Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[FreeLander]

nice, Iam using 100 ohm on data0 having slow glitch (4-5s most, rarely 2-3sec).Will switch back and see

I should do the same. In that video, it glitched fast, but I tried it a couple more times and it took an exact MINUTE. I think I'll double the 47s on dat0 as well.

Post automatically merged: Jul 9, 2023

This brings up a question I’ve been meaning to ask. What sets a fast-glitching install from a long one? Is it related to how skillful the modchip was installed?

 

[jkyoho]

This brings up a question I’ve been meaning to ask. What sets a fast-glitching install from a long one? Is it related to how skillful the modchip was installed?

There's no easy answer. Just like some needs 2 mosfet but most just one.

 

[Danook28]

That is the new chip no need resistor mate.

 

[RTXbothunter]

Hi everyone i have an issue with a v1 patch i always get **(tow short yellow lights) i change and wires 3 time, change the rp2040, and the flex 2 times, y try with firmware 2.6 and 2.7, i dont know what really try to have runing

 

[Danook28]

Hi everyone i have an issue with a v1 patch i always get **(tow short yellow lights) i change and wires 3 time, change the rp2040, and the flex 2 times, y try with firmware 2.6 and 2.7, i dont know what really try to have runing

Your wiers short??? All point read good????

 

[RTXbothunter]

yes they are good i measure continuity between them

 

[Takezo-San]

That is the new chip no need resistor mate.

You really think I would ask that question? Tut tut tut

Post automatically merged: Jul 10, 2023

This brings up a question I’ve been meaning to ask. What sets a fast-glitching install from a long one? Is it related to how skillful the modchip was installed?

I'm sure I read the length of wires makes a difference. This is a timing mod and exploit after all. Plus manufacturer of the nand chip.

 

[Seco_Gobbo2]

Hello everybody.

I saw some installation posts here with only one mosfet on the back of the board, but only on oled models.

Is it possible to do this installation with only one mosfet in the V1 models?

 

[abal1000x]

Hello everybody.

I saw some installation posts here with only one mosfet on the back of the board, but only on oled models.

Is it possible to do this installation with only one mosfet in the V1 models?

You could do it to all type of switch.
The D mosfet are connected to the 1V power output from Max77620.

 

[Takezo-San]

Hello everybody.

I saw some installation posts here with only one mosfet on the back of the board, but only on oled models.

Is it possible to do this installation with only one mosfet in the V1 models?

Look back properly. People have shown it done with Lite too. Not only Oled.

 

[jkyoho]

Hello everybody.

I saw some installation posts here with only one mosfet on the back of the board, but only on oled models.

Is it possible to do this installation with only one mosfet in the V1 models?

ReadMe

 

[roxzii]

Yes Ammeter to check if there is power draw - also check your lcd connector for damaged pins

Thanks for this, I never thought the lcd connector would be the problem since I had the no sd screen and blue screen before. But I verified the soldering on the SP1 pads and a wire had come loose. Fixed that, reattached picofly and actually got successful glitch (blue then short yellow), but nothing on screen. I guess after removing and reattaching the board to diagnose I seem to have damaged the connector, maybe with the tweezers. I tried the fiber glass brush but still no continuity on the multimeter.

Two questions:

Since the pico manages to glitch as far as I can tell, how dead may the console be? (Checked all the caps around both chips you mentioned and found no shorts).

And also, it's not possible for a bad connector to cause a blue screen, right? It would either display or not display, not throw an error, right?

EDIT: Third question, I just found out that if that ribbon is gone, so is the whole lcd. Any way to use jumper wires to fix that scratch?

 

[FreeLander]

There's no easy answer. Just like some needs 2 mosfet but most just one.

Thanks. When do you say ok this one needs a two? If persistent with check mosfet error and boots to OFW?

 

[abal1000x]

Thanks. When do you say ok this one needs a two? If persistent with check mosfet error and boots to OFW?

