Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

haipro287

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I am having problem while installing rp2040 zero with mosfet for my friend's mariko. The mod chip always shows blue-> cyan (I guess) and boots to OFW. but when Nintendo logo appears, click reset button in rp2040, it starts glitching and tada: green led + boots to hekate. It's look like @Rodel said but I have already update v2.64 firmware and removed regulator in rp2040. Please help me figure the problem.
 

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linuxares

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Will also attempt to add this tonight. I do not personally have any experience with the OLED, but I will do my best to include the most accurate information I can find in V.3
Btw, the "Downloads" on GBAtemp allows you to upload quite big files. I tried to upload your PDF and it allowed the size :) If you don't wanna host it on a filelocker site.
 

abal1000x

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I am having problem while installing rp2040 zero with mosfet for my friend's mariko. The mod chip always shows blue-> cyan (I guess) and boots to OFW. but when Nintendo logo appears, click reset button in rp2040, it starts glitching and tada: green led + boots to hekate. It's look like @Rodel said but I have already update v2.64 firmware and removed regulator in rp2040. Please help me figure the problem.
blue->cyan->ofw
means the rpi do the glitch, but theres no expected response.
but then you click reset and the glitch happened.

I suspect the clk is troubled. You might try to clean it again with IPA, maybe there is flux residue in there. Or you could try to shorten the wire, to lower the resistance.

i also happened with the blue->cyan, but it never goes green whatever i do. Then i change the mosfet and its working.
 

rehius

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I am having problem while installing rp2040 zero with mosfet for my friend's mariko. The mod chip always shows blue-> cyan (I guess) and boots to OFW. but when Nintendo logo appears, click reset button in rp2040, it starts glitching and tada: green led + boots to hekate. It's look like @Rodel said but I have already update v2.64 firmware and removed regulator in rp2040. Please help me figure the problem.
no problem, after booting to OFW hold power button and choose "Reset", that should work.

Either that or redo your mosfet setup to increase glitch power (thicker wires, second mosfet, etc)

The glitch algorithm might be improved in later firmware versions to support the auto warm boot trick, but even with that you have to have working OFW.
 
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haipro287

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no problem, after booting to OFW hold power button and choose "Reset", that should work.

Either that or redo your mosfet setup to increase glitch power (thicker wires, second mosfet, etc)

The glitch algorithm might be improved in later firmware versions to support the auto warm boot trick, but even with that you have to have working OFW.
You mean power options -> restart? I 've just tried that but it didn't work
 

Dee87

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I am having problem while installing rp2040 zero with mosfet for my friend's mariko. The mod chip always shows blue-> cyan (I guess) and boots to OFW. but when Nintendo logo appears, click reset button in rp2040, it starts glitching and tada: green led + boots to hekate. It's look like @Rodel said but I have already update v2.64 firmware and removed regulator in rp2040. Please help me figure the problem.
a second mosfet will help with ur issue had the same problem fixed it with installing a second mosfet and that did the trick
 
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handsom_tomato

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Original idea:
Just a quick one... I managed to find a place where the chip sits low enough so it doesn't bulge the case out...

I cut the top half of the ram shield off, left the APU side.
Took off the side rail the ram shield clips down onto. This leaves just enough space for the IC on the bottom of the Picofly to sit in between the group of Switch IC's in that area.

I then insulated the bottom of the Picofly PCB with a double layer of kapton tape.

The top part of the shield was cut away and kapton tape placed over to hold wiring and chip in place - and to insulate any top casing from coming into contact with the chip...

Just in case you need USB one day.
Up to you if you want to remove, but hey... :)
I will repost my image for those who want to install Pico without removing USB ports, etc. In my case, the USB port part protruded about 1mm from the metal plate on the back, but the back cover closed without any problems. By the way, in my installation, unfortunately, one of the capacitors in the APU part went missing somewhere (so I'm soldering the wires directly onto the pad), and only one mosfet is present, but it works without any problems!

Note: You need to remove the shield near the RAM, and there are very small capacitors in that area. You need to work carefully and carefully.

 
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haipro287

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really and u still have issue what wires did u use? lets see a picture
I'm using 0.1mm enameled wire. I 've just pulled off sp1 cap while trying to solder the broken wire (but thing goes as the same as before (when the cap still there))
 

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Dee87

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I'm using 0.1mm enameled wire. I 've just pulled off sp1 cap while trying to solder the broken wire (but thing goes as the same as before (when the cap still there))
u need thicker wires on cap to mosfet and gnd to mosfet thats why its not working properly

on the raspi there are a fec caps u can take of and use them to replace them
 

Dee87

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I'm using 0.1mm enameled wire. I 've just pulled off sp1 cap while trying to solder the broken wire (but thing goes as the same as before (when the cap still there))

ClickMe for the caps on rp2040
Post automatically merged:

I'm using 0.1mm enameled wire. I 've just pulled off sp1 cap while trying to solder the broken wire (but thing goes as the same as before (when the cap still there))
plus since ur doing 2 mosfets anyways just drive on wire to each cap like i did

View attachment 2022_0213_201214_002.JPG
Post automatically merged:

Can I flash directly to 2.64 brand new rpzero or do I have to flash 2.5 + update than 2.64?
just flash it
 
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haipro287

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u need thicker wires on cap to mosfet and gnd to mosfet thats why its not working properly

on the raspi there are a fec caps u can take of and use them to replace them


I have a lot of 0201 1uf 6.3v cap so it's not a problem, just too lazy to solder it back, too tiny 🤣 maybe I will try a thicker wire. In my local forum, they are using 0.1mm without any problem 😓
Post automatically merged:

u need thicker wires on cap to mosfet and gnd to mosfet thats why its not working properly

on the raspi there are a fec caps u can take of and use them to replace them

But why it worked when I click reset button :(
 
Last edited by haipro287,

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