Picofly AIO Thread

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Hey people !

I took a shot at the mod and sadly I believe I messed up one of the capacitor's leads. Does anyone know if the caps are replaceable or can be removed and have the wires from drain/ source of the mosfet soldered directly to the pads under the caps. for a bit of info I'm attempting the single mosfet method on a switch lite.

Thanks in advance !
 
Hey people !

I took a shot at the mod and sadly I believe I messed up one of the capacitor's leads. Does anyone know if the caps are replaceable or can be removed and have the wires from drain/ source of the mosfet soldered directly to the pads under the caps. for a bit of info I'm attempting the single mosfet method on a switch lite.

Thanks in advance !
you can use the caps from the rp2040 board, I believe that image is in the main thread
 
I replaced the wires with new ones shorted and now is worst, when I try to launch HOS with vol+ and vol- mpt sjpw amything at all except one time that show pink screen. It is possible that i damaged the emmc?

Edit: I mounted the emmc in windows with hekate and can see the content and appear to be ok. The switch enter automatically in rcm when I rty to launch HOS
It will launch recovery if you hold vol+ and vol- for too long when booting, try holding them for 1-2 seconds only
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This is practice.
The mosfet used is IRFHS8342.
I managed to solder it somehow.
Is this OK?
Using flex cable for the first switch was the right choice.

This looks great, good job. But you don't really need two, one should be enough.
 
Last edited by deeps,
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Hey, after so much tinkering, i finally got my switch in a stable state where it hasnt crashed after the instalation. I just wanna say thanks for everything, you lot are amazing
 
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This is practice.
The mosfet used is IRFHS8342.
I managed to solder it somehow.
Is this OK?
Using flex cable for the first switch was the right choice.
it looks very rough Mate! . Keep practicing before doing it for real.
Some of them solder joints look very suspect , Very dull and brittle at least one of them and it will cause Big problems.
Make sure to use Flux too
 
it looks very rough Mate! . Keep practicing before doing it for real.
Some of them solder joints look very suspect , Very dull and brittle at least one of them and it will cause Big problems.
Make sure to use Flux too
Thanks for the advice.
It seems to be soldered enough that a light tug will not dislodge it.
I am using flux.
I cannot do this difficult soldering without flux.
 
as someone who saw the pikabrick rise and fall, that's why I had the full backup warning.

can you explain the "pikabrick" in short words?
asking this because i maybe am in the same situation after removing the chip from the console and now its dead.
and of course i didnt make a nand backup because the installation was making trouble.
no batt %, emmc issues (slow mode) and last thing i saw emmc init fail. i believe the nand is dead
 
can you explain the "pikabrick" in short words?
asking this because i maybe am in the same situation after removing the chip from the console and now its dead.
and of course i didnt make a nand backup because the installation was making trouble.
no batt %, emmc issues (slow mode) and last thing i saw emmc init fail. i believe the nand is dead
"Pikabrick" was an incident where someone uploaded a modified (read as fake) version of a popular game "Pokemon Let's GO Pikachu", that bricked people's consoles if they tried to install it. This is software, after being booted into CFW.

Your case has more to do with early booting. You need to check your solder points, because according to Rehius, this kind of hack should be able to potentially boot with [corrupt EMMC] plugged in (if you have V1 or V2 regular) or corrupted NAND chip (on OLED or lite) so you would be able to restore a backup. In your case, not having a backup means you won't have access to nintendo servers if you modify build files to make your own custom nand. This is still better than nothing, and if you didn't intend to play games online, is not a real issue anyway.

EDITED: corrupt eMMC still needs to be plugged in to boot.
 
Last edited by lightninjay,
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this kind of hack should be able to potentially boot without EMMC plugged in
eMMC is certainly required
Post automatically merged:

emmc issues (slow mode) and last thing i saw emmc init fail
improper setup may easily cause that (long wires, cold joints, lack of resistors) it is hard to kill eMMC
 
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"Pikabrick" was an incident where someone uploaded a modified (read as fake) version of a popular game "Pokemon Let's GO Pikachu", that bricked people's consoles if they tried to install it. This is software, after being booted into CFW.

Your case has more to do with early booting. You need to check your solder points, because according to Rehius, this kind of hack should be able to potentially boot with [corrupt EMMC] plugged in (if you have V1 or V2 regular) or corrupted NAND chip (on OLED or lite) so you would be able to restore a backup. In your case, not having a backup means you won't have access to nintendo servers if you modify build files to make your own custom nand. This is still better than nothing, and if you didn't intend to play games online, is not a real issue anyway.

EDITED: corrupt eMMC still needs to be plugged in to boot.
the soldering was good. all masked up with conformal coating and it worked. but after the strange behaviour of the emmc i decided to desolder the chip and go back to stock.
but i think i will resolder it to hopefully recover some stuff off of it.
 
the soldering was good. all masked up with conformal coating and it worked. but after the strange behaviour of the emmc i decided to desolder the chip and go back to stock.
but i think i will resolder it to hopefully recover some stuff off of it.
You may just need to put two 47R0 resistors in-line on DAT0 and CMD to fix your slow EMMC issues. That's what did it for me on my V1 patched unit.
 
Hi i got this weird problem.
I do work good. got into hekate, do some stuff. but When i boot to OFW by press Vol + Vol - its boot normal to OFW. but it cant boot back to hekate when im restart or power on off. Its continues boot traight to OFW. any suggest guys? im on 2.64 pico.
 
You may just need to put two 47R0 resistors in-line on DAT0 and CMD to fix your slow EMMC issues. That's what did it for me on my V1 patched unit.
it is indeed a ipatched v1.. HAC-CPU-20
i will try with 2x 47R and if thats not gonna work i will reball the emmc and hope for the best.
and i havent done diode readings yesterday because it was almost 1am and i was a bit pi**ed off ;)
 
This is practice.
The mosfet used is IRFHS8342.
I managed to solder it somehow.
Is this OK?
Using flex cable for the first switch was the right choice.
my mosfet just arrive today

i kinda shock when see the mosfet in real life.
so tiny :v
 
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What happens if i accidentally merge the pins 2 and 5 along with 3&4 on the flex cable? Just asking incase
 

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