Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Would this modchip belong to this thread?
20230620-220933.jpg


If so, I'll ask mods to move one post of mine to here...
I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.
 
Amazing stuff. Did the old phone work with reball reintall and how did you manage to place those fiddly balls on top of the pads. I tried to use solder balls but there was no divet in the chip pads for them to settle in. Hence I opted to stick with the paste. But yes! We inspire and motivate each other. I just hope we can inspire others to do the same and discard the thought of dat0 adaptors that are hit or miss. Great work!

The phone was dead long ago so no way to know.
As for the process, I edited my original post with more info but just briefly, once you put some flux on the emmc the balls are easy to arange, once that's done 300° lowest airflow until the balls stick to emmc, afterwards add more flux all over the emmc and heat again 300° medium airflow until everything is set nicely. 30min total.
The balls have a melting point of around 190° so that makes everything easier.
My only concern with the whole reball process is that I have no reall feel of the amount of heat emmc can take without sustaining damage since I don't have a "real" rework station, the actual temperature from my heatgun can vary :/
This is what i'm currently using:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqrLI16
Either way its good stuff to practise on and the alignment looks perfect to me. I mean it doesn't look so differnt to what im using.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.57.389c1802z6he7S

Thanks for the clarification. I did recently come across this green chip dat0 adaptor and apparently it attaches to the emmc and has an extension so that it takes clk/cmd and dat0 a place to solder all in one place. Have you seen it? check it out:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/2023-newest-hwfly-oled-v5-v5-deluxe.634907/post-10187560
 
Last edited by Takezo-San,
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Anyone know the bridge point on rp 2040 tiny when I flash it I get a green light on the normal rp 2040 I have to bridge 2 point together and I get a red light when flashing
 

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Hmm, should we downgrade if ours is already working on 2.74? Seems kinda dangerous to run it at 300mhz at all times if a lot of units can't even handle the overclock. Like it'll burn it out a lot faster.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

The rp2040 is only running at maximum clock speeds when glitching. When the glitch is finished, Rehius' code puts the chip into a very low power mode to save switch battery life where the chip itself isn't doing much work at all. I wouldn't worry about it myself but downgrade if you feel more comfortable that way to 2.73.
 
I could only find 100ohm in the correct size all my 1k ohm and higher were a size too big so I didn't do the pulldown resistor no

On a side note, I've noticed sometimes when you go to turn the Switch on it is unresponsive until you hold the power button for 20s and then let go and press power button again. I have had this happen on multiple different Switches and I'm wondering what causes it.
This should only happen after you power it off from OFW, as it need to wait about 15 second plus (yes it is) the time of one glitch (training), then it will turn off. At these times the power button cannot function even when you press it.
training time is also variable, can be 1-3 sec or can be 10-30sec.
But it should only happen after direct turn off and you press the power button immediately.

I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.
For general question i think YES you can ask in this thread, but for troubleshoots ,, hmm , NO ,, as it have different instalation procedures.
 
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Yes try to add resistor to the cmd line.
Post automatically merged:


Yeah that is my original proposition.
But he already cut it into O shaped.
I can actually make that work with the other one I have. I'll give it a go next week once the display is repaired. And I have the 2x resistors on the two suggested lines. No difference.
 
I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.
Nope doesn't belong here , it's not supported by this firmware there are no diagrams for this boards.
Post automatically merged:

Would this modchip belong to this thread?
20230620-220933.jpg


If so, I'll ask mods to move one post of mine to here...
Not really , since its not supported by the community firmware (even though they are probally using the forums firmware)nor does anyone have diagrams for those boards.


For hwfly device ask ur seller or create a new thread , please don't over take this thread cause u have a board that is sold as a modchip , and ur seller should support u.
Most of us here do not support those Chinese thieves that are making money with stealing ideas from forums selling a device with most likely forums firmware.
And then making a profit of them.
These chips suddenly appeared after a few forum member tested and created the firmware for the rp2040, then the Chinese company's come and make a profit off of it.
Post automatically merged:

That hwfly is tempting me.
The price compared to tiny, 80% more pricey.
But with everything connected via flex, its neat and prone to mistakes.
Don't support those Chinese thieves Xd
 
Last edited by Dee87,
Honestly i want they take whatever idea exist on the community, and create the most cheapest board in the market. They profit, we happy, win win solution.

