Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[lightninjay]

This is biggest soldring iron tool in the world huh..

More importantly, they're holding onto the hot part...

 

[frostieff]

I want to install picofly but scared of breaking the switch.

Some websites like Ebay and Esty can do it for you, you have to pay for postage + services.

 

[Megradome]

Getting short short ** error when booting console which means RST not connected. But it is. Here are screenshots.

 

[deeps]

Getting short short ** error when booting console which means RST not connected. But it is. Here are screenshots.

Yeah you've certainly connected the shit out of that rst point. probably grounded it also.

 

[Nephiel]

Getting short short ** error when booting console which means RST not connected. But it is. Here are screenshots.

Those solder points are not looking too good... Odds are it's either not connected or shorted.

More importantly, they're holding onto the hot part...

It's OK, it obviously wasn't plugged in, anyway.

 

[rr8400]

That would be =* "D0 is not connected"

Managed to connect it and now it's giving me the two quick yellow blinks again. RST right? At this point I have no idea what the problem might be. I've changed the cables 2 times and it still flashes 2 yellow blinks

Edit: Btw I noticed this near the power/volume button flat connector. Think this has something to do with it?

 

[bvang913]

Got an OLED picofly install that's giving me problems. Was working fine for the past week, now it won't boot up. Took it apart to check all the wiring and diode values. Everything checked out fine. Still doesn't want to boot up when I plugged it back in. Then out of curiosity I started checking for shorts. 3.3v and ground were shorted together somehow. Removed the chip, maybe some solder underneath the chip got shorted somehow. Nothing there and I didn't see anything on top of the chip that would've shorted them together. Plugged in the battery with the chip removed and it showed the Nintendo logo then battery symbol in the corner but nothing after that. Is it fried? Thanks in advance

 

[lightninjay]

Managed to connect it and now it's giving me the two quick yellow blinks again. RST right? At this point I have no idea what the problem might be. I've changed the cables 2 times and it still flashes 2 yellow blinks

Edit: Btw I noticed this near the power/volume button flat connector. Think this has something to do with it?

 

[Takezo-San]

View attachment 450275

Beat me to it. Solder mask all those button pads before soldering on the resistors. Always. Or change the angle of that resistor.

Post automatically merged: Jul 31, 2024

Got an OLED picofly install that's giving me problems. Was working fine for the past week, now it won't boot up. Took it apart to check all the wiring and diode values. Everything checked out fine. Still doesn't want to boot up when I plugged it back in. Then out of curiosity I started checking for shorts. 3.3v and ground were shorted together somehow. Removed the chip, maybe some solder underneath the chip got shorted somehow. Nothing there and I didn't see anything on top of the chip that would've shorted them together. Plugged in the battery with the chip removed and it showed the Nintendo logo then battery symbol in the corner but nothing after that. Is it fried? Thanks in advance

Does it charge now?

 

[bvang913]

Beat me to it. Solder mask all those button pads before soldering on the resistors. Always. Or change the angle of that resistor.

Post automatically merged: Jul 31, 2024

Does it charge now?

Have it plugged in at the moment. Thought it was just low on battery so I reinstalled with a new Tiny. But I've been checking up every so often and still nothing. I might uninstall the chip again and see if it'll boot up to ofw.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

This is biggest soldring iron tool in the world huh..

Dude, you missed the joke!
I once tried holding a soldering iron like that. Not recommended.

I guess spot welding that nasty DAT0 adapter to the PCB will make sure that is won't come loose.

Post automatically merged: Jul 31, 2024

Getting short short ** error when booting console which means RST not connected. But it is. Here are screenshots.

The trace on the left side of the second screenshot looks like it might be damaged.
Maybe with a fine probe check if it is interrupted or not.

 

[Takezo-San]

Have it plugged in at the moment. Thought it was just low on battery so I reinstalled with a new Tiny. But I've been checking up every so often and still nothing. I might uninstall the chip again and see if it'll boot up to ofw.

Do you Kapton the entire back side of the tiny when doing your Installs? But good idea to remove everything and see if stock works. If not, might be a battery control ic. Possibly. Then start looking around chips for shorts. Let's see what we get.

 

[bvang913]

Do you Kapton the entire back side of the tiny when doing your Installs? But good idea to remove everything and see if stock works. If not, might be a battery control ic. Possibly. Then start looking around chips for shorts. Let's see what we get.

Yes always cover the back side in kapton. But yes I will look into doing more testing when I get a chance. But would bridging those 2 points on the picofly cause a power issue with the switch? Or is something like using a different charger etc cause this? Only reason I'm asking is this is a former client's switch.

 

[rr8400]

View attachment 450275

But if that's the problem, why is it giving me the ** code? Excuse my ignorance

 

[Nephiel]

But if that's the problem, why is it giving me the ** code? Excuse my ignorance

It probably isn't the only problem. I'm not sure that loose component in the last picture has anything to do with it, but it isn't good either.

Cleaning the flux around the RST point should help.

 

[nuage83]

Good morning,

***Google translate french to english.

I have already installed several RP2040 chips on Nintendo Switches. Recently I ordered clones on the aliexpress site at the following address:


https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.51.72225e5bK3T0G6&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra


The seller offers clones and originals. I bought a quantity of each.


On the clones, I only had feedback, with HS chip and code *=*


So I installed originals mainly on OLEDs and so far I have only had one response.


Yesterday, I installed a chip on a normal switch. When I turned the console back on to check if I had the No SD Card logo, I got a black screen with OK backlighting. However, I did not disassemble the motherboard. I tried to change the driver chip of the 8316 screen. Same problem. The console worked well on dock.


Today the console does not start at all, I checked the 3.3v on the chip and the motherboard and I get 0V No short circuit.


I'm going to end up throwing this console out the window.

 

[Takezo-San]

Yes always cover the back side in kapton. But yes I will look into doing more testing when I get a chance. But would bridging those 2 points on the picofly cause a power issue with the switch? Or is something like using a different charger etc cause this? Only reason I'm asking is this is a former client's switch.

I'm guessing the client did something they shouldn't have. Third party charger or something. Check the max chips or simply the pins of the usb c. Might be simple usb c swap. My money is on that

 

[lightninjay]

But if that's the problem, why is it giving me the ** code? Excuse my ignorance

Because you are effectively grounding out the RST point by having that pad on the picofly touch your solder joint. ** is related to the RST point.

 

[Nephiel]

Because you are effectively grounding out the RST point by having that pad on the picofly touch your solder joint. ** is related to the RST point.

But that would be grounding the CLK line, not RST. That's why I believe it's not the only problem.

 

[tsukimaru]

Hey there, long time no see guys. I was installing an RP 2040 tiny to a v1 patched console but for some reason I keep getting the *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU).
The switch boots normally after the error shows up. I've tried 3 different flex cables, but nothing seems to change. I initially used shielded 36awg wire, but nothing seems to change. then switched to enamel wire but it all stays the same.

If this is in the FAQ sorry but I didn't see it, but what should I try next?