Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,682,661
  • Replies Replies 17,052
  • Likes Likes 15
I'd guess you've mixed up the cmd/clk wires. go double check
Nope.
Took out all of those same components and put them in another V2. It worked.
My mods up to this point have been done with a mosfet at the back of the board.
So on the problematic board, I changed to using the Sp1 and Sp2 points. Same wires and chip and it worked.
So in future, Im sticking to Sp1 and Sp2 points.
 
Are you play game with vaibration buzzing joy con????
After many tests, you are right. Stronger vibrations / shaking make it start or stop working.
I'll send it back to the service center for repair. As I have a warranty for their service till the end of this year. Evidently, the fault of the repair service of making bad solder.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Danook28
Tinyfly v2.0 - the layout is based on the well known rp2040-tiny from waveshare but made for switch.

1. All necessary pads are exposed and the LED DIN as well.
2. Resistors and capacitors are 0402 size for easier soldering
3. Default D0,CMD,CLK resistors are 100,100,47ohm respectively

I've attached here the gerber file and bom/pick and place files.

Updates:
Tinyfly v2.0.zip
- Initial Release
Tinyfly v2.0b.zip - Added extra pads for GND and 3V3 line on the right side. Swapped CPU and RST at the bottom part. Some components are changed to basic parts if planning to fabricate using JLCPCB.
Tinyfly v2.0c.zip - Adjusted few and changed components to basic parts for cheaper fabrication.

Images:
View attachment 425415View attachment 425418View attachment 425417View attachment 425416


Component Mappings:
View attachment 426981
Thanks for the sharing, i will give it a try. Do you have any tutorial for the flashing and installing process on a switch. Thanks again to share your amazing work.
EDIT : My bad i found that all is explain in previous post, thanks again
 
Last edited by consolecraft25,
does someone know where we can find this small chip and this kamikaze flex ??? :) thanks
Taobao. And AliExpress from time to time but they get delisted very quickly.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240816_113600639.jpg
    PXL_20240816_113600639.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 53
  • Like
Reactions: consolecraft25
I wonder why it get delisted quickly and on the same time you get a full page of hwfly clone :)
It's a custom design by one of the installer in china. Think he might be reporting the listing himself. Even the listing on taobao doesn't stay on long. Also they already have custom tools for kamikaze dat0 that is newbie friendly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: consolecraft25
does someone know where we can find this small chip and this kamikaze flex ??? :) thanks
A modder modded 5 of devices using that small chip and were sent back 3/5 of them for not being able to boot into ofw and it ended up coming to my place because he didn't know why. The answer is the same with some clones chip on the market (poorly customization). Stay away from these one if you ask me. Sticking with your trusty zero,tiny or tinyfly (psychoneon one) .
And it is actually tiny even smaller than tiny board.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240829_085040.jpg
    IMG_20240829_085040.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 55
Man it's incredibly hard to search for a solution in these forums. I'm at my 20th or so install on an OLED with the good old DAT0 adapter, but this time I soldered the 3.3v caps together, I thought no big deal, the flex cables used to have them together anyway. Everything else went ok as usual, or so I thought, but I'm getting a black screen. I think the picoply flashes the glitch as normal as far as I can tell, it loops the blue flashes until it flashes once which means it's complete I believe? Is something wrong my the screen's flex cable (it looks perfectly fine under microscope) or is it my 3.3v thing causing an issue? Diode readings seemed normal to me, and I removed power to the picofly and it's still a black screen, so it's clearly not a chip issue. Or could it even be something's wrong with my Dat0 (tried removing it, no difference)? Anyone have an obvious insight?
 
Last edited by Endracion,
Man it's incredibly hard to search for a solution in these forums. I'm at my 20th or so install on an OLED, but this time I soldered the 3.3v caps together, I thought no big deal, the flex cables used to have them together anyway. Everything else went ok as usual, or so I thought, but I'm getting a black screen. I think the picoply flashes the glitch as normal as far as I can tell, it loops the blue flashes until it flashes once which means it's complete I believe? Is something wrong my the screen's flex cable (it looks perfectly fine under microscope) or is it my 3.3v thing causing an issue? Diode readings seemed normal to me, and I removed power to the picofly and it's still a black screen, so it's clearly not a chip issue. Or could it even be something's wrong with my Dat0? Anyone have an obvious insight?
Try remove C point, boot ofw, factory reset, connect C point.
 
Try remove C point, boot ofw, factory reset, connect C point.
Sorry, which one is C point? I don't use any flex cables, just a straight RP2040-Tiny with wires and a back mosfet and I only know the points by name like on the PicoFlyGuide.
Post automatically merged:

Small update, although removing the DAT0, and then separately the CPU mosfet didn't solve anything. I did remove all the wires and now it at least boots back into OFW. I guess I will just restart from the beginning, at least I've confirmed it wasn't my bridged 3.3V. Still a mystery to me though.
 
Last edited by Endracion,
glich es más lento 2.81, 4 segundos con 2.73 y 2.76 demora 2.5 segundos con tarjeta sd puesta
si demora .5 segundos en el glich pero se siente mas inestable no siempre inicia al segundo
Buddy, this is a english only forum. Olease read the terms of the forum

https://gbatemp.net/help/terms/

Are you asking a question or making a statement?
 
Sorry, which one is C point? I don't use any flex cables, just a straight RP2040-Tiny with wires and a back mosfet and I only know the points by name like on the PicoFlyGuide.
Post automatically merged:

Small update, although removing the DAT0, and then separately the CPU mosfet didn't solve anything. I did remove all the wires and now it at least boots back into OFW. I guess I will just restart from the beginning, at least I've confirmed it wasn't my bridged 3.3V. Still a mystery to me though.
only need to remove dat0 and reset console in ofw then reconnect dat0.
 
It's a custom design by one of the installer in china. Think he might be reporting the listing himself. Even the listing on taobao doesn't stay on long. Also they already have custom tools for kamikaze dat0 that is newbie friendly.
Interesting! What kind of custom tools? I'm curious...
 
Hi...

Some time ago my friend miralatijera made some improvements in the original code.

Main changes are that now it boots very very fast and the update count is stored in flash instead burning internal fuses.

Feel free to use.
This may lose compatibility with Toshiba & SanDisk eMMC. The current design is made to support the widest possible range of hardware.

Also there was no "burning internal fuses", the update count was implemented by writing single bits on the specific flash page. This was made to avoid wearing out of the SPI flash where the firmware is stored (by reducing erases of that flash page). Complete re-write of the page on every update may eventually lead to the device failure.

P.S. Fixed the RP2040-Tiny LED indication in the fw 2.77, if someone still needs that.
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum