Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[thesjaakspoiler]

New to soldering here. I'm trying to install a PicoFly and am currently trying to solder on the cable. Thoughts? How bad is my first attempt? Also, I ended up getting a bit of solder on the capacitor next to the one on the right. I don't think its touching/bridging anything, but should I still try to get it off?

Don't assume it is not bridging anything. That caught me off guard once.
Measure for continuity on the left and right side to see if it's ok.

 

[Warbeast81]

New to soldering here. I'm trying to install a PicoFly and am currently trying to solder on the cable. Thoughts? How bad is my first attempt? Also, I ended up getting a bit of solder on the capacitor next to the one on the right. I don't think its touching/bridging anything, but should I still try to get it off?

Here is a tip get some pcb uv mask cover over any caps you don't want to bridge only takes a few seconds..

 

[Loren_Son]

I've been searching (unsuccessfully) for a guide to compiling Picofly firmware... does anyone know if it exists? Thanks.

 

[Kilroytbs]

I'm using the Hwfly Clones from AliExpress with a fw_2.73 Firmware. Is there a newer version of the firmware available, and is it worth updating the chip?

 

[Gbasam64]

Does anyone have a link on Aliexpress to the Oled flex cable for the kamikaze no wire method.
The F3 v2.3

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

I've been searching (unsuccessfully) for a guide to compiling Picofly firmware... does anyone know if it exists? Thanks.

It is done with GitHub Actions.
Rehuis added a workflow that you can execute and if all goes well, you'll end up with the binaries.
Fork or clone the Github repository and then just run this workflow.
https://github.com/rehius/usk/blob/main/.github/workflows/build.yml
Even with the free tier account, you can run these workflows for a number of times.

You can also set up an environment for compiling source code for the RPi and follow the steps in the YAML file.
If you set the environment variables correctly then you can just execute all commands on your pc.

 

[cowboy619]

I'm using the Hwfly Clones from AliExpress with a fw_2.73 Firmware. Is there a newer version of the firmware available, and is it worth updating the chip?

2.8 is the latest but no real need in updating

 

[Console-Center]

Does anyone have a link on Aliexpress to the Oled flex cable for the kamikaze no wire method.
The F3 v2.3

These pop up sometimes, hard to find. You can message sellers directly on ali and make it happen

 

[Loren_Son]

I've been searching (unsuccessfully) for a guide to compiling Picofly firmware... does anyone know if it exists? Thanks.

I'm using the Hwfly Clones from AliExpress with a fw_2.73 Firmware. Is there a newer version of the firmware available, and is it worth updating the chip?

Last version it´s 2.80

 

[twins333]

2.8 is the latest but no real need in updating

what do you mean "no real need in upgrading"? you should definitely upgrade to at least 2.75, but 2.80 is definitely recommended, since it has some boot logic fixes. abal1000x's firmware can also be used, since he also made attempts to fix the pi's powerdown and boot (rare)issues.
Changelog: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-78#post-10090767

 

[Loren_Son]

It is done with GitHub Actions.
Rehuis added a workflow that you can execute and if all goes well, you'll end up with the binaries.
Fork or clone the Github repository and then just run this workflow.
https://github.com/rehius/usk/blob/main/.github/workflows/build.yml
Even with the free tier account, you can run these workflows for a number of times.

You can also set up an environment for compiling source code for the RPi and follow the steps in the YAML file.
If you set the environment variables correctly then you can just execute all commands on your pc.

After 4 days, I found the problem. The resistor parallel to the point RST had gone out of value. It's 10 KOhm, and it was at 2 MOhm.

With your instructions I managed to modify the code and compile it on Github... I haven't been able to do it in VS but it's fine for me.

Thanks

 

[Gbasam64]

These pop up sometimes, hard to find. You can message sellers directly on ali and make it happen

Found it, the listing was a generic RP2040 with no pictures. had to ask the seller to confirm. Probably done that to prevent the listing from being flagged or something.

