Picofly AIO Thread

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Sure thing



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Hi everyone, i check the guide v6.3 and i see there is another way to soldering the mofset by @abal1000x ?

"Thanks to GBAtemp member abal1000x, the following diagrams are possible alternate MOSFET soldering locations, located on the rear of each board."

So we don't need now to open the cage CPU to soldering the mofset inside ?

like this for the OLED version : View attachment 385192

And the solder point of the source is right here ? :

View attachment 385199

A Big Thank You
This is nice very nice but only board I am completely disassemble is OLED and I have to open the APU cage for clk point anyways.
 
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This is nice very nice but only board I am completely disassemble is OLED and I have to open the APU cage for clk point anyways.
there are adapters where u can grab cmd clk and dat 0 from the emmc directly, altough for that u gotta take the emmc off and reflow it.
but that means permanent dat0 adapter wich is way better anyways Xd
 
there are adapters where u can grab cmd clk and dat 0 from the emmc directly, altough for that u gotta take the emmc off and reflow it.
but that means permanent dat0 adapter wich is way better anyways Xd
Yeah, this is more work and prone to errors.
 
why prone to errors ?
not more work really atleast for me cause i onle install permanent dat0 never used and will never use dat0 adapter cause using those adapter is not a proper installation.
You are right but you need to heat up a portion of the board, It may bend the board or damage the EMMC. It is too risky for my taste. I have stumble upon some problems when using DAT0 adapters but little practice it never fails rn.
 
Hi. I need to mod a V1. I only have V2 apu flex cables left (i dont have any spare mosfets). I saw a new technique ,mounting a single mosfet on the front MB. In theory i should be able to unsolder 1 mosfet from a V2 cable and use that one right? Its the same type of mosfet that everyone uses ..no?
I do realise that nobody can give me an exact answear for what I HAVE and what I BOUGHT but..yeah. in theory it should be the same mosfet?
Also i see some resistances on the flex cable. Should i worry about not having those?
Do keep in mind that i succesfully modded switches with these flex cables so they work.
 
Hi. I need to mod a V1. I only have V2 apu flex cables left (i dont have any spare mosfets). I saw a new technique ,mounting a single mosfet on the front MB. In theory i should be able to unsolder 1 mosfet from a V2 cable and use that one right? Its the same type of mosfet that everyone uses ..no?
I do realise that nobody can give me an exact answear for what I HAVE and what I BOUGHT but..yeah. in theory it should be the same mosfet?
Also i see some resistances on the flex cable. Should i worry about not having those?
Do keep in mind that i succesfully modded switches with these flex cables so they work.
Simply expend the SP1 SP2 cap hole and fit in the v2 flex into v1 Soc, and you can even cut out the end flex wiring the cpu cable to the 0 ohm resistor directly.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10138712
 
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Simply expend the SP1 SP2 cap hole and fit in the v2 flex into v1 Soc, and you can even cut out the end flex wiring the cpu cable to the 0 ohm resistor directly.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10138712
Is this what you mean?

1690562582901.png


This looks scarry cutting at this level.

Will i have problems if i have 2 mosfets on a V1? Or could i cancel out with the upper mosfet by cutting a trace? If yes,wich one. Maybe like this? My knowledge is very limited
1690562701905.png

Also could i just desolder the top mosfet and call it a day?
 
Last edited by Crung,
Is this what you mean?

View attachment 385573

This looks scarry cutting at this level.

Will i have problems if i have 2 mosfets on a V1? Or could i cancel out with the upper mosfet by cutting a trace? If yes,wich one. Maybe like this? My knowledge is very limited
View attachment 385574
Also could i just desolder the top mosfet and call it a day?
No. I meant cut of the top part(from yellow cross)
And sure you can the either one of the mosfet off the flex and use it as wish,
1690564165472.png
 
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You are right but you need to heat up a portion of the board, It may bend the board or damage the EMMC. It is too risky for my taste. I have stumble upon some problems when using DAT0 adapters but little practice it never fails rn.
That's a fair comment and I was very nervous at first but both the MMC and WiFi/Bluetooth chip take take a lot of heat and they really don't suffer..