I've prove by data that, adding mosfet or changing the resistor value, wont affect the glitching time.

So just like what i always said in the beginning, 1 mosfet is enough.

If the glitch didn't happened, than problem lay on other aspect.

 

[cowboy619]

Thanks for this, I never thought the lcd connector would be the problem since I had the no sd screen and blue screen before. But I verified the soldering on the SP1 pads and a wire had come loose. Fixed that, reattached picofly and actually got successful glitch (blue then short yellow), but nothing on screen. I guess after removing and reattaching the board to diagnose I seem to have damaged the connector, maybe with the tweezers. I tried the fiber glass brush but still no continuity on the multimeter.

Two questions:

Since the pico manages to glitch as far as I can tell, how dead may the console be? (Checked all the caps around both chips you mentioned and found no shorts).

And also, it's not possible for a bad connector to cause a blue screen, right? It would either display or not display, not throw an error, right?

EDIT: Third question, I just found out that if that ribbon is gone, so is the whole lcd. Any way to use jumper wires to fix that scratch?

Most of the time if you getting black screens then the connector is damaged. Check the connector on the board the ribbon is not that clear so cant see - maybe its glitching but we cant see cos the screen error

 

[Takezo-San]

Thanks for this, I never thought the lcd connector would be the problem since I had the no sd screen and blue screen before. But I verified the soldering on the SP1 pads and a wire had come loose. Fixed that, reattached picofly and actually got successful glitch (blue then short yellow), but nothing on screen. I guess after removing and reattaching the board to diagnose I seem to have damaged the connector, maybe with the tweezers. I tried the fiber glass brush but still no continuity on the multimeter.

Two questions:

Since the pico manages to glitch as far as I can tell, how dead may the console be? (Checked all the caps around both chips you mentioned and found no shorts).

And also, it's not possible for a bad connector to cause a blue screen, right? It would either display or not display, not throw an error, right?

EDIT: Third question, I just found out that if that ribbon is gone, so is the whole lcd. Any way to use jumper wires to fix that scratch?

If the pico has glitches successfully then that's a good sign the switch is good however the next step is to check and fix that lcd connector.

I will be working on a switch lite myself that has a blue screen and then no screen. Found a burnt pin on the lcd connector. Will attempt fix and let you know if blue screen is gone or if that lcd connector removes no picture.

I will say, the real test is to get rid of blue or black screen. Then see the no sd pico logo and then....check with sd card if it boots into hekate. Ways to go but so far, good work

 

[twins333]

I've prove by data that, adding mosfet or changing the resistor value, wont affect the glitching time.

So just like what i always said in the beginning, 1 mosfet is enough.

If the glitch didn't happened, than problem lay on other aspect.

Also use thinner enamel wires on oleds, except for the 3V and gnd. Thicker wires can (and have) result(ed) in unsuccessful glitches for oleds.

 

[Quezacotl]

Hello!
I tried the backside FET method on OLED, but all i get is this error:
"CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, checkmosfet)"
I'm using the IRFHS8242. Already tried another FET incase it was broken but still same.
Using fw 2.73.

Any suggestions?

 

[abal1000x]

Hello!
I tried the backside FET method on OLED, but all i get is this error:
"CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, checkmosfet)"
I'm using the IRFHS8242. Already tried another FET incase it was broken but still same.
Using fw 2.73.

Any suggestions?

The S part need more solder.

 

[deeps]

Also use thinner enamel wires on oleds, except for the 3V and gnd. Thicker wires can (and have) result(ed) in unsuccessful glitches for oleds.

No. Quit bullshitting, thanks.

Post automatically merged: Jul 10, 2023

Hello!
I tried the backside FET method on OLED, but all i get is this error:
"CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, checkmosfet)"
I'm using the IRFHS8242. Already tried another FET incase it was broken but still same.
Using fw 2.73.

Any suggestions?

I would measure the G/cpu point on the rp2040 and make sure it isn't shorted to ground somehow.