I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.Would this modchip belong to this thread?
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If so, I'll ask mods to move one post of mine to here...
I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.Would this modchip belong to this thread?
![]()
If so, I'll ask mods to move one post of mine to here...
Amazing stuff. Did the old phone work with reball reintall and how did you manage to place those fiddly balls on top of the pads. I tried to use solder balls but there was no divet in the chip pads for them to settle in. Hence I opted to stick with the paste. But yes! We inspire and motivate each other. I just hope we can inspire others to do the same and discard the thought of dat0 adaptors that are hit or miss. Great work!
Either way its good stuff to practise on and the alignment looks perfect to me. I mean it doesn't look so differnt to what im using.The phone was dead long ago so no way to know.
As for the process, I edited my original post with more info but just briefly, once you put some flux on the emmc the balls are easy to arange, once that's done 300° lowest airflow until the balls stick to emmc, afterwards add more flux all over the emmc and heat again 300° medium airflow until everything is set nicely. 30min total.
The balls have a melting point of around 190° so that makes everything easier.
My only concern with the whole reball process is that I have no reall feel of the amount of heat emmc can take without sustaining damage since I don't have a "real" rework station, the actual temperature from my heatgun can vary :/
This is what i'm currently using:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqrLI16
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".Hmm, should we downgrade if ours is already working on 2.74? Seems kinda dangerous to run it at 300mhz at all times if a lot of units can't even handle the overclock. Like it'll burn it out a lot faster.
This should only happen after you power it off from OFW, as it need to wait about 15 second plus (yes it is) the time of one glitch (training), then it will turn off. At these times the power button cannot function even when you press it.I could only find 100ohm in the correct size all my 1k ohm and higher were a size too big so I didn't do the pulldown resistor no
On a side note, I've noticed sometimes when you go to turn the Switch on it is unresponsive until you hold the power button for 20s and then let go and press power button again. I have had this happen on multiple different Switches and I'm wondering what causes it.
For general question i think YES you can ask in this thread, but for troubleshoots ,, hmm , NO ,, as it have different instalation procedures.I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.
Like this everything lines up it's pretty easyHow about with this chip how to install it
I want to but I can't find a tutorial
I can actually make that work with the other one I have. I'll give it a go next week once the display is repaired. And I have the 2x resistors on the two suggested lines. No difference.Yes try to add resistor to the cmd line.
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Yeah that is my original proposition.
But he already cut it into O shaped.
Nope doesn't belong here , it's not supported by this firmware there are no diagrams for this boards.I'd say so. It's literally a picofly. It's an RP2040 and it runs the same firmware. It's just on the hwfly board.
Not really , since its not supported by the community firmware (even though they are probally using the forums firmware)nor does anyone have diagrams for those boards.Would this modchip belong to this thread?
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If so, I'll ask mods to move one post of mine to here...
Don't support those Chinese thieves XdThat hwfly is tempting me.
The price compared to tiny, 80% more pricey.
But with everything connected via flex, its neat and prone to mistakes.
Honestly i want they take whatever idea exist on the community, and create the most cheapest board in the market. They profit, we happy, win win solution.
Right now the cheapest solution still buying rp2040-zero + mosfet. The price of rp2040-zero in the market itself is cheap not because of the production cost, but because theres tiny and lot of demand from modder. Eventually it will sold out.
Last time i check the price on waveshare sites, the price between zero and tiny is similar. But the market price, zero almost half the price compared to tiny.
u mean the pinout from the rp2040?I mean the only thing about the hwfly picofly boards I'm curious on is do they use the same pinout the Zero/tiny use or is it modified
Yeah I know about that feature when you power off from HOS after 15 seconds the chip trains and you have to wait before turning back on but what I'm talking about is not a restart. What I mean is sometimes I pick up a Switch that is already powered off, but there is no response from power button until I hold it for 20 seconds, then it will turn on when you press the buttonThis should only happen after you power it off from OFW, as it need to wait about 15 second plus (yes it is) the time of one glitch (training), then it will turn off. At these times the power button cannot function even when you press it.
training time is also variable, can be 1-3 sec or can be 10-30sec.
But it should only happen after direct turn off and you press the power button immediately.
For general question i think YES you can ask in this thread, but for troubleshoots ,, hmm , NO ,, as it have different instalation procedures.
Did u install a pulldown resistor on mosfet?Yeah I know about that feature when you power off from HOS after 15 seconds the chip trains and you have to wait before turning back on but what I'm talking about is not a restart. What I mean is sometimes I pick up a Switch that is already powered off, but there is no response from power button until I hold it for 20 seconds, then it will turn on when you press the button
I have 2 of those adapters (came with hwfly orders some time ago) but never got the chance to use them since I never did a reball/reflow, I just used supplied dat0 adapter.Either way its good stuff to practise on and the alignment looks perfect to me. I mean it doesn't look so differnt to what im using.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.57.389c1802z6he7S
Thanks for the clarification. I did recently come across this green chip dat0 adaptor and apparently it attaches to the emmc and has an extension so that it takes clk/cmd and dat0 a place to solder all in one place. Have you seen it? check it out:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/2023-newest-hwfly-oled-v5-v5-deluxe.634907/post-10187560
yeah, but if they changed it we won't know exactly will we, would be great if people could test and report back - information is everything.u mean the pinout from the rp2040?
yeah afaik is they use (our) firmware so the pinouts are the same just labeled differently on the board
okay let me clear this up a bit more, ive read that people used (our, GBA) firmware for flashing those boards.yeah, but if they changed it we won't know exactly will we, would be great if people could test and report back - information is everything.