Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[QuiTim]

Totally agree, waiting for this one to arrive.

View attachment 374919



Actually no, I was thinking of the "black" version, I imagine it should be similar to the old "corner" adapter. If so, it has a good contact, but I haven't tested them personally.

View attachment 374920

There should be as well good adapters from "official HWfly stores", but it's over 10 EUR each, so stencil + hot air is the way.

Have you seen this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_msRTyp6
Looks tempting

 

[Ganesha0112]

Anyone know why I have an infinite glitching issue with a picofly 2.65 on a oled, everything look good but not green light just heating blue light.

Static blue -> White -> Heating blue -> nothing

I tried 2 RP2040 but in the 2 same problem

 

[Danook28]

Anyone know why I have an infinite glitching issue with a picofly 2.65 on a oled, everything look good but not green light just heating blue light.

Static blue -> White -> Heating blue -> nothing

I tried 2 RP2040 but in the 2 same problem

Use 2.74. I was use by update bin misteaks 2.67 firmware. Pico fly working.me be your chip fulty or try see led erorr guide.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[FreeLander]

Hello. I couldn't find this error code in the guide. *==. Any idea is appreciated. Thanks. This is an OLED

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[FreeLander]

There is in the "Important post"
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)

Is the poor wiring specific to a certain point? I resoldered CMD, DAT0, and CLK but still.
Thank you.

 

[QuiTim]

Hello. I couldn't find this error code in the guide. *==. Any idea is appreciated. Thanks. This is an OLED

Is this a new installation or are you reworking an old one?
Are you getting anything on screen?
Did you check the value of resistor on cmd line?

 

[simplerules]

Follow my post that I made about soldering in Switch Lites

Thanks for the info i follow the guide for the rest of the instalation but the D0 points have disapear, how i can fix that im desperate.

 

[FreeLander]

Is this a new installation or are you reworking an old one?
Are you getting anything on screen?
Did you check the value of resistor on cmd line?

Hello.
- This is a new installation. It was working prior to installing the chip.
- Black screen
- Yes, 0.7v. All values are within normal range.
I removed everything and turned it on, nothing black screen.
I resoldered everything with new wiring and new pico. Same result.

One thing I noticed about this OLED is that it has a RAM chip I haven't seen before, and the nand cover has a sponge that I've never seen in any OLED I've worked on.

What do you think?

Two things I did differently with this installation. I cleaned the CPU with a regular 70% IPA medical swap, and I used normal superglue to fix the MOSFETs next to it. I don't know if either caused this.

On a USB meter, it;s drawing 0.4amps, 15v.

 

[lightninjay]

Thanks for the info i follow the guide for the rest of the instalation but the D0 points have disapear, how i can fix that im desperate.

I think your best best bet would be to try and get some solder to pool between those two ripped areas in an attempt to get the pads to bridge back together. Then try to solder your Dat0 point to this alternate point if you can get that spot jumpered back together. The Green X is the alternate point.

 

[QuiTim]

Hello.
- This is a new installation. It was working prior to installing the chip.
- Black screen
- Yes, 0.7v. All values are within normal range.
I removed everything and turned it on, nothing black screen.
I resoldered everything with new wiring and new pico. Same result.

One thing I noticed about this OLED is that it has a RAM chip I haven't seen before, and the nand cover has a sponge that I've never seen in any OLED I've worked on.

What do you think?

Two things I did differently with this installation. I cleaned the CPU with a regular 70% IPA medical swap, and I used normal superglue to fix the MOSFETs next to it. I don't know if either caused this.

On a USB meter, it;s drawing 0.4amps, 15v.
View attachment 374937

Ipa 70% is not really good since it takes more time to evaporate 96% and up is way better (and it cleans better)
Anyway I don't think that this is the issue here.
I know this is old news and repetitive but have you tried docking it? That fckn connector it terrible.
Also regarding the resistor on CMD, could you measure the resistence in ohm mode not diode value.
There have been a couple of cases here where that resistor is fried during soldering. You should get something in the range of 4.7kohm od it's ok.

 

[FreeLander]

Ipa 70% is not really good since it takes more time to evaporate 96% and up is way better (and it cleans better)
Anyway I don't think that this is the issue here.
I know this is old news and repetitive but have you tried docking it? That fckn connector it terrible.
Also regarding the resistor on CMD, could you measure the resistence in ohm mode not diode value.
There have been a couple of cases here where that resistor is fried during soldering. You should get something in the range of 4.7kohm od it's ok.

Hello,
Nothng on docking. Single led flash when docked.
value of CMD is 3.7k.
If there was something wrong with that resistor, shouldn't;t there be a purple scene?

This is my first installation with my new soldering station, Sugon A9. I did the job on 320C just to make sure I don't burn anything. Didn;t help apparently.

 

[jkyoho]

Hello. I couldn't find this error code in the guide. *==. Any idea is appreciated. Thanks. This is an OLED

more like a *=* from you vid.
*=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

 

[QuiTim]

Hello,
Nothng on docking. Single led flash when docked.
value of CMD is 3.7k.
If there was something wrong with that resistor, shouldn't;t there be a purple scene?

This is my first installation with my new soldering station, Sugon A9. I did the job on 320C just to make sure I don't burn anything. Didn;t help apparently.

Yes, it should be purple, but it's always worth backtracking on the points we worked, usually the problem is there somewhere. But the value checks out anyway.
Did you check for shorts on the caps and IC below apu?
Edit: Also did you remove dat0?

 

[frozenboy]

Hi, i got slow mode emmc on my v1, emunand still work, but stock get stuck, how am i fix it?. The nand brand is toshiba fw 2.74

 

[LogicalMadness]

And this is why hwfly and other Chinese based Mods are dying. We're sick of the lies and disengenuous money hungry crap. This story makes me want to invest in emmc stencils and be done with adaptors all together.

*Tries to start chant again...*
LET HWFLY DIE!

Post automatically merged: May 30, 2023

Totally agree, waiting for this one to arrive.

View attachment 374919

Lol, great minds think alike

I'm watching my shipping notices like a hawk!

 

[QuiTim]

Hi, i got slow mode emmc on my v1, emunand still work, but stock get stuck, how am i fix it?. The nand brand is toshiba fw 2.74

 

[FreeLander]

more like a *=* from you vid.
*=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

I'm sorry but what does that mean? The theory I have in mind is that the dat0 adaptor was shifted to another point and got shorted. I remember seeing @rehius says something like that.
But does that issue cause this error code? *=*?

Maybe the ultimate solution is to use this :

Post automatically merged: May 30, 2023

Yes, it should be purple, but it's always worth backtracking on the points we worked, usually the problem is there somewhere. But the value checks out anyway.
Did you check for shorts on the caps and IC below apu?
Edit: Also did you remove dat0?

Hello. Thanks for bing initiative.
Yes, no shorts.
Yes, it was removed. I even tried another.
Apprearny, the code is actually *=*. eMMC int failure which got mee to thinking that maybe the dat0 adaptor was shifted and got shorted. What do you think?

 

[themine1500]

Can anyone help diagnose the flashing lights to help me fix.. I am not getting glitch. Flashing blue.. I thought it was supposed to be yellow.