The red circled area, used to be a pad there ("D" on the second image). This is for the Xeno chip mod. I'm gonna try one of the alternate points, but just wondering if I might need to do the alternate method on the backside of the PCB.
For those with Gamecube modding experience... did I wreck one of the traces on my PCB? (Xeno chip install)
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GC stuff at this level is not my forte such that I know alt pins off the top of my head.
That said simple visual observation has that it looks like a simple test pad not connected to anything beyond it. To that end you have the remains the of the trace, the via and what at this point is your most likely target in the little pad next to the other lead you have there/above the n on the mask/that is also tinned in the picture with the mod chip, plus if push comes to shove wherever that via winds up coming out.
Alternatively figure out what the pin on the chip is doing and find a replacement for that (hopefully it is something boring and basic like voltage source or ground, I can't tell what it is connected to from the picture though).
That said simple visual observation has that it looks like a simple test pad not connected to anything beyond it. To that end you have the remains the of the trace, the via and what at this point is your most likely target in the little pad next to the other lead you have there/above the n on the mask/that is also tinned in the picture with the mod chip, plus if push comes to shove wherever that via winds up coming out.
Alternatively figure out what the pin on the chip is doing and find a replacement for that (hopefully it is something boring and basic like voltage source or ground, I can't tell what it is connected to from the picture though).
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If I were you I would do some reflowing on those wire points, they look pretty jank and could cause cold (broken) joints. A contact point that you are soldering should flow naturally and look smooth, anything like that might have uncertainty with consistent or proper bonding.
Also what kind of gauge wire are you using with this?
Also what kind of gauge wire are you using with this?
Thanks, here is a picture I found of alternate points that I was trying out:
That being said I butchered many of the pads and lifted up a lot of them. Including the power one I'm pretty sure which DOESN'T have an alternate point according to the image above. So I'm probably going to have to resort do doing the flipside wired install (GAMECUBE XENO MOD DONE DIFFERENTLY) even though that looks like it's pretty challenging too.
For some reason I'm having trouble tinning the via, I think maybe my iron isn't hot enough? The solder just keeps sticking to the iron but not going onto the via.
I agree I'm brand new to soldering so these connections are pretty poor. I should practice on test boards more until I get more comfortable with it and learn good technique. I appreciate that feedback.
I was using 24 AWG in the picture but I'm pretty sure I need to switch to 28 or even 30 especially if I do the alternate install on the backside of the PCB.
I'm using this rosin liquid no-clean flux pen but I haven't been having great results. Do you have any suggestions for a better flux, maybe the jelly type or something?
I did not know you had troubled the chip. In that case looking at that picture 4 and the xeno gc part under 5 appear to be connected via the 102 (in surface mount stuff that means 10 and 2 0's https://www.instructables.com/Reading-Surface-Mount-Resistor-codes/ ) in presumably a pull down/pull up arrangement. You might need to replicate that.
I also can't see 3 on that but what is there has the telltale brown of a lifted pad for part of that.
I also don't like the look of the connection of the brown I am guessing that is a ferrite bead but might be a capacitor across from 3 on that.
Ferrite beads are available in many places -- they are weak inductors usually there to stop noise. You might even find it works if you bridge it out as noise might only be present in certain models of GC or setups.
If it is a capacitor then hopefully there are some numbers as you want to know what it is before you start messing with replacements.
Soldering to vias and traces is a pain. Scrape it a bit with a scalpel if you can.
I also can't see 3 on that but what is there has the telltale brown of a lifted pad for part of that.
I also don't like the look of the connection of the brown I am guessing that is a ferrite bead but might be a capacitor across from 3 on that.
Ferrite beads are available in many places -- they are weak inductors usually there to stop noise. You might even find it works if you bridge it out as noise might only be present in certain models of GC or setups.
If it is a capacitor then hopefully there are some numbers as you want to know what it is before you start messing with replacements.
Soldering to vias and traces is a pain. Scrape it a bit with a scalpel if you can.
To be honest, all that stuff is way beyond my current skill level. I might just be better off getting a replacement PCB and trying again with the traditional wired install. Before doing that though I might try the backside of the PCB even though that's working with significantly smaller components. Who knows though, maybe I can get it to work without needing to go that route.
Also I just wanted to say thanks so much for all your input, super helpful stuff. Posts like yours are why I love this community so much.
The brown component to the left of the MCU is a decoupling capacitor and it's wired directly across the power line - the pad you have marked as "4" (I.E. power) goes to the top of it and the one you have marked as 6 (I.E. Ground) goes to the bottom - you can just solder the wires directly across the cap. You want to be a little careful to avoid overheating the cap too much.
Interesting. Since you all are being so helpful, I think it might be prudent for me to include a screenshot of the current state of my PCB. Warning: it's not pretty. Maybe someone can comment if this is even usable anymore?
Attachments
For example, a side by side, using these alternate points/pads/via, do you think this could still work or do you think I wrecked some of the traces? I'm still new at this so I don't know if lifted pads = or /= broken traces.
