Thats beautifulI happen to find another technician who can do micro-soldering. He wasn’t experienced with switches but like you guys, he chuckled at the work the previous guy did when I asked if he can clean it up . Looks like he really cleaned it up, what do you guys think? It now glitches!
well that looks pretty good , way better then the other guy.I happen to find another technician who can do micro-soldering. He wasn’t experienced with switches but like you guys, he chuckled at the work the previous guy did when I asked if he can clean it up . Looks like he really cleaned it up, what do you guys think? It now glitches!
Edit: Apparently there’s still some inconsistent glitching, it seems to be D0 and RST again. Would appreciate some leads to see what may be wrong.
I’ll see if I can get a video but my technician said either RST or D0.well that looks pretty good , way better then the other guy.
whats the code?
Hey no problem, thanks for thinking about my issue, it's appreciated!Then its left with this issue you need to check:
You could read it on the Q&A
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point
Editted:
I think i misunderstand your cases. I previously think that your picofly are randomly reset, even though success. But it seems not. after read your comment again i think the flows already correct:
1. Blue light (power on)
2. White led (write the payload to emmc, only once. Next boot wont happened)
3. Blue light (glitching)
4. Short white (success)
5. No Sd should shown.
If you don't see anything then its lcd connector problem
It will be better if you could upload some video on it. I might make a wrong assumption.
I’ll see if I can get a video but my technician said either RST or D0.
Yes it is. Its connect the backlight 4pin (right of 4pin power+vol flex) to the main board.Hey no problem, thanks for thinking about my issue, it's appreciated!
I agree, it feels like the Switch and Picofly is working corretly but I somehow I broke the screen. Dumb question time- is the long connector between the motherboard and daughterboard (around the battery) responsible for the screen? Because that's the only thing I actually disconnected in order to unplug the battery.
great findingI would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
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For those of you who like big pads and cannot lie, here's a super easy and perfectly working mosfet position for the OLED with virtually zero risk to surrounding components.
I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
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For those of you who like big pads and cannot lie, here's a super easy and perfectly working mosfet position for the OLED with virtually zero risk to surrounding components.
Every switch have MAX17020, just follow the 1V rail, i strongly believe you could use any point on those 1v rail as a D point.If you find any alternative like this for v1/v2/lite let us know!!
Every switch have MAX17020, just follow the 1V rail, i strongly believe you could use any point on those 1v rail as a D point.
yesIt should have continuity with the cap?
im Know the feeling my friend XdAnybody else about to buy some Johnsons shares?
Gf keeps asking if my ear wax is getting bad
Hi! Somebody could said to me the value / specs of those components (around the RST point).
Do you know the size? Maybe 0201???the upper two are 4.7k resistors
The odd thing is that I do have backlight, but no picture. Thankyou for your help though- I've ordered a couple of replacement flex cables, let's see!Yes it is. Its connect the backlight 4pin (right of 4pin power+vol flex) to the main board.
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That would truly be unfortunate . Is there a way to confirm definitively?I would guess the rp2040 is fried by now. This job looks great.
Do you know the size? Maybe 0201???
That would truly be unfortunate . Is there a way to confirm definitively?
Otherwise, I do have an extra picofly pcb board. Just that it’s currently flashed with 2.74 and my understanding is that firmware version is unstable.