Hacking Hardware McFly - an RP2040 board compatible with Picofly

jkyoho

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  • CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work
If McFly is only using the middle 2pin as CPU Line for mosfet GATE line, fixing this issue should be fairly simple replacing the FPC connector with a top&bottom contacts NEW connector,instead of bottom only.
 

Saliciae

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If McFly is only using the middle 2pin as CPU Line for mosfet GATE line, fixing this issue should be fairly simple replacing the FPC connector with a top&bottom contacts NEW connector,instead of bottom only.
The Hirose FH34 connector I chose was supposed to be double sided but didn't seem to work, I'll see if I can find another low profile one
 
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Phantomas77

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I'm greatful to Saliciae for giving the chance to test one of his new McFly board. Pleasee pictures below of my install, the board works flawlessly and compared in difficulty level I'd put it on the same level as installing an OLED HWFLY V3/V4 via wire install. I've just literaly finished this like 10 minutes ago, but as I spend time on it I'm sure I'll have more feedback to give. The three main things I could up with straight are:

  • Rotate the solder pads 90 degrees towards the fan, makes wires routing easier and neater for almost any switch install
  • Label the pads from top of the board, I took a picture of the board from beneath and used a reference once its mounted but someone can easily solder the wrong wire to the wrong pad
  • CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work

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Great job! Love to see McFly PicoFlying!!

Question: I remember that @Saliciae made a quite slim board, though did you had to cut the shield of the Lite? With RP2040-zero (no USB no buttons) positioned on the same place the shield needs cutting or there will be a lot of pressure after closing.
 

efini

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Great job! Love to see McFly PicoFlying!!

Question: I remember that @Saliciae made a quite slim board, though did you had to cut the shield of the Lite? With RP2040-zero (no USB no buttons) positioned on the same place the shield needs cutting or there will be a lot of pressure after closing.
I've not put the metal sheet back on yet but i'll update, however from eye inspction it looks like it may not need to be cut.
 
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Saliciae

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Quick browse on LCSC shows all 6 pin 0.5mm pitch double sided connctors wwith a slim height are either the hirose or a knockoff of the hirose, i'm going to fiddle with the board i have to hand and see if i can find out why it wasn't working in both orientations
Post automatically merged:

Pin labels on the top side would make the board about 10-15% wider for no reason, I could put the labels on another snap off section aligned with the pads so it can be snapped off before soldering and used as a guide, it would line up with the pads and register against the connector so it's obvious which way round it went, interested to hear people's opinions on this approach. I'd really like to keep it as small as humanly possible
 
Last edited by Saliciae,
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efini

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Quick browse on LCSC shows all 6 pin 0.5mm pitch double sided connctors wwith a slim height are either the hirose or a knockoff of the hirose, i'm going to fiddle with the board i have to hand and see if i can find out why it wasn't working in both orientations
Post automatically merged:

Pin labels on the top side would make the board about 10-15% wider for no reason, I could put the labels on another snap off section aligned with the pads so it can be snapped off before soldering and used as a guide, it would line up with the pads and register against the connector so it's obvious which way round it went, interested to hear people's opinions on this approach. I'd really like to keep it as small as humanly possible
If adding label on top would increase size then scrap that, would using one letter instead makes differece like on the HWFLY A, C, D, V (for 3.3v) and G for (GND)?
 

Saliciae

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eseldiem

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linuxares

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I'm greatful to Saliciae for giving the chance to test one of his new McFly board. Pleasee pictures below of my install, the board works flawlessly and compared in difficulty level I'd put it on the same level as installing an OLED HWFLY V3/V4 via wire install. I've just literaly finished this like 10 minutes ago, but as I spend time on it I'm sure I'll have more feedback to give. The three main things I could up with straight are:

  • Rotate the solder pads 90 degrees towards the fan, makes wires routing easier and neater for almost any switch install
  • Label the pads from top of the board, I took a picture of the board from beneath and used a reference once its mounted but someone can easily solder the wrong wire to the wrong pad
  • CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work

View attachment 365589

View attachment 365594

View attachment 365595

View attachment 365596

View attachment 365597

View attachment 365590

View attachment 365591

View attachment 365592

View attachment 365593
omg it's so tiny and PURPLE! :D
 
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KarimPolska

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New version is even smaller, waiting on more feedback from the rest of the testers then it'll get any changes needed and released
Is there any chance of ever adding a place for an optional onboard Mosfet? I mean the chip sits very close to the APU anyway and it's worth giving it a try
 
Last edited by KarimPolska,

d.b

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Today i received @Saliciae Mcfly prototype and test fitted in to a v2 with Samsung mmc , one mosfet to cpu (cables can be a lot of shorter , i just wanted to test if it work correct)
The metal shield fits nice with a little bump without any cutting , and the back cover closes without any problem
next days i will test it in an oled

i would like the solder pads be next to the flex cable connector from the right side in order to be more easy install and with short cables when a flex ribbon is used and of course like the other member said i would like the labeling from the top side...

Beside that i believe is a very nice and little board
image_2023-04-24_22-46-40-609.jpg
image_2023-04-24_22-52-21-675.jpg
 

Saliciae

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Thanks for trying it! Labelling from the top side will increase the size of the board which i'm really not keen on, hopefully once the board is released the documentation can be a good substitute. What do you mean by solder pads next to the flex cable connector on the right side? do you want the solder pads and flex to swap positions?
 
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GarnetSunset

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I have a question, how should one position the chip to use the latest (v5 as of now) HWFly ribbon cabble in a switch lite? Or should I go with a different flex cable?

Hwfly-Core-Lite-Oled-v4-V5-V6-Chip-Accessories-CPU-Flex-Cables-No-Include-The-Chip.png_640x640.png


Found the cables here.
Oh and I almost forgot, should I get this as well ? Straight Cable For Lite
Hwfly-Core-Lite-Oled-v4-V5-V6-Chip-Accessories-CPU-Flex-Cables-No-Include-The-Chip.png_640x640.png
I think the HWFLY lite and oled flex cables have the same spacing etc since its the same chip and yep thats the cable
 

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