Attachments
Last edited by jdsteel7,
OMgosh guys I think I got it!! My Xeno chip flash red and then I think orange/amber (I'm color impaired but I'm pretty sure that's what happened). Here's a pic of my hack job:
I know it's not pretty, and I am a little concerned about the connections over time, but I was about to just break down and pay $80 for a copy of windwaker or something to do the exploit!
Thanks for your help and encouragement! Now I'm just gonna be reaaalll careful adjusting the pot to not mess it up when I'm this close lol
Edit: After cranking the pot down ALL the way down to 130.... I finally got Swiss to boot up
SO happy right now that I managed to get everything to work! Thanks again everyone for all the help and encouragement 
I know it's not pretty, and I am a little concerned about the connections over time, but I was about to just break down and pay $80 for a copy of windwaker or something to do the exploit!
Thanks for your help and encouragement! Now I'm just gonna be reaaalll careful adjusting the pot to not mess it up when I'm this close lol
Edit: After cranking the pot down ALL the way down to 130.... I finally got Swiss to boot up
SO happy right now that I managed to get everything to work! Thanks again everyone for all the help and encouragement
Last edited by jdsteel7,
OK, looks like you worked it out - basically you have lost enough of the pads that you need to solder the wires to the vias, For future reference, thinner wires would be a good idea because they reduce the risk of ripping the pads off.
Yup, I finally realized that was pretty much my only option. I actually learned quite a bit about soldering doing this- although I definitely wouldn't recommend it as someone's first or second-ever project (it as my second)
Good suggestion about the wires! Yeah 24 AWG is too thick I think for this kind of work.
Yup, I finally realized that was pretty much my only option. I actually learned quite a bit about soldering doing this- although I definitely wouldn't recommend it as someone's first or second-ever project (it as my second)
Good suggestion about the wires! Yeah 24 AWG is too thick I think for this kind of work.
I've always regarded QSBs as being something of a trap for the inexperienced. Yes, they allow you to connect things quickly if you have a fair bit of soldering practice, but they are also very easy to mess up and quite hard to remove cleanly if you aren't so experienced with soldering.
I've seen this quite a bit recently with Xstation for the PSX - people tend to assume that because it's using a QSB it's a good beginner project and end up damaging the QSB the mainboard or both.
I can attest to the easy to mess things up part! In hindsight I would have at least got some cheap practice boards from Amazon or something to try and learn the basics before diving in headfirst.
If it wasn't for the chip shortage, the GC loader is a great plug and play option. But it's been super difficult to get, not to mention a little pricy (~$90) vs $5-$10 for a Xeno chip. So both of those reasons are why I went the modchip route instead.
GC Loader is arguably the best solution and more future-proof than the aging optical drives.
Nevertheless a fun project to solder in a modchip. Feels satisfying.
Soldering must be practiced – like everything. Using good flux is gonna help a lot (I didn't want to believe it at first since most solder comes with a bit of flux inside). Gain some confidence with practice boards or with scrap electronics. Everybody can do basic soldering – I can do it with my movement disorders (shaking hands).
I often saw the recommendation to do the six wire installation for a XenoGC rather than directly to the drive board without wires – and can agree with that. Much easier to verify, measure and correct mistakes.
Not thinking of this I installed a XenoGC with zero wires (thankfully it works). Next time it will be the six wire method.
Nice to hear your XenoGC is working now. I recommend setting Swiss to turn off the drive after booting and only use SD2SP2 or SD-Gecko for playing games to save the drive from wear.
If you're doing something as a hobbyist, then you should try and make it as easy as possible. If you are making electronics commercially, then you basically end up on a path where you have to use RoHS solder (because you can't ship stuff to a lot of the world if you don't), use the minimum amount of the lowest activity flux you can get away with, don't use halogen based activators, etc. You end up with a stupidly narrow process window, but once you get it all dialed in it's fine.
If you are going this stuff as a hobby then you would have to be a masochist to use the same rules - so you should use SnPb solder, and Peter North levels of the highly active flux to get the widest process window you can - sure, you're going to have to clear the board off afterwards, but if you are making stuff in fairly small quantities then that's not going to take long and you will probably end up saving time overall because you don't need to do any rework.
First thing to say is,WHY the hell you don't practice your skills first on an old electronic board before you solder in a working game console.
Second:use some decent flux,buy a solder bold or station,they don''t have to be expensive,but you need to control the temps.
I soldered my own dcdigital-ps1digital-n64digital-gcloader-neo geo sdloader-recapping and many other mods to my own consoles,but i watched video's from guys that are pro's on youtube and tryed FIRST on old boards that are broken,so you can learn techniques and the risk to break something become smaller.
Also use smaller gauges wires if possible and keep the wires in lenght,not needed to make them too long.
But first practice on some old board,think thats a wise decision,you will see your results becomes better and better.
Second:use some decent flux,buy a solder bold or station,they don''t have to be expensive,but you need to control the temps.
I soldered my own dcdigital-ps1digital-n64digital-gcloader-neo geo sdloader-recapping and many other mods to my own consoles,but i watched video's from guys that are pro's on youtube and tryed FIRST on old boards that are broken,so you can learn techniques and the risk to break something become smaller.
Also use smaller gauges wires if possible and keep the wires in lenght,not needed to make them too long.
But first practice on some old board,think thats a wise decision,you will see your results becomes better and better.
