Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I am on FW 2.67 but flashing the update with the toolbox to 2.72 is not working. After restart the console boots to OFW and the chip flashes yellow two times then short break flashes yellow two times again. After reboot the chip is working again but the firmware is not updated. Any tipps how to get that update working?
 
Seems to me like two separate =*, so it's probably a bad dat0 connection.
Cut the dat0 cable and measure the diode value (red on dat0 wire, black on ground/shield)
I change the wire to 0.3mm and the diode value is 0.758 v, it's still the same.
 

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Last edited by raksmey1231,
I am on FW 2.67 but flashing the update with the toolbox to 2.72 is not working. After restart the console boots to OFW and the chip flashes yellow two times then short break flashes yellow two times again. After reboot the chip is working again but the firmware is not updated. Any tipps how to get that update working?
I have the same issue
 
First lite attempt, no issues, straight boot, does the community accept my work or shall i stop and give up on modding?
 

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First lite attempt, no issues, straight boot, does the community accept my work or shall i stop and give up on modding?
If it's working you have your answer :)
But i'm curious, how is the CLK line soldered? It looks like it's behind the resistor.
Also the resistor seems too close to the boot button leg.
 

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This is just an idea since i'm not 100% sure but I think that with clk line gone, there was no syncronisation between APU and Emmc so it might have lead to emmc corruption when trying to write to it.
Even if this is the case, I have no idea on how to proceed but maybe @rehius could give us some input on the inner workings when he is available.
*Edit
In the meantime, i'm dying to see a photo of the work on that damaged point/trace :D
I actually rebuilt the track using 2 cables to point 27 of the chip, each cable comes out of one end of the cut track, the problem is that the console no longer gives video
 
I am on FW 2.67 but flashing the update with the toolbox to 2.72 is not working. After restart the console boots to OFW and the chip flashes yellow two times then short break flashes yellow two times again. After reboot the chip is working again but the firmware is not updated. Any tipps how to get that update working?

Same exact issue here. OLED-Sammy
 
If it's working you have your answer :)
But i'm curious, how is the CLK line soldered? It looks like it's behind the resistor.
Also the resistor seems too close to the boot button leg.
i have re done the CLK as it was indeed giving be slow mmc after benchmark moved resistor further away and soldered at the back of the resitor near boot button and its flawless now
 
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You can but be aware that this dat0 adapter is not very good. Some people (including myself) have had problems with it.
It seems that the tiny exposed copper part that goes under the emmc is a bit too big and alot of times makes contact not just with dat0 line/solder ball but with another one close to it as well (so in a way it creates a short under emmc)
You can give it a try, maybe it works for you, but just to be safe for the future order the "4 anchor" model which everyone says it's ok.
I fully subscribe to this, I've ordered some of those cheap-ass "OATO" adaptors and checked under the scope, the contact that goes to the eMMC is awful, it's a fkn round thing with a hole in the middle and sometimes completely closed.

Here's a pic in comparison to a old "angle" adaptor, see the difference for yourself. No wonder why these bastards short to other eMMC contacts. (Ninty, was this you? 😁)

Please don't buy these "OATO" adaptors, usually they have a test point for +3.3V line included, buy the ones that @QuiTim shared, those I tested in the past as well and are solid.
 

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I fully subscribe to this, I've ordered some of those cheap-ass "OATO" adaptors and checked under the scope, the contact that goes to the eMMC is awful, it's a fkn round thing with a hole in the middle and sometimes completely closed.

Here's a pic in comparison to a old "angle" adaptor, see the difference for yourself. No wonder why these bastards short to other eMMC contacts. (Ninty, was this you? 😁)

Please don't buy these "OATO" adaptors, usually they have a test point for +3.3V line included, buy the ones that @QuiTim shared, those I tested in the past as well and are solid.
Holy crap, that's some sloppy work indeed.
Seeing is believing, thanks for sharing.
 
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which cap? the one on the 3.3v rail or the other one?
Nevermind, I found out it still works like this, shorted ( I think)
Anyway, any tips for a purple led picofly?
My doubts about my setup is only the CPU flex that might not be perfect. But I only get a blue then purple led
I've already resoldered the clk wire and checked the continuity from the Pico to the clk on the emmc board
 
I fully subscribe to this, I've ordered some of those cheap-ass "OATO" adaptors and checked under the scope, the contact that goes to the eMMC is awful, it's a fkn round thing with a hole in the middle and sometimes completely closed.

Here's a pic in comparison to a old "angle" adaptor, see the difference for yourself. No wonder why these bastards short to other eMMC contacts. (Ninty, was this you? 😁)

Please don't buy these "OATO" adaptors, usually they have a test point for +3.3V line included, buy the ones that @QuiTim shared, those I tested in the past as well and are solid.
i still suggest skip those dat0 Adapter and learn how to reball it really isnt that hard and u only need a stencil and past they cost togehter 20 bucks and u have a bullet proof dat0 adaptor , no issues after a while whemn the dat0 adapter warm up and tends to bend
 
i still suggest skip those dat0 Adapter and learn how to reball it really isnt that hard and u only need a stencil and past they cost togehter 20 bucks and u have a bullet proof dat0 adaptor , no issues after a while whemn the dat0 adapter warm up and tends to bend
Totally agree, went this way for my first OLED. Though I still need to invest in a decent hot air station.
 
Totally agree, went this way for my first OLED. Though I still need to invest in a decent hot air station.
i got a hot air and soldering station from bangood for 100€ and ive been using it for 2 year without any issue had to change the hot air ceramic 3 months ago after over 16 months daily use.

so uit depends on what u mean with decent u just gotta get used to it :-9
 

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