Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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hello i have a v2 that i test with mosfet and cpu flex and it always gives yellow light but the dat 0 is ok i measured the value of the board and on the chip and it is the same the firmware is 2.64

View attachment 365747
You would not be getting the yellow light if your DAT0 is ok and you have the appropriate LED debug codes showing up. So long as when you flashed your board, you saw a single red light directly after flashing, you can trust the color codes to be telling you the part of the code that the PicoFly is failing on.

This means you definitely need to check your DAT0 all over for good solder connections.
 
You would not be getting the yellow light if your DAT0 is ok and you have the appropriate LED debug codes showing up. So long as when you flashed your board, you saw a single red light directly after flashing, you can trust the color codes to be telling you the part of the code that the PicoFly is failing on.

This means you definitely need to check your DAT0 all over for good solder connections.
I checked it and soldered it again 6 times, I changed the chip and the same thing, the 16.0.2 update does not affect the operation of the chips right?

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 
And you're only doing it to get the data back, mostly, correct?
Yep, but you could technically put some mask on it that cures with UV and its permanent. That would come with a MASSIVE disclaimer though. Many folks will disable the fix afterwards to prevent people from using it.
 
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Has any of you tried both HWFly and this?

I have an unflashable V3 in the kids patched Erista (Samsung), I had ordered a V5 but the Ali seller obviously couldn't tell the difference then argued with me once I informed them it was wrong :glare:, I also have a HWFly V5 from a different seller in my Mariko (Toshiba)

I was debating on replacing the HWFly V3 with the V5 then installing one of these in my Mariko, I'm just wanting to know what peoples opinions are and comparisons between the two, and if swapping it all over is worth while.
 
Has any of you tried both HWFly and this?

I have an unflashable V3 in the kids patched Erista (Samsung), I had ordered a V5 but the Ali seller obviously couldn't tell the difference then argued with me once I informed them it was wrong :glare:, I also have a HWFly V5 from a different seller in my Mariko (Toshiba)

I was debating on replacing the HWFly V3 with the V5 then installing one of these in my Mariko, I'm just wanting to know what peoples opinions are and comparisons between the two, and if swapping it all over is worth while.
Why not just install PicoFly all around? It seems, in my opinion, to be the more cost-effective and reliable installation (even being so new to the scene).
 
Why not just install PicoFly all around? It seems, in my opinion, to be the more cost-effective and reliable installation (even being so new to the scene).
Because I haven't had the V5 that long, ordered it to replace my SX Core that died so wanting to get some sort of use out of it lol

Is the double boot thing when powering off present on the PicoFLY?
 
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Why not just install PicoFly all around? It seems, in my opinion, to be the more cost-effective and reliable installation (even being so new to the scene).

But then the chips he has go to waste.

I'd say, use what you have if its working fine. Anything for the future go PicoFly.

Sounds like you're savvy though, so maybe look for some broken NSWs to fix and resell them w\ your old HWFlys. Then you can easily have PicoFlys in EVERYTHING! MUAHAHAHAHA!
 
No offense but seeing how you butchered those poor traces on pico does not make your opinion valid to not use hot air gun

View attachment 365761
Hey, don't throw shade about butchering USB traces that don't affect the function of the board (after it's been flashed to 2.61+)

Matter o fact, I intentionally ripped all my USB traces and @LogicalMadness chopped all his off, including part of the ground plane, and he still got his board working....
 
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Hey, don't throw shade about butchering USB traces that don't affect the function of the board (after it's been flashed to 2.61+)

Matter o fact, I intentionally ripped all my USB traces and @LogicalMadness chopped all his off, including part of the ground plane, and he still got his board working....

Shhh, keep it secret... keep it safe... ;)
 
Hey, don't throw shade about butchering USB traces that don't affect the function of the board (after it's been flashed to 2.61+)

Matter o fact, I intentionally ripped all my USB traces and @LogicalMadness chopped all his off, including part of the ground plane, and he still got his board working....
I am fully aware that usb port is not needed on 2.61+

My post was rather to discourage not using hot air because something else might go wrong in the process such as removing capacitors, ripping other traces etc.

And on intentional ripping traces.. well that's your board. Do what you want with it. But I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.
 
But then the chips he has go to waste.

I'd say, use what you have if its working fine. Anything for the future go PicoFly.

Sounds like you're savvy though, so maybe look for some broken NSWs to fix and resell them w\ your old HWFlys. Then you can easily have PicoFlys in EVERYTHING! MUAHAHAHAHA!

TBH I do keep looking for OLED's but everybody wants so much for them, sometimes more than brand new!
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No offense but seeing how you butchered those poor traces on pico does not make your opinion valid to not use hot air gun

View attachment 365761
Its possible to remove with low-melt without a hot air station
 
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TBH I do keep looking for OLED's but everybody wants so much for them, sometimes more than brand new!
Then just buy a new one
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That's exactly what I did. Kapton on caps and hot air on USB, went out smooth
Why would u even bother putting kapton on the caps?
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I've tried installing 2 different types now. This is the only one that has worked well for me.
The only real way to do it is REBALLING and perm Dat0 :grog:
 
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