 

[s4n0suk3]

Hey all, I could really use some help with this one... I did two OLED Picofly Kamikaze installs today - One went totally fine, the other not so much. I thought everything was going good, as I didn't have any issues during the install. I tested that glitching was working at every stage, including once it was back together. But when I dropped the files on the MicroSD and inserted it in the switch, then tried to boot, I got a screen full of colorful noise. I thought maybe the SD was bad, so I pulled it and booted again. The glitch worked fine and landed me on the "No SD Card" screen. I then pressed the + and - buttons to boot to OFW, and was greeted with a very nice (lots of sarcasm here) bright blue screen. I powered off, and again tried to boot - this time the glitching failed, and it sent me straight to the bright blue screen.

At that point I realized that I had shielded the chip in other ways, but forgot to cover it with a big piece of kapton tape before putting the big metal shield back on the console. I figured something was shorting or touching (I've had a similar issue with V1/V2s before), so I pulled it back apart. I added some tape, confirmed it still glitched, and then put it back together. But again when I booted with the SD card in, or tried to boot to OFW with no SD card, the screen was garbled noise or blue, respectively.

The install went smooth so I was pretty surprised. I removed the modchip and still had the same issue. I removed the upper flex and inspected everything below. I did notice that I accidentally cut the clock line where the trace meets the via, so I soldered a wire to that; still no change. I thought maybe the line above the dat0 kamikaze point (on that first layer, goes to the resistor) was cut, so I ran a jumper just in case; no change. I thought maybe my dat0 point had come undone or something else was damaged there that I didn't notice, so I drilled again to remove all of the UV resin; nothing was wrong, but still the same blue screen (modchip is removed at this point so no glitching obviously). I inspected where I cut the APU shield on both sides, and there are no cut or damaged traces; everything on the board is clean. I resoldered all connections using a new flex, and a new Picofly chip; same results. The last thing I then tried was removing the APU flex and inspecting for damage, of which there was none; same blue screen when booting.

I probed all points (A, B, C, D, 3.3v), and everything reads good. At this point I have no clue what could be wrong. Any ideas?

check apu caps if shorted, happens to me one time and it was a slight short with tin

 

[Gbasam64]

check apu caps if shorted, happens to me one time and it was a slight short with tin

Slight short sounds funny, either it’s shorting or not. Or do you mean that the pressure from the shield and heatsink is pushing something together.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Slight short sounds funny, either it’s shorting or not.

I think he means a minor thread of tin bridging the capacitor.
That happened me too.

 

[Danook28]

what is the value for this capacitor and why is read short from both side??? i remove capacitor same the point also short both side.

i replace m92t36 chip with new one every point read good after add charge cable it try to boot and i try with other case with good battery show nintendo logo then black secreen i read the point near ship it give short some capacitor i buy this chip from aliexpress.the mistake i was forgot about bridge here

2 capacitor up chip near switch drow in pic was to small bridge i fix it. but now what must i change. why charge blowing chip it is Orginal charge cable.

orange point all capacitor value is not same the value i read in working switch
3v3 0.501 v
near capacitor 3v3 is short
the 3 capacitor
1.0485v
2.short
3.0.158v
4. that near 2 small resistor is short.

 

[detilmalala]

HELP please!!!
I have an OLED switch that does not turn on, at the point marked in red I have a measurement of 200 with the multimeter in diode drop. I removed the IC and the same measurement continues, does anyone know where that line goes on the board?

I add: the fault occurred because I left the 3.3v shorted to ground. Then I connected the battery and the console no longer turned on, any idea what could be wrong?

 

[jkyoho]

HELP please!!!
I have an OLED switch that does not turn on, at the point marked in red I have a measurement of 200 with the multimeter in diode drop. I removed the IC and the same measurement continues, does anyone know where that line goes on the board?

0.200v diode measured on 1.8v line is quite normal IMO. And the area you measured comes from max77620H coil I circle in red.

 

[detilmalala]

0.200v diode measured on 1.8v line is quite normal IMO. And the area you measured comes from max77620H coil I circle in red.

I measured the point marked in red on a working board, and the value is between 300 and 350. That's why I ask...

 

[jkyoho]

check your 3.3v stepdown chip if it was blow by leaving it short to ground.