Hacking Help Please!

[HoosierDaddy]

First of all, I want to initially thank anyone for responding to this situation. I've been researching this for a few days with no solution. Resorting to posting here and hoping someone will be able to help.

Here it goes;

I have 2 DS's here - Both are Mario bundle pack Red DS's..

I have an R4 III card that works fine in 1 DS, but will not load on the other DS. I initially thought the R4 card was a fake (this was before I had the other DS to check) Surprisingly, it booted up fine with no problems. So I figured the problem was with the actual DS itself. Whether it be a connection issue or internal firmware problem.

I checked both firmwares by using the method the guy on youtube posted, to check the color of the screens. Both DS's displayed magenta screens. Which, as I understand, means both are version 4.0 firmwares.

I've tried cleaning the DS Slot 1 with q-tips and rubbing alcohol and by using a can of air. Authentic games work fine, with absolutely NO problems, ONLY the R4 is giving me this problem. Again, I repeat; the other DS and R4 work fine together.

I'm hoping someone can chime in and voice their suggestions as I try to find a solution to this nagging issue. Thanks in advance, and I appreciate you all taking the time to read this.

 

[sgand]

1) The R4 III is a fake.

B) Have you tried formatting the memory card and reinstalling the latest firmware?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

With all due respect to #1, I said it works fine in the other DS. The R4 card can't be a fake if it works in another DS. I stated that in my original post.

Yes, I've formatted the card and done those things. That doesn't make much sense though, considering it works fine in the other DS, as well.

 

[ENDscape]

Just because its fake doesnt mean it wont work. Any R4 (place any name here) is a clone. And maybe try sticking a piece of paper in the other ds because sometimes the metal things dont connect.

 

[Canonbeat234]

First of all, I want to initially thank anyone for responding to this situation. I've been researching this for a few days with no solution. Resorting to posting here and hoping someone will be able to help.

Here it goes;

I have 2 DS's here - Both are Mario bundle pack Red DS's..

I have an R4 III card that works fine in 1 DS, but will not load on the other DS. I initially thought the R4 card was a fake (this was before I had the other DS to check) Surprisingly, it booted up fine with no problems. So I figured the problem was with the actual DS itself. Whether it be a connection issue or internal firmware problem.

I checked both firmwares by using the method the guy on youtube posted, to check the color of the screens. Both DS's displayed magenta screens. Which, as I understand, means both are version 4.0 firmwares.

I've tried cleaning the DS Slot 1 with q-tips and rubbing alcohol and by using a can of air. Authentic games work fine, with absolutely NO problems, ONLY the R4 is giving me this problem. Again, I repeat; the other DS and R4 work fine together.

I'm hoping someone can chime in and voice their suggestions as I try to find a solution to this nagging issue. Thanks in advance, and I appreciate you all taking the time to read this.

Wait you have two DS lites and can't afford decent flashcards?! I don't know what to type but to say that 'YOU SIR ARE FAIL!'

 

[HoosierDaddy]

OK, now we're getting somewhere! If I keep the game pressed down after it clicks, instead of letting go; it comes on and loads fine. If I let go, it freezes and needs to be reset. So the issue is the metal pins aren't connecting fully.

Now... what can I do to make this contact with the pins consistent? Hmm...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

First of all, I want to initially thank anyone for responding to this situation. I've been researching this for a few days with no solution. Resorting to posting here and hoping someone will be able to help.

Here it goes;

I have 2 DS's here - Both are Mario bundle pack Red DS's..

I have an R4 III card that works fine in 1 DS, but will not load on the other DS. I initially thought the R4 card was a fake (this was before I had the other DS to check) Surprisingly, it booted up fine with no problems. So I figured the problem was with the actual DS itself. Whether it be a connection issue or internal firmware problem.

I checked both firmwares by using the method the guy on youtube posted, to check the color of the screens. Both DS's displayed magenta screens. Which, as I understand, means both are version 4.0 firmwares.

I've tried cleaning the DS Slot 1 with q-tips and rubbing alcohol and by using a can of air. Authentic games work fine, with absolutely NO problems, ONLY the R4 is giving me this problem. Again, I repeat; the other DS and R4 work fine together.

I'm hoping someone can chime in and voice their suggestions as I try to find a solution to this nagging issue. Thanks in advance, and I appreciate you all taking the time to read this.

Wait you have two DS lites and can't afford decent flashcards?! I don't know what to type but to say that 'YOU SIR ARE FAIL!'

One isn't mine, it's my nephews and I used it to test to make sure the card was real and good. Thanks for not providing anything of substance though..

 

[leslieliang]

With all due respect to #1, I said it works fine in the other DS. The R4 card can't be a fake if it works in another DS. I stated that in my original post.

Yes, I've formatted the card and done those things. That doesn't make much sense though, considering it works fine in the other DS, as well.

With all due respect, but you are wrong and fail. You can't assume that fake things don't work. Anything besides the R4DS, but branded with under R4, are clones, which means they are fakes. Clones R4s work, in the same way that cloned keys work for a lock, it's not the real thing, but it will unlock a door.

Using the term fake for your product is incorrect because they aren't actually fakes; as long as they named under a different model that is not created by another company, they are real products. For example : A R4 III is a cloned product, but is a real product. It was not created by the R4 Team, but by the R4 III Team (whatever team that is). Any random group can appear and make a product based on an original product and call it a different name.

A fake is a product that carries the model of a certain product, but is not made by the creator of that model. For example : You have a product named R4DS, but the casing, packaging, and product is different from the original R4DS; that is a fake.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I'm referring to fake as in something that doesn't work and isn't operable.

I've determined the reason this isn't working is because of the faulty pin connection, as evident in my previous post. Trying to determine what can be done now, to have this connection consistent without opening up the DS, etc..

 

[HoosierDaddy]

so upon further inspection, you can clearly tell that the card fits into the slot much better on the one that works obviously. there's a bit of a gap between the top of the card and the top of the actual DS. On the one that doesn't work, it's nearly sitting flush with the top of the DS.

It's clearly a manufactures problem with the assembly, I guess I'll resort to exchanging it and hope for no problems during the process and the next one I get will be right.

 

[gokuguy]

I have concluded, that the actual ds slot-1 for ds carts is a bit lower in the new ds' than the older ds lites were. My brother got a new model of the Cobalt Black DSL a few days ago, & we tried R4 on his. It works fine, but i noticed something with the cart. It was maybe a millimeter shorter than the top of the ds cart slot!!! By pics online & estimation on the actual slot, i found out that the newer models don't have a larger slot, but the slot is installed lower than the original models were. Not sure why this is, but most likely an attempt from Nintendo to stop flash cards from working without jacking normal gameplay or firmware installed in it.

 

[a2h]

I'm referring to fake as in something that doesn't work and isn't operable.

I've determined the reason this isn't working is because of the faulty pin connection, as evident in my previous post. Trying to determine what can be done now, to have this connection consistent without opening up the DS, etc..

fake: to pretend; simulate

Did you pass English?