Hardware Exchanging thermal paste?

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So I removed the copper shim/tape and applied Kryonaut after removing the old thermal paste. I also put 0.5mm thermal pads on the ram chips on the inside of the shield and on the outside next to the heatpipe.

Now my switch stutters slightly undocked and severely stutters when docked. This happens even after no use on a cold boot. Did I put too much thermal paste or not enough?


have you monitored your temperatures with liek tesla overlay? I mean that would be the easiest indicator if you know your cpu is throttling or not.
 
The copper sticker is put on the metal shield that you took off it should not have been taken off of that to begin with so hell yes put the copper sticker back on that is a must unless you made or ordered something better to use. all you had to do was remove the metal plate that had that copper sticker on it then taken the past off under it and on top of it replaced the past (with better stuff) then put the cover back on then the heat pipe then the past on the heat pipe then the big metal backing.
the copper shield is a complete waste of space. i removed mine and put a ic diamond graphite pad on instead and my switch dropped about 7c.
 
have you monitored your temperatures with liek tesla overlay? I mean that would be the easiest indicator if you know your cpu is throttling or not.
No I didn't but when I mean severely stutters, it's like playing at half speed when I play animal crossing.
 
the copper shield is a complete waste of space. i removed mine and put a ic diamond graphite pad on instead and my switch dropped about 7c.
I know the graphite pad is supposed to be used without thermal paste but did you use any at all between the heatsink and the SoC? Also, did you put any thermal paste between the heatsink and the outer metal shield?
 
Yeah it's probably overkill but I saw people doing that in this thread and elsewhere. That wouldn't make my switch stutter though right?


Need verification but I am guessing that, the thermal pad is not thick enough to reach the IEM casing on the RAM chip, thus it could be building up heat, you need to ensure that it contacts the IEM casing if not the heat will build up. From what I understand, at least 1.0 mm thickness or 1.5mm then is sufficient.
 
Need verification but I am guessing that, the thermal pad is not thick enough to reach the IEM casing on the RAM chip, thus it could be building up heat, you need to ensure that it contacts the IEM casing if not the heat will build up. From what I understand, at least 1.0 mm thickness or 1.5mm then is sufficient.
I've since removed the thermal pads and now the only difference from stock is that I removed the copper shim and used kryonaut. It just refuses to work docked and registers inputs slow, gets stuck on the home screen, and in-game in animal crossing it's like moving in slow motion.
 
I've since removed the thermal pads and now the only difference from stock is that I removed the copper shim and used kryonaut. It just refuses to work docked and registers inputs slow, gets stuck on the home screen, and in-game in animal crossing it's like moving in slow motion.

This sounds really like there is a damage on the board. I think it will be better if you can share images here. For people who have the experience to advise.
 
This sounds really like there is a damage on the board. I think it will be better if you can share images here. For people who have the experience to advise.
That's what I fear. Here are the images.


5i1zlGX
 
Last edited by Destinykid,
Well I plan on using liquid metal on the GPU/CPU, Arctic Silver between the cooper sheet and the heat pipe plate, and Arctic Silver between the heat pipe plate and the metal casing. However there are several other places between the metal casing and the internal components where there are thermal pads that I'm going to replace that I don't believe thermal paste would be appropriate; thus thermal pads. Just wasn't sure what size, I would hate to have bulging.
Dangerous mix tho
 
Need their reply. The processor seems ok, no damage or scratches, the RAM looks burned to me...

What makes you say that? Is it because it's a little discolored? I think that's from the IPA because I just opened it and the writing is still legible compared to the picture. I'm not sure why it looks flaky. Maybe the light was at an able to the textured component?

But either way, thanks for taking a look!
 
What makes you say that? Is it because it's a little discolored? I think that's from the IPA because I just opened it and the writing is still legible compared to the picture. I'm not sure why it looks flaky. Maybe the light was at an able to the textured component?

But either way, thanks for taking a look!

It looks faded and I was thinking it might have been burned but if that is what you have done then maybe my worries are just extras.

Any tips on removing the shield? or I should just ignore it? Pull off the copper tape and direct contact?
 
I use ic graphite pad to repalce the copper shield but dont put anything between heatsink and metal shield i notice my switch screen and backplate seem cooler but area around the heatsink still a little warm i want heat spead around the metal shield not just concentrate around the heatsink
Do i need to apply some paste on top of heatsink?
 
Last edited by MaximusR,
It looks faded and I was thinking it might have been burned but if that is what you have done then maybe my worries are just extras.

Any tips on removing the shield? or I should just ignore it? Pull off the copper tape and direct contact?
This is my experience but I messed up my switch pretty bad. It will no longer dock without stuttering a ton. I'd say just leave the copper shield and repaste. If you really really want to get in the shield, then just get a flat pry tool and gently pry it up. There are little clips that hold it in. Be careful of the components near the shield.
 
This is my experience but I messed up my switch pretty bad. It will no longer dock without stuttering a ton. I'd say just leave the copper shield and repaste. If you really really want to get in the shield, then just get a flat pry tool and gently pry it up. There are little clips that hold it in. Be careful of the components near the shield.

Thanks. I totally dropped the idea. Is too tight on mine, I had slightly bent it. Totally gave up. Just do the copper shield removal and the thermal pad Only.
 
Last edited by N3w_Typ3,
Hey guys so what's the recommendation on thermal pads for the last time lol. Has anyone done it recently?
 
Hey guys so what's the recommendation on thermal pads for the last time lol. Has anyone done it recently?

Yeah, I wish there was some ultimate guide to improving the thermals as the information seems a bit fragmented. I’m going to replace my battery soon, and I may as well change the thermal paste while I’m in the process. I have MX-4 at hand but I’ve no idea as to what thermal pads are best and at what sizes. Also, is it okay to remove the copper/metal shim?
 
Last edited by waqster,
I personally think cooling the ram will have no benefit since it is not downclocking due to temps. I only do thermal paste and copper shim removal on any switch I do. The few I did for myself and friends of mine use Carbonaut thermal pads for the CPU so they are paste free and will not dry out over time.
 
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