Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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hello guys I need your help, which option should I choose, which will be the best chip to put my switch, I will pay a technician to do this he sells the hwfly and picofly chps, he charges very expensive, 170€ he charges the same price for installation of the 2 chips, HWFLY and PICOFLY I want to know which of these chips should I choose, is the installation cost the same?
 
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hello guys I need your help, which option should I choose, which will be the best chip to put my switch, I will pay a technician to do this he sells the hwfly and picofly chps, he charges very expensive, 170€ he charges the same price for installation of the 2 chips, HWFLY and PICOFLY I want to know which of these chips should I choose, is the installation cost the
The soldering is comparable on both, so the installation cost would be the same in most cases, if not more expensive for PicoFly, because with HWFLY, most of the soldering points are covered by their flex cables.

As far as efficiency of the glitching, I am certainly biased, but many have seemed to report faster glitching with Picofly than HWFLY in many cases.
 
I have Picofly 2.67. I would like to update to latest firmware.

The picofly guide says to:

"place the desired firmware's ".bin" update in the root of your SD card and name it "update.bin"

The firmware post on this thread has two files though. The "fw_2.73.uf" file and the "update.bin" file. Am I supposed to change the name of the "fw_2.73.uf" file to "update.bin" and then update through toolbox? Then what is the original update.bin file for?
 
hello guys I need your help, which option should I choose, which will be the best chip to put my switch, I will pay a technician to do this he sells the hwfly and picofly chps, he charges very expensive, 170€ he charges the same price for installation of the 2 chips, HWFLY and PICOFLY I want to know which of these chips should I choose, is the installation cost the same?
Might seem expensive but thats 3 full rrp games OR.......CFW. Its worth it in the long run....and short....run...but im on board with lightninjay in that Pico does glitch faster.
 
Switch v1 RP2040 w/ 51 ohm resistor &
Single Mosfet w/ 3.3k resistor work and fast boot
Wow. did some research on Power MOSFETS and got this from 'rs-online':

'The transistor voltage rating corresponds directly to the doping and thickness of the N-epitaxial layer, with the current rating being a result of the channel width. There is also a direct link between the component area and level of current that can be sustained by this type of device. The power MOSFET allows for low gate drive functionality, rapid switching speed, and advanced paralleling capabilities.'

Coupled with your pulldown resistor, I would hope it would glitch fast because that IRF8736PBF is a chunky boi compared to the generally used IRFHS8342 for the pico mod.
 
I have Picofly 2.67. I would like to update to latest firmware.

The picofly guide says to:

"place the desired firmware's ".bin" update in the root of your SD card and name it "update.bin"

The firmware post on this thread has two files though. The "fw_2.73.uf" file and the "update.bin" file. Am I supposed to change the name of the "fw_2.73.uf" file to "update.bin" and then update through toolbox? Then what is the original update.bin file for?
I don't mean to be rude, but "place the desired firmware's '.bin' update" is pretty clear that you shouldn't be grabbing a .uf2 file and trying to turn it into a .bin file.
 
Just assembled my first rp2040-zero in oled, everything went ok but when I turn off the switch I can't turn it on. I need to disconnect the battery and after a few minutes I can turn it on. What can that be?
maybe it is the same issue as me,on the page 408 #8143
 
What do you guys use for neatly cutting the outer shield so the pico doesn't bulge. I have a mini drill set and I've tried both red bits, which were awful. A simple scissors cuts fine but don't look pretty at the end. Any suggestions among these?
you really don't have to cut. just bend the frame a little
 
under the cpu/emmc
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but post photos
Sorry I was away from motherbored. Here it is, all red is the lost traces. System wont boot. Blackscreen
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Yes, did you ruin that point?
Redl lines are the damaged traces. System wont boot. Blackscreen. What do you think?
 

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