Hacking Fresh installed HWFLY OLED. Hekate show Battery 0%, 0 amp current

jjloki222

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I've installed picofly on a new working OLED.

I was very careful to protect every solder point to prevent shorts etc.

After installation, I was so surprised to find that although I can boot into hekate but it shows the battery is 0% and 0 amp current.

I suspected max 17050 is dead and did two replacements with no luck to recover. (not sure the new chip is ok or not).

The strange thing is why the installation can cause 17050 dead? so strange. anyone had the same issue?


in hekate, it shows like something below:
1697605586179.png
 

jjloki222

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I had same issue and it was a trace cut around the D point.

I wasn't able to boot HOS too.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! How do you know it was the trace cut around the D point? Would you mind sharing more details about the issue?
 

jjloki222

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Look around the area, the traces are almost visible. Use the phone camera if you don't have microscope.

Thanks for reply. I checked the trace around the CPU upper part area around point D. The traces look good to me. I have uploaded the picture. I also attached an OLED naked board picture with it just for easy comparison.
1697618796087.png

1697618820551.png

Post automatically merged:

Thanks for sharing your experiences. Unfortunately, my case seems a bit different from yours. The traces in that area on my OLED boards seems OK to me.
Thanks for reply. I checked the trace around the CPU upper part area around point D. The traces look good to me. I have uploaded the picture. I also attached an OLED naked board picture with it just for easy comparison.
1697618796087.png

1697618820551.png
Post automatically merged:

Luckily, my colleague juanvlc was able to fix it
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Unfortunately, my case seems a bit different from yours. The traces in that area on my OLED boards seems OK to me.
 
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jjloki222

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update!

finally, I found the scl/sda trace around the CPU is cut! it's cut by my multimeter probes when measuring the inductor beside it! whew! no wonder CPU can't talk to MAX10705 for battery and current info!

1697727670184.png
 
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jjloki222

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And fix that trace solve the issue?
I didn't get the chance to fix it yet. Theoretically, I would say yes since the line is actually SCL/SDA trace for on-board chip communication including MAX10705 which is in charge of current/battery sensing.

I will keep update the result once I get the chance to fix it.
 

jjloki222

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I didn't get the chance to fix it yet. Theoretically, I would say yes since the line is actually SCL/SDA trace for on-board chip communication including MAX10705 which is in charge of current/battery sensing.

I will keep update the result once I get the chance to fix it.
hello, progress update:

as expected, fixing the line did fix the issue!

1697976961216.png


1697976985561.png
 

Quezacotl

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Hello!

I have same exact problem. I have installed many chips on OLEDs, and being extra careful.
THe Switch was fully working with no problems.
This time i attempted the kamikaze method next to CMD point. First time doing it, and success. Booting nearly instantly.
I haven't disassembled to show the backside, so it's impossible to have scratches there. Everything happening on top side.

But yea, Only thing that boots is Hekate. With battery and temperature showing 0.
As i gathered, this is most likely to do with SCL/SDA lines cut, like OP had.
I have tried finding a cut or shorted trace with no success.

Only thing i can now think of if the grinding dust have entered below some BGA chip shorting lines, but that is so low change since i have used alcohol to tie the dust in place while grinding and wiping it away actively.
I also took pictures of the kamikaze install, and there's no way that it is shorting or cutting adjacent lines. (i applied soldermask twice before soldering).

The two ICs responsible of battery and charging are okay i think. When i measure the battery and plug USB in, it appears to be charging. And since temperature is also missing, it cannot be temp and battery IC broken at same time.
I tested continuity of SDA/SCL lines between Realtek chip and BQ24193.

Anything else that could make this effect or to troubleshoot?
 

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jkyoho

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Hello!

I have same exact problem. I have installed many chips on OLEDs, and being extra careful.
THe Switch was fully working with no problems.
This time i attempted the kamikaze method next to CMD point. First time doing it, and success. Booting nearly instantly.
I haven't disassembled to show the backside, so it's impossible to have scratches there. Everything happening on top side.

But yea, Only thing that boots is Hekate. With battery and temperature showing 0.
As i gathered, this is most likely to do with SCL/SDA lines cut, like OP had.
I have tried finding a cut or shorted trace with no success.

Only thing i can now think of if the grinding dust have entered below some BGA chip shorting lines, but that is so low change since i have used alcohol to tie the dust in place while grinding and wiping it away actively.
I also took pictures of the kamikaze install, and there's no way that it is shorting or cutting adjacent lines. (i applied soldermask twice before soldering).

The two ICs responsible of battery and charging are okay i think. When i measure the battery and plug USB in, it appears to be charging. And since temperature is also missing, it cannot be temp and battery IC broken at same time.
I tested continuity of SDA/SCL lines between Realtek chip and BQ24193.

Anything else that could make this effect or to troubleshoot?
Show pictures around the cpu shield instead of the dat0 point
 

Quezacotl

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Show pictures around the cpu shield instead of the dat0 point
Here from 3 sides.
Initially i cut only the needed like 1cm of shield wall to get access to the CLK point, but took more away to see better.
There's one cut-looking trace in middle of first picture. I scratched it to see if it's cut but it's not.

I tried also flushing the board with ipa, the top side, and draining towards dat point in hopes it could bring something from under the BGA chips. But no luck.
I desoldered the modchip, but as i guessed, problem is not the modchip. (Picofly)
Post automatically merged:

Biggest and only discovery so far. I measured SCL and SDA line resistances from BQ24193. Both about 1,8k, and on working Switches they are 13k. (one working and one broken for parts for reference).
Could that chip break so easily? Note that i didn't plug USB at all between before modding and Hekate screen.
If the chip is broken bringing the datalines down, and temp IC has shared line, it could make this effect?
 

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