Not really a tutorial per say but decided to create this since its dead easy for people that are used to soldering, and IMHO way better than to have to stick a JIG every time you boot (Not considering AutoRCM because of the possible battery issues that would occur if you forget to power it down every single time)

Basically we will bridge pins 9 and 10 on the joycon rail which would be the same as to what people were doing bending the pins together, but it would be 100% safe and you wouldn't have any chance of long term problems connecting and disconnecting the joycon.

- Remove the 4 triwing screws on the joycon

- Open it up and remove the philips screw holding the rail agains the plastic case.

- Remove the foam pad protecting the pins, and bridge as the picture below (if you prefer you could also use a wire)

This will not have any negative effect on the joycon or switch itself. If you want to boot into OFW just boot it normally.

If you want RCM, just hold power button + Volume UP and you are golden!

If by any reason you want to undo it, just use some solder wick and unbridge the contacts.


EDITED:


Since some people informed me of a non-permanent way using a reed switch (guide below) I decided to use it myself:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/f-g-joycon-mod-magnethax-switch-edition.502459/


Installed a reed switch to short pins 1-10 and now It only boots to rcm If I use a magnet on the back of the joycon

 

[LegzRwheelz]

Can now:

https://twitter.com/pixel_stuck/status/1000552886626148352

I'm new to Switch modding and *somewhat* understand what resistors do but I don't understand what the resistor is doing here. How does it make it a jig sometimes but act normal other times? What puts this into jig mode? If someone can explain how this resistor is accomplishing this I will do this over the mod that runs wires from the 1 & 10 pads up to the joycon release button (this closes the circuit). It's mechanical, not fancy and is undetectable but certainly does the job. Sorry for the noobish question.

 

[scotdotwtf]

i took apart my switch to get to the rail and then realized it was for the joycon

the switch motherboard is sure looking nice

Post automatically merged: Jan 8, 2024

the switch motherboard is sure looking nice

yipee it worked thanks

 

[scotdotwtf]

After a whle I decided to desolder the points just because off the weird bugs with not being able to go into wireless mode and overall glitches. I was able to remove the solder from both pins and happily it still works as normal! Not so permanent.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

I did this mod to an old JoyCon rail that had a damaged ribbon cable, but still works to do the mod with.
Lost my jig so it was the quickest way to get back into RCM.
Don't recommend permanently modding your actual JoyCons anymore but if you have a spare rail, this is a good mod to do. And the spare rails are only a few bucks. Recommend removing the plastic lock to make disconnecting the rail from the Switch easier.
I did pin 1+10. Pin 9+10 is easier to do, but Pin 9 is not actually a GND, so it's not a recommended pin to use. 1 and 7 are both GND. You need a wire if doing pin 1 or 7.
Might do the reed switch mod in the future. Since my Switch is always in a case booting into RCM is a bit of a hassle. But a magnet should work through the case.