Picofly AIO Thread

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Long time lurker. First time poster. Thank y'all for the info in this thread. I managed to complete my first Switch mod today!
 

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Have a Waveshare RP2040. Was able to upload the firmware without any problems. Strangely, he gave no LED signal. Now I have installed the chip anyway but it does not work. The chip is dead. No LED display and the switch does nothing. When I disconnect the chip, the switch boots normally.

Can I assume that the RP2040 is defective? Unfortunately I don't have one left to test.

I am not the only one with such a problem.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-aio-thread.628951/post-10134317

What is meaned with "shorted the detection pins"?
RP2040 is just the name of the chip that resides on the board (there are MANY different variants).

The individual you refer to was specifically using a Seeed Xiao rp2040, which has two pads that need to be connected (shorted is another way of saying jumpered together)
xiao2040-pinout-jpg.364862


This graphic, the "DETECTION" pins need to be soldered together to get the firmware to recognize what kind of board it is being flashed to.

The Waveshare RP2040-zero does not have detection pins, as it was the original board that the firmware was designed to be used on. Since different boards have different pinouts, detection pins being shorted in different ways on different boards is how the firmware detects how it should be flashed.
 
After 12 hours I did the test and the picofly went up for the first time. Guys, I'm very happy!! I'll continue tomorrow, I don't know where to continue, I'll see some tutorials on YT. I hope the images help someone.
 

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My unit suddenly can't glitch to payload. It always boots to OFW as if not modchipped. I can see blue led then green led right before the Nintendo logo shows. Already tried without sd card and still the same.

Do I need to return this now to the shop that modded it?

Edit: Modchip is Rp2040-zero 2.65fw.

I'm having this exact same issue. Did you reach any conclusion? I've checked over all of the wires with a multimeter and even changed my 2040 for a fresh one, no luck.

 
I'm having this exact same issue. Did you reach any conclusion? I've checked over all of the wires with a multimeter and even changed my 2040 for a fresh one, no luck.


Can you check the mosfet? maybe broken after used... drain source should be connected when we apply voltage on gate, using multimeter is enough to trigger this
 
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I have read through all of the pages, I have read the pdf but still have two questions please.

Firstly I have noticed there are two alternative solder points, on the board or on the nand adapter. Anyone better to solder to or does it make no difference?

Secondly I am using mosfets, will use two as they seem to be possibly the better more consistent option but I am seeing pictures, one wire from the mosfets solder to the ground shield, the other two run off up out of the pictures. Where do these go and solder to what please?

Thank you.
 
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I have read through all of the pages, I have read the pdf but still have two questions please.

Firstly I have noticed there are two alternative solder points, on the board or on the nand adapter. Anyone better to solder to or does it make no difference?

Secondly I am using mosfets, will use two as they seem to be possibly the better more consistent option but I am seeing pictures, one wire from the mosfets solder to the ground shield, the other two run off up out of the pictures. Where do these go and solder to what please?

Thank you.
No difference, use whatever point you feel more comfortable soldering to.
Mosfets have 3 terminals:
- D (drain) solders to the capacitors
- S (source) solders to ground (either the other side of capacitor, the ground point of the APU or, the easiest which is the shield)
- G (gate), those that run off the picture, solder to CPU point in Pico (see photo). So if you use 2 mosfets then both lines to the same point on Pico.
 

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Last edited by QuiTim,
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Is there a code for the led blinking on the pico rp2040 (the original one from raspberry) so that i would know in which state it is? and if not is there a way i can get a neopixel working (like connecting one to gp 16 as the rp2040-zero has it?) and has someone installed the modchip using the regular pico? Does it fit or would i need to cut the pcb to make it smaller?
this one only use single color led...which is greenish.. so cannot debug. even when already assembled you need to cut the board and lost the led completely. But hey at least it works as intended. Yes ive used it and at least using single mosfet is enough, dont know whether it relates or not.
 
So the main thing keeping me from finishing this is my soldering iron keeps dieing. Never buy a Weller from Home Depot. Does anyone have any recommendations for one?
 
So the main thing keeping me from finishing this is my soldering iron keeps dieing. Never buy a Weller from Home Depot. Does anyone have any recommendations for one?
Which model are you using? I recently bought these rtm and rtp tips and they are freakin amazing. Using them with custom pen i got from tindie because their station is stupid expensive like $1k.
I also have ts80p which is great but the selection of tips is limited.
This one seems ok for the price and I think it uses JBC clone tips (also some very good selection for microsoldering):
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPt7zUY
 
I find using the IRF8714 SOP8 mosfet (thanks @QuiTim for the suggestion) was much easier to work with. I was able to flip one over and solder the 6 source pins and the 2 gate pins together. Put each drain array to the APU caps, the source array to a ground point, and gate to the CPU point on the pico.
 
I find using the IRF8714 SOP8 mosfet (thanks @QuiTim for the suggestion) was much easier to work with. I was able to flip one over and solder the 6 source pins and the 2 gate pins together. Put each drain array to the APU caps, the source array to a ground point, and gate to the CPU point on the pico.
Does it short enough(height) sitting next to APU under the shield cover?
 
I'm having this exact same issue. Did you reach any conclusion? I've checked over all of the wires with a multimeter and even changed my 2040 for a fresh one, no luck.


The "green" you are seeing is likely CYAN being skewed by the kapton tape over the LED. Check your CPU point, both at the 2040-zero, and the mosfet.
 
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I'm planning to get switch lite mod by someone how to update cause My other switch has SX os they used to dropped updated. other chips do the same or no update just hikate and atmosphere I'm good to go also can play game card too? thanks
 

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