Picofly AIO Thread

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good comrades, oled console, the rp2040-zero chip was installed and everything worked fine, it turned on well, the iso emunad was installed, the games were installed but I turned it off and now it does not turn on and it gives this error code, does anyone have knowledge?
 

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good comrades, oled console, the rp2040-zero chip was installed and everything worked fine, it turned on well, the iso emunad was installed, the games were installed but I turned it off and now it does not turn on and it gives this error code, does anyone have knowledge?
So that appears to be 1x short and 2x long which I don't think it's mentioned in the install guide.

I had this on a v1 last week immediately after the install and I needed to re-do either the CMD or CLK wire (I can't remember which).

Edit: Actually it might've been DAT0. It was certainly one of the wires connected to a 47ohm resistor.
Are you using a DAT0 alapter or did you reball? If it's an adapter then maybe this has come loose.
 
Last edited by RedFawkes,
good comrades, oled console, the rp2040-zero chip was installed and everything worked fine, it turned on well, the iso emunad was installed, the games were installed but I turned it off and now it does not turn on and it gives this error code, does anyone have knowledge?
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
As RedFawkes said im the comment above, you probably need to redo the soldering on the wires
 
Hi all. First of all, thanks to the creator for this amazing development.

I have a problem, I am receiving a =* error code (thrice), so I think it is indicating a problem with D0, although I've checked continuity from D0 in the NAND board to the Pico, and it seems to be ok. Do you know what the problem could be? I know I have to share photos of my installation, I am out now, will do it ASAP. Meanwhile, if you have any suggestions, I am fully open.

I haven't tried yet to add the double resistors, nor the i2c lines.

Thanks in advance
according to my experience during the installation of the PicoFly in the various models, making mistakes is practically very difficult, all the points to be soldered are in the clear, apart from the dat0 if the adapter is used on the OLEDs. so if you are precise and clean when soldering, the problems can come either from PicoFly not working (I have happened to have pieces not assembled correctly) or from the adapter not being correctly positioned. I had used one incorrectly positioned and as a result the picofly flashed blue endlessly, unplugging the PicoFly the console no longer started, black screen practically dead, removed and repositioned the adapter all ok.
 
according to my experience during the installation of the PicoFly in the various models, making mistakes is practically very difficult, all the points to be soldered are in the clear, apart from the dat0 if the adapter is used on the OLEDs. so if you are precise and clean when soldering, the problems can come either from PicoFly not working (I have happened to have pieces not assembled correctly) or from the adapter not being correctly positioned. I had used one incorrectly positioned and as a result the picofly flashed blue endlessly, unplugging the PicoFly the console no longer started, black screen practically dead, removed and repositioned the adapter all ok.
So probably my problem is with the MOSFETs soldering... I am going to recheck that too. My Picofly is built with a Waveshare Pico board, so I guess the problem is more with my soldering station tip not in good shape, and thus, a deficient solder.

Thanks for the idea 😊
 
So probably my problem is with the MOSFETs soldering... I am going to recheck that too. My Picofly is built with a Waveshare Pico board, so I guess the problem is more with my soldering station tip not in good shape, and thus, a deficient solder.

Thanks for the idea 😊
I'm fine with the Flex v1 set aside when I worked with the sx core. I use them because they speed up my work a lot.
 

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Shouldn't there be nominal diode voltage/resistance readings to the points in the main post/picofly definitive guide as they would be useful to check if the points are of the correct value specially in the case of the oled when attempting to do the emmc points rather than scattered across threads?
 
I'm fine with the Flex v1 set aside when I worked with the sx core. I use them because they speed up my work a lot.
Well, I do not have a flex cable, nor do I think my problem is there (I am not very experienced to be sure of that though 😅).

This is my installation, it's not the cleanest, but I have checked values in diode mode, all of them under 700 and over 400 on all the points. I have also checked continuity to alternative points (when possible), and everything seems to be correct. And last but not least, I have disconnected CMD and RST, and I receive the corresponding error code (I guess they are checked before DAT0, I confess I haven't gone through the code though).

Any idea is more than welcome.
 

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Well, I do not have a flex cable, nor do I think my problem is there (I am not very experienced to be sure of that though 😅).

This is my installation, it's not the cleanest, but I have checked values in diode mode, all of them under 700 and over 400 on all the points. I have also checked continuity to alternative points (when possible), and everything seems to be correct. And last but not least, I have disconnected CMD and RST, and I receive the corresponding error code (I guess they are checked before DAT0, I confess I haven't gone through the code though).

Any idea is more than welcome.
View attachment 383736
Looks bridging to me.
This kind of soldering works is dangerous, even its not bridging.

The switch has accelerometer which designed to be used for action game.
The physical bounce and shake might disturbed those component condition.
 
View attachment 383736
Looks bridging to me.
This kind of soldering works is dangerous, even its not bridging.

The switch has accelerometer which designed to be used for action game.
The physical bounce and shake might disturbed those component condition.
Not bridging, but I'll fix, thanks for the advice. That's been the result of multiple trials soldering and desoldering and so, but still no luck :(
 
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Hi everyone, I'm going fucking crazy. Does this not look bridged? no matter how good I solder, my chip will always show a green light, I'm out of options. Can I continue without bridging? I don't know.
 

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Hi everyone, I'm going fucking crazy. Does this not look bridged? no matter how good I solder, my chip will always show a green light, I'm out of options. Can I continue without bridging? I don't know.
You need to read the latest guide. Color of the LED no longer matters and as far as I know, that bridge no longer does anything.
 
Not bridging, but I'll fix, thanks for the advice. That's been the result of multiple trials soldering and desoldering and so, but still no luck :(
Well, guys, I fixed it by removing the second resistor on the DAT0 line, but not on CMD line. Now it glitches, succesfully enters HEKATE, but... I have encountered another problem: it no longer passes from Nintendo logo on OFW, nor Atmosphere logo on emunand... is the NAND corrupt? Is there something I could do to fix it? Maybe it is a problem with the chip interrupting execution somehow? Or maybe I must remove the resistor from CMD line too? It swtches off after the logo...

Thanks in advance!
 
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How can programmer raspberry pi pico with fw 2.74 firmware. Befor cut it???

I use nuke flash after that fw 2.74 firmware then no lghit. Is it fine???
 
How can programmer raspberry pi pico with fw 2.74 firmware. Befor cut it???

I use nuke flash after that fw 2.74 firmware then no lghit. Is it fine???
why are u using 2.74 its depriciated so dont use it use 2.73 if ur having issues afterinstalling it and cuttign the pico ur gonna have a hard time with reflashing it
 
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I have an oled modded with picofly, but It recently started acting strange It no longer boots into hekate It boots yo ofw. These aré the errors i get. Is this something that can be fix ay user lecel or do It needs to go back to the modchip installer.
 

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I have an oled modded with picofly, but It recently started acting strange It no longer boots into hekate It boots yo ofw. These aré the errors i get. Is this something that can be fix ay user lecel or do It needs to go back to the modchip installer.
bring it back to ur installer ;-)
 

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