it will because the RST still goes through the motherboard into the slot for the EMMC. It's just going to work. The RST that got broke off is on the EMMC, not the entire pin going to the motherboard.u think the hwfly is gonna make a difference if u dont get a rst connection it also needs it
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check for continuity between the D0 cables....
and make sure there are no bridges
if you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.
Any pictures or videos?if you use the flex cable instead of soldering to the middle pins you can solder to the resistor under the mosfet section
I think I bridged 3.3v and the rst pins on the eMMC connector…u think the hwfly is gonna make a difference if u dont get a rst connection it also needs it
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check for continuity between the D0 cables....
and make sure there are no bridges
In some CFW packs it's under "More configs" option.In hekate i choose reboot -> ofw, it reboot then blank screen and back to hekate again.
i also try turn on then press vol+ and vol-, it tries to boot then back to hekate.
Is it normal?
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I cannot reboot to OFW (black screen).
Never used fw2.5 (because of different pico sn), only 2.6 alpha and 2.61.
How to do "Full Stock" using hekate ?
(I already at latest firmware 16.0.1, so cant do update)
not fo yet that I've seenAny pictures or videos?
Just want to ask some details, so what will be the best way to update the OFW (SysNAND) and EmuNAND?OFW boot also breaks if you:
- apply system update in Atmosphere mode
- use daybreak instead of the official update way
Really don`t worry Mate, if it works OK and as you said you not 100% sure where the smoke came from? and after triple checking all joints , you can`t see anything wrong.. Then just be done with it and move on, Be happy it`s working,Looked white to me, but of course I was panicking a the time and I may not remember correctly
A good ending would be if it was only some residual fresh flux getting burnt, but I don't think that the temperature could be THAT hot
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Of course I triple checked the flex cable and both SP1 and SP2, but there's no obvious short or bad soldering. And everything just works, so I'm pretty confused but feels a bit scary to just close everything after that
Thanks. Tried that and worked smoothly, the melting solder was the secret sauce.I’ve got a cheap Amazon hot air. I do 350c at 40% air and removed everything perfectly. Added low melt to all points
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OFW - update from the OFW (true OFW boot using Vol+/Vol-) or Full Stock mode (no atmo patches applied) using WiFiJust want to ask some details, so what will be the best way to update the OFW (SysNAND) and EmuNAND?
- OFW - by booting to OFW and updating directly via Ninty servers? Should be ok if I didn't mess with homebrew on the SysNAND, right?
- EmuNAND - I only used Daybreak in the past, which are the alternatives for updating and not corrupting the BOOT0 with Pico?
U guess or u know?I think I bridged 3.3v and the rst pins on the eMMC connector…
It interferes the rst and gets a yellow led I guess?
(Also the console is just black without booting into OFW, after disconnecting CLK the console would just boot normally)
sureCan I install the mosfet at 2 points as shown? I saw 1 video on youtube doing so, it will be easier for me to solder instead of 2 points soldering outside but i dont know if it works? Thank you very muchView attachment 364044
that is very strange. what happens on v2.6?so, installed picofly into an oled today, with fw2.5_nw_toshiba - works great no issues, boot atmoshphere, boot ofw, etc.
when i install 2.61 it wont boot ofw - hangs after nintendo logo. revert to 2.5 and it works again? any idea what could be causing this?
also hangs after nintendo screen.that is very strange. what happens on v2.6?
also,(just wondering if i can just leave it on this firmware and close up the console or wait for a fix) is the boot 0 bug present in fw_2.5_nw_toshiba_fix.uf2 or was that only in the previous 2.5? thanks for your timeok, I have 3 mariko boards (v2, OLED, Lite), will test all of them.
once reproduced it should be easy to fix
toshiba fix is the same as 2.5. the bug was in the software unlock thingy. it won't trigger unless you use unlock via the toolboxalso,(just wondering if i can just leave it on this firmware and close up the console or wait for a fix) is the boot 0 bug present in fw_2.5_nw_toshiba_fix.uf2 or was that only in the previous 2.5? thanks for your timei appreciate all your effort and help.
Thanks, I used the unlock Uf2 file so that should be fine.toshiba fix is the same as 2.5. the bug was in the software unlock thingy. it won't trigger unless you use unlock via the toolbox