I can appreciate that many here are nervous about using hot air and removing chips but I've seen some videos from regular installers, mainly Chinese, and they seem to throw Switch PCB's around like Bilbo Baggins' plates.
 
You are right but you need to heat up a portion of the board, It may bend the board or damage the EMMC. It is too risky for my taste. I have stumble upon some problems when using DAT0 adapters but little practice it never fails rn.
sure u gotta heat it up but if u dont put tension on the part u heat up there is no reason to be scared that the board warps.
otherwise all the boards would be bent from factory.

Dat0 adapters are no proper connections and issue are preprogrammed.

if u do a install u should know what u are doing and if u dont know how to properly use a hot air gun or a solder iron then u shouldnt be doing installs (not againt u its just in generall)

like i saide i have prob done 60+ oled by now and never had an emmc fail or a board be bent after reballing so that u say the board bends or the emmc gets damaged is unlikley if u treat the board and emmc properly.

but like i always say everybody do how the like i just hate a none proper connection.

befor u use a dat0 adapter then use the drilling method but stop usign those adapters :-)
 
Here's a picture of a WiFi chip I reballed.

The thing is made of glass apparently (it certainly looked like it when I cleaned the top of the chip).
I was convinced that it was never going to work.
I even bought a replacement as I couldn't believe it would function since it spontaneously jumped up off my workbench twice as it cooled. (I'm not sure why but I think as it cooled and contracted while being stuck to the silicone pad with flux it changed shape slightly).
It actually made a 'ping' sound when it jumped. I thought ah well.. game over. I'll just practice on this one and see what happens.

No one was more surprised than me when it worked immediately on first attempt!!

My point is that with the right tools and a sensible mindset reballing is very, very easy.
 

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Hi guys, i did the home button led mod on a switch lite by running a wire from the Din point on the back of the board to the Din point on the rp2040 zero. Now when i power the console a Blue light comes up on the home button and remain there even on atmosphere, Always on. No blinks at all, no Yellow light and even the Blue light isnt so strong. Running Fw 2.73. What can cause this issue?
 
Hi guys, i did the home button led mod on a switch lite by running a wire from the Din point on the back of the board to the Din point on the rp2040 zero. Now when i power the console a Blue light comes up on the home button and remain there even on atmosphere, Always on. No blinks at all, no Yellow light and even the Blue light isnt so strong. Running Fw 2.73. What can cause this issue?
not installing it properly , u did something wrong only proper quality pictures can help ....
 
not installing it properly , u did something wrong only proper quality pictures can help ....
Here s are two pics of the front, in the back i Just soldered on the pad that i saw on the guide. I hope this can help to find a solution
 

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Here s are two pics of the front, in the back i Just soldered on the pad that i saw on the guide. I hope this can help to find a solution
i mean quality picture , u can barley tell anything on that picture.

plus we need a picture from everything
 
i mean quality picture , u can barley tell anything on that picture.

plus we need a picture from everything
Sorry for the low quality pictures but i cant do better ones atm. Anyway im not new to soldering, the rp2040 mod ita working great since months, Just want to add this cool mod. I can confirm that the wire is soldered in the points indicated in the guide Just doesnt work properly.
 
Sorry for the low quality pictures but i cant do better ones atm. Anyway im not new to soldering, the rp2040 mod ita working great since months, Just want to add this cool mod. I can confirm that the wire is soldered in the points indicated in the guide Just doesnt work properly.
well i guess then there is nothing wrong with ur mod since u know how to mod and u can confirm the everything is soldered properly then it should work properly i guess.


but what i wonder since everything is installed properly but u only get a blue light and that constantly so how could every been installed correct?

u get my point ?

something has to be wrong otherwise it would work.
there are a few other people who got it working properly and they installed it with the guide
 

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