Nintendo Switch OLED with HWFLY V4 doesn't boot anymore

MulmDiego

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Hey guys, i need some help with my Switch. Early 2023 i installed a modchip by myself. After some trial and error i finally got it to work. In Summer the Switch suddenly refused to boot without a reason. While trying to find the cause and trying to fix it, i accedentaly broke the D/CLK point next to the CPU. I found a guy that fixed it and send it back to me. The Switch worked fine until about two weeks ago. When trying to turn on my Switch, the modchip led was pulsing purple for a few seconds (never seen that before) and then became a static orange.
The first thing i tried was to reset the chip by shorting the two pins. The blue reset light came up, but the switch didn't boot into OFW as it should. Rebooting it, resulted in training (yellow pulsing) for around 10 minutes and a red led before trying again.
I dissasembled it and and saw that the guy who fixed it, also resoldered everything very professionally. I measured every point on the chip and they are as they should (D,A,C ~ 0.700V). I couldn't figure it out so i just tried to "reflow" the DAT0 Adapter with my heat gun. Still didn't boot. Also disconnection every cable from the modchip didn't bring my switch back to life. I let it sit for a few days and tried to boot again, with just screen and battery connected. Suddenly i saw the green light on the chip, turned my switch around and was greeted with a picture. I found it very strange, but decided to reassamble my switch, while booting it up multiple times in the process to make sure it worked. With my switch finally assembled, i was surprised to find out that the same shit is happening as before. I have no clue and hope somebody has an idea whats wrong.

idk if that's normal, but D and A are shorted and have exactly the same diode value. Maybe a short under the emmc?

Thanks
 

Hassal

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You bridged CMD and CLK with your flawed reflow process. Did you use flux or just heated the chip?

Add flux this time and reflow properly so the joints break.
 

MulmDiego

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Yes, I've used flux and just tried it again. Still doesn't work. How long and at what temparature and distance should i reflow it?
 

Hassal

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Each workstation is calibrated differently so you have to figure out those numbers on your own.
You know you did a proper reflow when the chip starts swimming. On my workstation I gradually increase temp from 150C until it reaches 375C, that's the temperature when I notice the chip starts wiggling.

If this doesn't work you have to reball the chip.
 

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