Picofly AIO Thread

[Hayato213]

Where can I find a written guide that talks about updating the proper way? Thanks!

https://rentry.org/Getting_Started

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Hi....i installed picifly on a lite switch....everything ok but when i was turning on got a fuckin bsod...i dont even put a sd card... the first time got no sd...after that just blue screen? Am i bricked it? Is there any solution...the console is brand new

Help?

 

[LogicalMadness]

Help?

COUGH

Post in thread 'Picofly AIO Thread' https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-aio-thread.628951/post-10153536

COUGH

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Oh, so it WAS the ribbon that was causing 'no backlight' (I see your pic now, the only thing it COULD have been is the backlight pins, guess I needed to specify the "connectors" of the 'main ribbon' as well?), you didn't actually touch the daughter board. The discoloration of the ribbon was due to the pins being out of whack, more than likely.

@lightninjay's link goes str8 to a pic of the daughter's backlight connector and I thought that was your issue since you gave credit to Jay for helping you Hence, the confusion as to why the daughter board was touched at all.

Post automatically merged: May 9, 2023

Double check everything related to the APU. All caps, look for solder balls, bridging, etc.

I currently have a bsod that I think is just because I was careless and swiped a cap off the APU. Will let you know how the fix goes.

I've fixed bsod before by bending the Switch back into shape and reflowing the APU. I think I've read that it could be the ram too, another reflow\reball. Otherwise, dead Switch.

I think this was the cleanest install i ever made...everything went perfect...really don't know what could even happen...the switch is brand new so i guess its not relatrd to the apu reflow... my guess is the emmc chip...but dont know what to do to test it

 

[LogicalMadness]

I think this was the cleanest install i ever made...everything went perfect...really don't know what could even happen...the switch is brand new so i guess its not relatrd to the apu reflow... my guess is the emmc chip...but dont know what to do to test it

Did you search *both threads you're double-posting on* for bsod and \or blue screen?

*Edit*

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Did you search *both threads you're double-posting on* for bsod and \or blue screen?

*Edit*

Dont know how to do it

 

[LogicalMadness]

Dont know how to do it

Then I can't trust you with anymore advice, sorry.

 

[1337_Ninja]

I know the RP2040-Tiny isn't officially supported yet, but I was wondering if anyone had success with one yet. Seems like the best option if it works

 

[nico77]

I know the RP2040-Tiny isn't officially supported yet, but I was wondering if anyone had success with one yet. Seems like the best option if it works

i like how slim RP2040 Tiny compare to RP2040 zero.
look more fit to install for lite

especially the usb-c port kinda annoying that we need to remove manually on zero.
no component on the Tiny back board .

im agree
Tiny gonna best

 

[WalangAlam]

So far i only read from the thread the 3.3v alternate.

Here is interesting site if you want to search it yourself.
https://balika011.hu/switch/lite/

this need to be scrape?

 

[blackheartme]

hello, does anyone know how to solder this part of the mosfet source to the SOC, been trying to figure out how to solder this all night, the solder keeps falling off, it sticks first times but then it removes itself multiple times , that damn wires

any tips or any possiblities to solder alternate part for the source?

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[ngoanrazor]

Hello everyone,
My switch console (mod chip) drain battery too much when I sent it to sleep mode, It took about 12%/24h , is it normal?

 

[blackheartme]

CMIIW
I use 390 degrees C, some used 400 deg C.
Its just ground, it should work using the chasis.

this chasis part ok?

 

[lightninjay]

this chasis part ok?

yes

 

[TheCatsMeow]

this chasis part ok?

Yes, it's just a ground point. I'm not sure why the guide doesn't just recommend soldering to the shield frame right there, it's also a ground point and would be a bit easier to solder to in my opinion. I found that solder isn't a huge fan of that square piece - I got it to stick fine by scraping it a bit, but I can see people having issues with it.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Just buy another one that's pre-balled.

If you can't though - Find a stencil and get some leaded solder paste, should have a melting temp of ~183c. Clean all of the solder off of the pcb and the component. Place the stencil on the component, add some solder paste and spread it around. Use a tiny squeegee/metal scraper/xacto knife to scrape off all of the extra. Then use hot air on a low air speed like 10, and a temperature of 250-300c. Heat the whole chip, moving the hot air around in a circle, for about 5 seconds, then hold the hot air in one corner. Once the balls start to melt, slowly move over the whole chip. Once melted, remove the hot air and keep holding the stencil there for another 20-30 seconds. From there you should be able to remove the component from the stencil, and then install it on the pcb


I haven't done that exact component, but I've done a lot of bga work on graphics cards, and that's almost exactly what I do.

Between 0.25 or 0.35 which one should i pick, seems kinda hard to find 0.30 solder ball around here to purchase.

 

[QuiTim]

Between 0.25 or 0.35 which one should i pick, seems kinda hard to find 0.30 solder ball around here to purchase.

If it's supposed to be .30 then it's better you go with .25 if you can not find correct size.

 

[Phantomas77]

Yes, it's just a ground point. I'm not sure why the guide doesn't just recommend soldering to the shield frame right there, it's also a ground point and would be a bit easier to solder to in my opinion. I found that solder isn't a huge fan of that square piece - I got it to stick fine by scraping it a bit, but I can see people having issues with it.

Personally I don't "trust" the GND from the shield, since when cutting the shield for the CLK point soldering, some of the anchors popped out right away, and thus I question about how good the connection could be there.

For the SoC "GND square", I scrape it slightly with tweezers as you do, add flux, T12-BC1 tip and bump the temp up to 370°C on the T12 station. I use Sn63/Pb37 solder and never had issues for soldering that point.

Otherwise, one can use the other side of the capacitor on the SoC, since there're a lot of GND points around.