Right now the cheapest solution still buying rp2040-zero + mosfet. The price of rp2040-zero in the market itself is cheap not because of the production cost, but because theres tiny and lot of demand from modder. Eventually it will sold out.

Last time i check the price on waveshare sites, the price between zero and tiny is similar. But the market price, zero almost half the price compared to tiny.

The normal hwfly chip didn't cost more in production and they charged 70-150dollars.
The only reason the rp2040 is so cheap is because otherwise none would buy it , its the same with the normal hwfly chip suddenly the rp2040 firmware gets released the price dropes to 30-40 dollars.

This has nothing to do with creating the cheapest board.
Its just about making tons of money.

If u wanna support someone wait for the community boards to arrive like the dragonfly its almost the same price as the rp2040 zero.


I mean everybody do how they feel but I would hate to see the hwfly boards to overtake this project and that's why I think we should not support those chips in the rp2040 threads.
 
I mean the only thing about the hwfly picofly boards I'm curious on is do they use the same pinout the Zero/tiny use or is it modified
u mean the pinout from the rp2040?

yeah afaik is they use (our) firmware so the pinouts are the same just labeled differently on the board
 
This should only happen after you power it off from OFW, as it need to wait about 15 second plus (yes it is) the time of one glitch (training), then it will turn off. At these times the power button cannot function even when you press it.
training time is also variable, can be 1-3 sec or can be 10-30sec.
But it should only happen after direct turn off and you press the power button immediately.


For general question i think YES you can ask in this thread, but for troubleshoots ,, hmm , NO ,, as it have different instalation procedures.
Yeah I know about that feature when you power off from HOS after 15 seconds the chip trains and you have to wait before turning back on but what I'm talking about is not a restart. What I mean is sometimes I pick up a Switch that is already powered off, but there is no response from power button until I hold it for 20 seconds, then it will turn on when you press the button
 
Yeah I know about that feature when you power off from HOS after 15 seconds the chip trains and you have to wait before turning back on but what I'm talking about is not a restart. What I mean is sometimes I pick up a Switch that is already powered off, but there is no response from power button until I hold it for 20 seconds, then it will turn on when you press the button
Did u install a pulldown resistor on mosfet?
Also is it wake from sleep dont have issue, i mean wake after like 30min sleep.
Also while the button not responsive can it be charged ? charge icon appear?
 
Either way its good stuff to practise on and the alignment looks perfect to me. I mean it doesn't look so differnt to what im using.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.57.389c1802z6he7S

Thanks for the clarification. I did recently come across this green chip dat0 adaptor and apparently it attaches to the emmc and has an extension so that it takes clk/cmd and dat0 a place to solder all in one place. Have you seen it? check it out:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/2023-newest-hwfly-oled-v5-v5-deluxe.634907/post-10187560
I have 2 of those adapters (came with hwfly orders some time ago) but never got the chance to use them since I never did a reball/reflow, I just used supplied dat0 adapter.
They are selling them for like $10 so I don't know if it's worth it. I mean that CLK point is a bit tricky but but I we can do a reball we damn sure can solder that point as well :)
 
u mean the pinout from the rp2040?

yeah afaik is they use (our) firmware so the pinouts are the same just labeled differently on the board
yeah, but if they changed it we won't know exactly will we, would be great if people could test and report back - information is everything.
 
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yeah, but if they changed it we won't know exactly will we, would be great if people could test and report back - information is everything.
okay let me clear this up a bit more, ive read that people used (our, GBA) firmware for flashing those boards.

so thats why i say they sell there product and use (our,GBA) firmware that is preflashed on those chips
 
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