

 

Yes, actually. Something similar to that. A remote isn't necessary (in fact the less remotes, the better), but that's in the general area of what I'm looking for. Except for North America, as you stated.

 

Well, it may work, but again that brings us right back to two surge protectors in the same outlet panel. How curious that this is such an ordeal. You'd think such a product would be readily available. Sorry to trouble you all if we can't find a solution.

 

Outlets. It is mainly a current draw/current overload thing when they say do not stick many in one socket (better to say that then have people overload it because they messed up the maths) although I will mention the special case of the coiled adapter: a coil around a hub is an electromagnet (although without a core and at a low current it is perhaps not so useful) hence you needing to fully extend it if you plan on using more current.

Sockets will then have a current draw limit, in the UK this is 13 Amps unless otherwise stated (some workbenches are lower, some are higher but the electricity supplier will likely have had to install such a thing.

Canada mains is a bit tricky in that there are several older and newer standards, 60Hz 125V AC is the standard and current limits are 15A for type A and type B (the more common one with an Earth pin) although some places have 20A type B as well.
Just a thought but the power (Watts) is defined as current draw (A) multiplied by Voltage (V)
P=IV=current*Voltage.
Currents add up for each device (device 1 uses 1 Amp, device two uses 3 Amps then you have 4 Amps used......)

I tend to solder such things myself but have you considered a timer/similar, not necessarily for the timer but they usually come with a switch to turn things on and off (worst case scenario you have a timer "permanently" switched off and just use the switch, that way it is also hard to overload the socket).

For the record most consoles have the power rating on the back of it/on the power brick, the PS3 and 360 are the most power hungry but they only clock about 300W at most while your TV is more problematic.

A note the four most common power hungry devices are the vacuum cleaner (frequently 1000W), the microwave (650-1000W or more even), the kettle* and the space heater.
Incidentally I also find they are the devices most likely to plugged into an available power strip and cause and overload with the vacuum cleaner as wielded by [insert female of choice] being the prime candidate for such a thing.

*1 gram of water= 1cm cubed and it takes about 4200 Joules to raise the temperature by 1 degree C and an additional 2,270 Joules to boil that 1g. 250 g is a single cup so you do the maths (power is energy divided by time). This is also the reason the whale huggers try to get people to only boil the water they need.