Picofly AIO Thread

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I installed everything and double checked for shorts or any other damage, but everything seems fine. However when i turn on my console it just boots up normaly. No LED indicators except a bleak green and red lights. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the firmware cause im using Seeed RP2040. Tried reflashing it, but after reflashing i get bleak green and red light. Am i supposed to bridge the RGB connectors and if so where are they on the SEEEDs board?
 
I installed everything and double checked for shorts or any other damage, but everything seems fine. However when i turn on my console it just boots up normaly. No LED indicators except a bleak green and red lights. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the firmware cause im using Seeed RP2040. Tried reflashing it, but after reflashing i get bleak green and red light. Am i supposed to bridge the RGB connectors and if so where are they on the SEEEDs board?
Did you bridge the "detection" jumper for the Seed RP2040 as indicated in the guide? This way FW will know that you got this board, and not RP2040-Zero.
 
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I installed everything and double checked for shorts or any other damage, but everything seems fine. However when i turn on my console it just boots up normaly. No LED indicators except a bleak green and red lights. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the firmware cause im using Seeed RP2040. Tried reflashing it, but after reflashing i get bleak green and red light. Am i supposed to bridge the RGB connectors and if so where are they on the SEEEDs board?
You dont need to do anything on the RBG LED but you bridge detection pins
1682535046226.png
 
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Quick question before I commit to desolder the "extras". The instructions says to remove the buttons, USB socket and 3.3v regulator after flashing the FW on the pico. I believe this is done for clearance (besides the regulator perhaps), so my question is, can those be left on until the installation is confirmed working in case there are FW issues and the chip needs to be reflashed?
 
Quick question before I commit to desolder the "extras". The instructions says to remove the buttons, USB socket and 3.3v regulator after flashing the FW on the pico. I believe this is done for clearance (besides the regulator perhaps), so my question is, can those be left on until the installation is confirmed working in case there are FW issues and the chip needs to be reflashed?
only unintall them after u know everything is working
 
only unintall them after u know everything is working
I'm glad that is the case, but I wonder now what's the point of removing the regulator at all. It's not like it'll help with any clearance like the buttons and the socket will. Unless I'm missing something.
 
Actually, the regulator is the tallest part on the bottom of the chip and will give you a little extra clearance.
It's also pointless once the USB port is removed, since the chip is supplied with 3.3V directly already.
 
I'm glad that is the case, but I wonder now what's the point of removing the regulator at all. It's not like it'll help with any clearance like the buttons and the socket will. Unless I'm missing something.
it sure does otherwise we wouldnt remove it , plus on the other hand we dont need it anyways sinde we can boot with pico_toolbox
 
That, or shitty connection. What are the readings on other points: CMD, CLK?
Pico is clearly giving you a DAT0 related error.
I'm giving you as well this image:
View attachment 367237

That alignment is not good, you do the math.
what do you mean alignment is not good? do i move it forward? left or right(facing from the left)? does that white line need to disappear under the chip?
 
That, or shitty connection. What are the readings on other points: CMD, CLK?
Pico is clearly giving you a DAT0 related error.
I'm giving you as well this image:
View attachment 367237

That alignment is not good, you do the math.
cmd 492 clk 788
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He meant when you look at the red and green arrow you can see the alignment is off.
you the white line should be perpendicular or align with the edge of the chip?
 
Exactly, the white line needs to be aligned with the eMMC, it should not go under the chip though (check my install below, the adapter is not the same, though you get the idea).
For re-aligning, you need to desolder both anchors, re-align everything and take a reading to ser if it changed.
When satisfied, just press the adapter gently under the chip with tweezers and solder the anchors. Take another reading.
img_20230426_170759__01.jpg
 
can you give me advice how to move the dat0 adapter? current reading is 798
Post automatically merged:

Exactly, the white line needs to be aligned with the eMMC, it should not go under the chip though (check my install below, the adapter is not the same, though you get the idea).
For re-aligning, you need to desolder both anchors, re-align everything and take a reading to ser if it changed.
When satisfied, just press the adapter gently under the chip with tweezers and solder the anchors. Take another reading.View attachment 367315
what reading should i get in my multimeter? im confused with it since its giving me whole number rather than decimals...
 

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can you give me advice how to move the dat0 adapter? current reading is 798
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what reading should i get in my multimeter? im confused with it since its giving me whole number rather than decimals...
I have another multimeter that displays the whole number, 798 is the same as 0.798V.

With the red probe on the GND and the black on the DAT0 point, you should get from 0.4 to 0.6 V. First re-align the adapter, it's not good yet.
 
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I have another multimeter that displays the whole number, 798 is the same as 0.798V.

With the red probe on the GND and the black on the DAT0 point, you should get from 0.4 to 0.6 V. First re-align the adapter, it's not good yet.
does v1 lite and oled have the same dat0 value in multimeter? maybe i could compare my oled with my lite and v1 dat0 values...thank you for all the tips so far will work on it later...
 
The pdf uf2 files?????
Yes. Just remove the ".pdf" extension after you download the files. They are really binary files but ".pdf" is added as a workaround so the files can be attached to the post. Note that the author of that post is the developer of the hack so it is the latest and greatest.
 
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